Reply With QuoteAnother quick and easy solution is to get an EGW base and just slide the scope back a notch or two. I have short arms and this method works well for me.
I bought a 16FCSS from Bud's Gun Shop after a long search for the rifle I'll grab when I'm out the back door in a dead run. The Weather Warrior has proved to be everything I want in a bug-out rifle, but I was certain that I'd read that its LOP is 13.5 inches. Technically, I need a 13.00-13.25 inch LOP, but I figured I could make do with 13.5. However, with the Savage PAD the rifle's LOP is closer to 14.00, and it's down right uncomfortable to acquire and hold the proper eye relief for my scope. While there a lot of posts on various forums about replacing the PAD, I've not read that anyone has actually done it. Savage customer service couldn't help. Is there anyone on SS who could point me in the right direction?
Another quick and easy solution is to get an EGW base and just slide the scope back a notch or two. I have short arms and this method works well for me.
I'd seen one of those advertised for 16s but didn't know if they offered a sufficient range of adjustment, even if mounted backwards with the tongue towards the butt. BTW, I once had an Oldsmobile 442 that just begged to be stomped.Originally Posted by stomp442
What I'm talking about is a picatinny rail. Has lots of room for adjustment forward and back. Between adjusting your ring location on the scope and the notches on the base you should be able to adjust eye relief to a comfortable level.
Last edited by stomp442; 08-09-2012 at 10:13 AM.
Ordered one from Midway yesterday afternoon. Thanks again for the heads up.
http://www.egwguns.com/savage/
This is what im talking about. I love these and have them on just about every rifle I have.
Well...
Let's make sure you're solving the right problem. If the LOP is too long for you, just moving the scope back to get proper eye relief won't fix all the other LOP problems. The main purpose of LOP is to be able to shoulder the firearm accurately and reliably, to be able to achieve a consistent trigger reach, and to be able to operate the firearm controls, for all shooting positions. Once you get proper LOP and cheek weld, THEN you move the scope around to where it needs to be - which the rails certainly may help with.
If the LOP is too long for you, the butt of the gun will hang up on your shoulder when you try to mount it quickly, especially from a sitting position. If it's way too long for you, you won't be able to lift the bolt easily to cycle the action. If it's impossibly long for you, you won't be able to get a consistent grip and trigger pad reach. None of those things will be fixed by moving the scope back.
I have the opposite problem - I need a 14.25 - 14.5 LOP (something about the length of my forearm vs my upper arm). If I shoot a typical 13.5 LOP stock my cheek weld and eye position are all over the map. I spend way too much time fitting stock spacers to my rifles. :)
KeS
Last edited by kevin_stevens; 08-28-2012 at 03:56 AM.
BTW - those EGW rails - anyone used them with express sights? And being aluminum, do you think they'd stand up to a 375 H&H recoil over time, for QR rings? I'm trying to figure out a setup for my new Alaskan Guide.
Tx.
KeS
kevin for a 375 h&h i would use steal rings and mounts like leupold one peice mount with dove tail twist in rings. but thats just me
kinda like this
http://media.midwayusa.com/productim...829/829187.jpg
Yeah, the problem is its a dangerous game rifle and I want to be able to get the scope off if required. (Otherwise I'd put on a DNZ Game Reaper one-piece base and ring setup, which I love.) I'd like to go with a Warne QR system and two-piece steel bases (blind magazine so I don't want a one-piece base getting in the way). But I'm not sure that with the long action I'm going to have enough scope tube length to play with, so I might need a rail system. All the rails I've seen are aluminum, probably of necessity so they won't weigh a ton. I'm still waiting to receive the rifle, so I'm playing with ideas at this point.
Thanks for your thoughts, and sorry for hijacking this thread. I'll start another one about my scope mount issues.
KeS
Edit: Go here if you want to help me with my rings'n'things -
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...express-sights
Last edited by kevin_stevens; 08-28-2012 at 04:41 AM.
Kevin, I posted to your thread re: the base and mount I use on my DGR.
The solution is simple, Cut down the stock. I did a little lightweight compact carbine build a while back and had no problem cutting about 2" from the butt and re fitting the recoil pad. You may have to relocate the rear sling swivel though, I did.
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
is there no drop in replacement pad for the P.A.D. on the accustock? seems like it would be easy enough to remove the PAD and install something shorter and less like a marshmallow
Wanted to do a little revive of this thread bc I think it's a good question. My biggest gripe about my accustock savages is that the LOP is too long due to the enormous PAD. Seems like it would be easy enough for an aftermarket vendor to offer a less squishy drop-in pad that's a 1/2 inch shorter or so, but does anyone do it?
There are many harder and thinner recoil pads, however the chances are that you will have to grind them to fit.
I know I'm bumping an old thread but does anyone know if they make a shorter pad for the weather warrior stock? I don't care if it's a solid one, the recoil don't bother me from my .308. Even if I had to grind one to make it fit that's no problem. I just need one that bolts up.
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