you can do it ,go with the action wrench
keeps the bbl. from spining
drybean
Hello,
I have been searching this site for a while on information for my Stevens 200 in .308. I just ordered a McGowan barrel for it and since there are no smiths within a few hours that can swap it out I am looking at doing it myself. My reading here has shown that I need a barrel nut wrench, go/no go gauges, and some way to secure it all while loosening/tightening. I have read about the wheeler barrel vise as well as the action vise. Unless someone can talk me into the line of thinking that the barrel vise is better I am thinking of the action vise. I noticed on Brownells that there are two separate vises. One is for round groove nut and the other is for square. I am wondering which one do I need? Are they talking about the grooves in the barrel nut? Thanks,
you can do it ,go with the action wrench
keeps the bbl. from spining
drybean
another member posted this video. it may help you. i hope he doesn't mind.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPlFt...1BA239DE4D1845
and this would be the action wrench you would need.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/710...700-savage-110
Last edited by devildogandboy; 07-25-2012 at 09:13 PM.
and some way to secure it all while loosening/tightening
Measure the barrel, drill a hole in a 6 inch long 2x4, then cut the 2x4 in half in the middle of the area drilled. Put the barrel in the middle and squeez it in a vise, all you need is a barrel nut wrench and go guage. no-go guage is your option, but a piece of scotch tape will work fine on the go guage. Just put a piece of tape on the go guage, cut it around the edges. When you set the go guage, then put the tape on the end of the go guage and the bolt shouldn't close. Your done!
Cutting the 2/4 in half takes away app 1/8", which is enough to put the right pressure on the barrel without hurting it in any way while tightening the vise and barrel nut!
Cut the 2x4 on the 4" side directly in the center of the hole you drilled 6 inches through the middle. You will now have two pieces about 2x2 with a half hole in each one. I wish I had a picture, I am sure it would show the process to anyone in 1/2 of a second.
Ok thanks, I just noticed that this one is different than the Brownells manufactured one. No mention of the different shaped lugs. Looks easy enough and I have been a police armorer for almost 20 years working on the military style weapons so I at least have a general working knowledge of headspace and gauging. All of the local gunshops here in Cocoa Beach FL do not have the tools to work on bolt actions apparently. McGowan said 8-10 weeks on the barrel so I was thinking of taking the time to practice on the factory one first. When complete it is going into a Bell and Carlson Tactical Medalist stock with a new recoil lug.
I ordered all that from Jim @ NSS. His action wrench works like a charm. Extremely fast shipping as well.
12 LRP .204, 200 .243 project rifle. (action), 116 SS action, 200 270
Good call, I read up on that wrench and it seems that he has made modifications to the design that will make it easier to use. I wish someone rented these things out. 60 bucks for the action wrench and 20 for the barrel nut wrench plus the cost of headspace gauges. Lot of cash for tools that will get used once.
As for the " only used once " don't count on that. Once you see how easy it is the temptation grows.
As for the go/no gauges a resized case works just as well once you get the feel for it.
FROGGY
See profile for fire arms
Do it today there maybe no tomorrow
Definately give Jim@NSS a call. He will know exactly you need for your action. He has a modified top for the wheeler action wrench for savage receivers and can sell you a complete setup at an unbeatable price.
I just did a barrel swap. Barrel vise is not necessary. I used a wheeler action wrench, NSS barrel nut wrench and GO gauge with some scotch tape (NO-go gauges were unavalable) and my headspace is right on.
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