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Thread: Pillar Bedding Boyds for Varmint action

  1. #26
    thomae
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    KeS,
    You bed it with the tape holding the tang and barrel off the stock enough to free float it all. The bedding takes up all the room between the action and the stock around the stock screws.

    When you bed it, you don't tighten down the action with a lot of torque, you use rubber bands or tape to keep it from shifting, but not stress the action.

    That way, when you are all done and the bedding compound is dry and hard, you torque the action into the stock and the action fits perfectly like a glove, while the tang and barrel are fully free floated.

    Yes, there will be a gap underneath the tang, but it is hardly noticable. Plus, everyone will be gawking at your targets , not staring at your tang asking why it does not touch the stock.

    I hope that makes sense and answers your questions.
    All the best,

  2. #27
    kevin_stevens
    Guest
    Yeah, by "final assembly" I meant after bedding was complete, not during the bedding. Tx for this - there was one instruction PDF I'd read that was firm about leaving the tang sitting on clean wood.

    KeS

  3. #28
    Basic Member ShowMeShooter's Avatar
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    I know this thread is kind of old, but there is a lot of info here. I have one question though.

    When bedding around the recoil lug, are all sides bedded in tight? Or is it a good idea to put a couple layers of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the lug?

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by WuzYoungOnceToo View Post
    Has anyone here used a pilot drill bit of any kind to enlarge their stock's action screw holes for pillars?
    I use a 1/2 counter bore with interchangeable pilots then turn my pillars to .470-.475 for a little slop, attach them to the action then glue them in and bed the stock at the same time, one shot and done.



    Most times the existing screw holes are over sized for a 1/4" screw shank, so I make the pilots a close fit to align and keep the counter bore from walking. I use either the mill or drill press, but I would imagine you could bore them with a hand drill.

    Bill

  5. #30
    thomae
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShowMeShooter View Post
    I know this thread is kind of old, but there is a lot of info here. I have one question though.

    When bedding around the recoil lug, are all sides bedded in tight? Or is it a good idea to put a couple layers of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the lug?
    Most of what I have read indicated that one should put a layer of tape on the sides and bottom. This will help you remove the bedded action. Some folks put a layer of tape on the front, some don't. It's the back that needs the tight fit to make sure the recoil forces are evenly distributed/transferred to the stock. Also, Make sure you put release agent on the tape and on the untaped part of the recoil lug.

  6. #31
    Basic Member ShowMeShooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thomae View Post
    Most of what I have read indicated that one should put a layer of tape on the sides and bottom. This will help you remove the bedded action. Some folks put a layer of tape on the front, some don't. It's the back that needs the tight fit to make sure the recoil forces are evenly distributed/transferred to the stock. Also, Make sure you put release agent on the tape and on the untaped part of the recoil lug.
    thanks. I think I'll tape the sides bottom and front. that makes the most sense to me.

  7. #32
    maddogg316
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    I heard you want to leave tape off the sides of a recoil lug because with round actions it helps stop the twisting an action will see from recoil!

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