in this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqeXN...feature=relmfu the gentleman appears to be able to reassemble his bolt with the firing pin cocked. who else can catch threads and about how many thread can you catch? i can see an advantage if i do the same but want to make sure i am not over looking anything.
thank you for your time.
I am sure that I have been able to reassemble my bolt on at least one of my rifles while the bolt was cocked, but I don't think I can on all of them.
How may threads do I catch? Not sure. I catch some and then use an allen wrench of screwdriver (for the slotted BAS) to complete the assembly.
thank you for the response. in the coming days i will likely remove more material from my bas so that i can catch a thread or two.
I am not sure I understand what you are trying to do. Why do you want to remove material? I don't think that is necessary at all. My BASes are stock (perhaps polished) and I think whether or not I can reassemble in the cocked position depends more on the strength of the firing pin spring. I have no problem catching a few threads in the uncocked position, then cocking it by pushing the cocking pin on the edge of my workbench. Once cocked, I finish tightening the BAS and insert the bolt into the rifle.
Mine seem to be about 1/2 and 1/2. Most that do, will catch by 2 threads or so. I had one that would not catch any, but when you screwed in the BAS, there were false threads cut between the actual threads, so when you screwed it in if it caught the false threads it would go about 4 turns and then act like it was cross threaded. If you backed it and then tried again it would catch in a different place and go all the way like nothing was wrong. Otherwise bolt worked fine and had plenty of engagement otherwise.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
No need to catch a thread on a cocked action.
Just drop the FP into the uncocked/fired position, start your threads and then cock the action with your fingers before screwing the BAS all the way home.
Yah, like Thomae said!
Bingo! thats the way I do it as well. If you do enough of them with the bolt cocked you will wind up stripping the threads on one, then you'll do it this way from then on........Originally Posted by nsaqam
Uncock the bolt, start the BAS and turn it in a turn or so, then you should still be able to cock the bolt with your bare hands(or fingers i guess). Then thread in the rest of the way and tighten with the proper wrench. Simple.
I would not remove any material off the bottom of the BAS unless you are installing a bolt lift kit in it. They are that length for a reason.
”I have a very strict gun control policy: if there’s a gun around, I want to be in control of it.”
~Clint Eastwood
Please do not do that, you gun was designed like it is for a reason, there is nothing to gain by reworking your BAS. The only reason you should ever cut down a BAS is if you place a gunk button (AKA bolt lift kit.) in the back, and that is to put things back to the way they was. (Removing the amount of space the gunk button increased.) On the older actions you could start the BAS without de-cocking the bolt, with the newer action you have to decock the bolt to start the threads. One thing to keep in mind is hard to keep things true with handtools. With that all said, when you cut the BAS you cange things, just leave it alone. Beside how often do you take the bolt appart ?
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