Picatinny/Weaver Rail And Barrel Change Question..

[Opus Dei]

I need to get one, but I'm concerned that some might be so long that it would prevent getting a wrench on the barrel nut. Conversely, there seems to be a couple of shorter ones, but I'm wondering if there's enough length to work with for eye relief-especially with a short-coupled scope.

What have you found to work? Pictures are appreciated. Thanks!

[hafejd30]

I run TPS and Nightforce rails. Both extend over front of action and need to be removed to get a wrench on the barrel nut. Isnt that big of a deal.

Also not sure what your barrel swap setup is like but my action wrench will not fit around the action with any scope base installed.

[Opus Dei]

I was thinking about using a barrel vise, but your point is taken about an action wrench. In essence, there's not much reason to go with one of those shorter Warne or IOR rails.

[Werewolf]

There were a couple of guys on here who modified a nut wrench so they could use it without taking the scope off. Essentially, they cut off about a third of the "ring" to allow clearance. you might search for those threads.

[geargrinder]

There were a couple of guys on here who modified a nut wrench so they could use it without taking the scope off. Essentially, they cut off about a third of the "ring" to allow clearance. you might search for those threads.

I've modified on of my nut wrenches for my actions that have scopes that are not easy to get off.

My other actions have EGW one piece rails. It does interfere with the wrench but there is still enough to get the wrench on the nut.

[1ShotKing]

Here is a picture of the Millett picatinny rail on my Stevens 200. As you can see it does extend over the barrel nut.

[leatherlunger]

Ive modified my wrench as well. i can quickchange without removing the scope, base or ceg chassis system (benchrest forearm option) on my Rem-Age (uses exact same wrench as savage).

[Billch]

Just get the right base and be done with it.
I got mine from Murphy Precision. It allows access to the barrel nut.



I have a 'modified' EGW 20 MOA base on my F/TR. Hack saw, file, and a black Sharpie.
Nobody will ever know but us.

B

[Opus Dei]

Just get the right base and be done with it.
I got mine from Murphy Precision. It allows access to the barrel nut.



I have a 'modified' EGW 20 MOA base on my F/TR. Hack saw, file, and a black Sharpie.
Nobody will ever know but us.

B

Thanks for the information.

[Opus Dei]

I just received/mounted the Warne Maxima tactical rail. As I hoped, it stopped at the end of the receiver, like the Murphy rail. I should have the GG&G bolt rifle QD mount in tomorrow.

[Txhillbilly]

I just take the few extra minutes it takes to remove the optics and the rail.I spend too much money on my optics to even worry about damaging them by leaving them on the action while I'm swinging a hammer around,breaking the barrel nut loose.
Beside's,the Action wrench won't fit on the receiver with the rail/scope on it.

[leatherlunger]

i use a modified wrench and only torque to 40 lbs. no hammer required and all the optics assembly can stay put. Works nice

[big honkin jeep]

Just be darn sure the base screws aren't through the action touching the barrel threads. They will booger up the threads when you unscrew the barrel. Apparently I'm not the only one who found out about this the hard way. Boogerd up barrel threads will booger up action threads on the way out.
Just a friendly heads up tip about removing barrels with the bases on the action.

[Blue Avenger]

but I'm wondering if there's enough length to work with for eye relief-especially with a short-coupled scope.

Which way do you plan on moving your to short already scope? :) If your using a short scope, your not going to need it long in the front!

[Blue Avenger]

pic of what a few guys have done.

[leatherlunger]

i concur

[Opus Dei]

Which way do you plan on moving your to short already scope? :) If your using a short scope, your not going to need it long in the front!

Well, Yes and No. It's somewhat dependant upon eye relief from person-person. I have an early-'80s Leupold 4-20X Vari-X III that has ample room between bells but that scope needs a lot more relief with me than other scopes or I have excessive lens shadowing. I've even seen online references to others having the same issue with that particular scope. But that scope is on my 700. Not to be pedantic, but close-coupled doesn't mean short-as in "to short already scope". I mean that in the sense that some scopes have a proportionately short tube in relation to the bells and there isn't as much flexibility in ring placement. Therefore, one must rely upon a rail to provide any needed relief correction.

My model 10 has a Weaver Tactical 3X-15X that is fairly close-coupled but has a great, consistent eye box for me. My concerns were based upon a short rail perhaps not allowing enough linear movement to compensate. Although I've shot for years, this is only my second scoped rifle and that finicky Leupold gave me pause for concern.

Yes, I'll still have to pull the action to swap barrels due to the stock design, but I find won't need to remove the rail (that I will use Loctite on the mount screws). I can retain it with the barrel blocks as I had mentioned just fine. The GG&G QD mount will obviate banging the scope with the nut wrench.



As yet, it's not permanently affixed since the intended primary barrel won't be here for a couple months more-and then refinishing remains. I wanted to get this all thrashed-out before Cerakoting. Thanks again, all; I'm pretty pleased with how everything is sorting out. It comes from asking questions and doing research.