Reply With Quotejust look it up on you tube how to change a savage barrel
I have a Savage 116 in .270 and am in the process of fitting it to a Boyds stock. The biggest reason for taking it out of the tupperware was the way it was shooting... This was my most accurate rifle, a real tackdriver. This all changed last season and I tried all of my tricks. I have torque wrenches and set everything perfect, tried some different torques, replaced scope mounts with Zee Mounts, cleaned barrel, shot it dirty....NOTHING WORKED!!
I couldn't figure it out. Well now I think I know what it was - a badly bent recoil lug. I'm glad I noticed it prior to bedding it to this stock.
When I have some free time this week I intend to replace the damaged recoil lug with a lug from SSS. I have a Barrel and Action Wrench. I have a vice and wood blocks. I have go-no go gauges.
Since I'm not in a hurry I sprayed some crawl on the barrel nuts and barrel threads.
Can any of you give me pointers or links to threads detailing this procedure? The how too's seem to have disappeared and I want to hear from some of you with experience....
Thanks!!
just look it up on you tube how to change a savage barrel
I'd guessing the recoil lug is factory bent and isn't the cause of your problems.
Duh, just watched it, looks very easy. Will the SSS recoil lug need any additional fitting or is it as simple as swapping it out with the factory lug?
Maybe, we'll see, could be something else. I saw something I didn't like and decided to upgrade....been wanting to use my barrel tools anyway.
What else should I look at? Using the same loads as always...
Comparing my lug to a few others this thing is really bent...Once I get it apart I can check the dimensions and see how bad it is and post pics so you guys can tell me if its normal or excessive....I vote the latter.
from what i have read the the stock ones arnt that great but to be bent where you can see it is not from the factory
When you replace it, you will need to re-headspace your barrel. If you don't get it exactly the same as it was before (doubtful, unless you make an index mark on the barrel and receiver) your headspace will change slightly, and your pet loads may or may not still be the most accurate because of that.
I'm not saying don't do it, just reminding you that when you change one component, it affects other variables.
Even with the factory recoil lugs...it would be very hard to bend them.
Thomae index marks won't work in this case as he is going to change the recoil lug and i would bet good money they are not going to measure the same thickness down to the thousandth of an inch unless you are wanting a mark on the threads to index off of, which is also doubtful as the barrel is most likely going to move a bit when the nut is broken loose.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Your rollstamp isn't likely to time right even when you use the same barrel and lug let alone a different lug.
I've got half a dozen or so factory lugs sitting here that disagree with you. The old ones with the indexing notch punched through part of the ID of the lug seem worse but even the ones with the smaller rectangular punch are bent.Originally Posted by M.O.A.
Why would the index marks not work? The nut is essentially an adjustable shoulder, it doesn't care about recoil lug thickness.
I wasn't trying to talk you out of replacing the lug, just stating that I don't think it's the problem. You mention changing the scope base...how about the scope? Same load as always...no new lots of components?
What kind of scope is it? Are you sure the front screw isnt bottomed out and really isnt tight and the block is actually moving slightly.This is a common mistake we have all done.If it is,you will have to grind offf a little at a time till it screws down tight.
Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!
+1
The recoil lug has no effect on the barrel index. Spin the barrel off- swap the lugs- barrel back on to the same spot. Sights straight up, roll marks aligned, GTG.
Headspace will be the same. I'd check it with a gauge just for peace of mind, but not out of necessity.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
ok maybe it can be i just wouldnt think it would but any thing that get punched likey to get bent i guess ;-}
Yes, you will need to rehead space your barrel as the SSS recoil lug is thicker than the factory one. In my opinion you'd be better off with a Northlander recoil lug. Of the ones I have of both, I've found the Northlander lug thicker and ground truer than the SSS. Quality means something to me. I own 2-SSS recoil lugs and 5-Northlander recoil lugs.
Last edited by teele1; 08-27-2012 at 06:30 AM.
6CM
Guys, I made a timber pointer about 40mm wide with a slot in the back end. The picatinny rail, still mounted to the action, slides perfectly (a little tightish) into the slot. The pointer extends over the barrel nut to the barrel and I have a reference mark on the barrel.
The pointer goes on the action, the barrel, nut and lug are wound on until the pointer and mark lines up, the nuts done up as firmly as the fingers will allow (with anti seize on the threads), the pointers removed, barrel nut tightened and pointer re-installed to confirm the barrel hasn't moved with tightening.
Its basic, but the basic ideas are often the best. It allows perfect barrel re-setting. I still use headspace gauges every time during this process.
My pointer fits all 3 actions as they all have Ken Farell rails on them.
I'll get a pic up if anyones keen to see.
To use witness marks you need two marks on the barrel. One for depth and one to line up to mark on receiver. Will look like a T on the barrel. With the thicker lug you cover the mark for depth thereby changing your head-space. The pointer DenisA has made up would work due to being able to reference on the witness marks away from the barrel nut therefore not covering the mark used for head-space. Remember there are two marks. One to line up on and the other to check head-space. Keeps you from going a turn short or a turn long.
"And you shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free.” John 8:32 (New King James Version)
Thank you for all of the reply's...I had to go and stay with my grandmother to ensure her safety through Hurricane Isaac (She uses Oxygen) ...sorry for the delayed response. Of course, she did not have internet.
The lug may have been bent from the factory, but I am a tinkerer and this is fun for me.
This weekend I'll swap it out and I can measure how far out it is and post some pics.
It may be the way it was stamped, but I have a reason for thinking that I may have bent it....
Thanks again for the help.
Here is a good write up:
http://www.westernshooter.com/2009/1...age-rifle.html
The best index mark I had in a barrel was when I used the long screw in the front base. It distorted the threads enough that it works great. If I look thru that hole I can clearly see it.
Speedy, I dont know what type vise you are using but if you can use a separate vise on the action and the barrel (clamping the barrel in wood) you can do the replacement without moving the barrel.
Either way, double check with the gauges for piece of mind.
Thickness of the recoil lug doesn't change how far the barrel should screw into the action. A witness mark will do fine as long as the mark isn't obscured by the recoil lug or barrel nut. I've used a magic marker to draw a line down the bottom of the barrel to line up with a mark on the action. Use a good straight edge ruler and you will be fine.
it would be interesting to see some pics of the bent recoil lug. can you post some?
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