swap barrels.

[BigHorn]

I am wondering, on the 10/110 can the barrel be threaded in to make "snug" contact with the bolt head, then head space set accordingly, or is there a prescribed amount of "clearance" that is needed. I have not had a Savage apart recently (rebarreled many 100's of rifles over the last 30yrs) and am about too.

My thinking on this would be in swapping barrels, they can be run in to make contact, tighten the nut and pull the trigger. Makes sense to me, but so do lots of wrong things.

[darkker]

CAN you get some interferance fit? Yes, but you need to get a reamer, and re-do the chamber for a deeper setting.

The theory of operation at play here is that the bolt baffle(piece behind the bolt head) plugs the escape route and the 2 ports on the side of the reciever vent the gas, if there is a case seperation. Then there is also the rear baffle to add another layer of facial protection.

I have blown-up cases on: Ruger's, Savage's, Marlin's, Remy's. The Savage's seem to keep things the most pleasant when a seperation occurs. I've had a 270 & 264WM come apart, with little fanfare.

[Blue Avenger]

If it touches, It drags and makes the bolt operates harder.

[tinkerer]

Do it the easy way, use a once fired empty case and run the barrel down to touch that and tighten the barrel down. Its a whole lot closer. Obviously a go-gage is optimal, but MAY not match your headspace exactly.

Larry
Tinkerer

[Nandy]

IF you go the empty case route fill it with jbweld or some epoxy to make sure the thin very malleable brass dont get resized if you ever got the barrel too close and then close the bolt. I have not done this myself as I have gauges for my 2 current calibers but I read it is a good insurance. Also, do not use another gun fire formed brass to check your headspace. I have seen it first hand where the sizes will not be the same, enough for the other gun not to be able to close the bolt...