Reply With QuoteMake sure the rear tang is free floated.
I'm about to bed my Model 12 LRP on a Manners T5A. It's my first bedding job, Savage or otherwise, and I'm wondering about the recoil lug and barrel nut area. I've read that some bed the barrel nut area, others stop at the recoil lug. I'm interested in your experience and practices. Also since this is my first, any other specific tips are appreciated. Thanks.
Bob
Make sure the rear tang is free floated.
Good, cheap, fast : Pick two.
Due to the notches in the barrel nut it is impractical to bed it an switch barrels since the rotational alignment will not be the same, I put a couple of layers of tape around it. I follow the recommendations to place one layer of tape on the sides of the recoil lug and two layers on the bottom and front (major problems if bottom touches), so only the rear surface is in contact with the bedding.
+1 What Charlie said.
I never bed the barrel nut. In fact, I make sure it's free floating and not in any fashion touching the stock. Also, the recoil lug...I put two pieces of "painters tape" across the sides and bottom, and then I apply a release agent to the tape (of course to the whole action) and when it's dry, I make sure the only part of the lug that is in contact with the stock is the rear. I will often take my Dremmel (remember.....the Dremmel is a dangerous tool) and "clean out" the sides and bottom of the bedding compound so that I'm certain only the rear of the lug is in contact with the stock.
In addition....don't forget about the tang. It's important to make sure the tang is free floating. I find a half-round file is the most useful tool for this.
Here is the result of my "latest" 6.5 bull barrel installation on a B&C Medalist stock. Now, granted I didn't need to bed it....but I did have to do some filing to make sure the tang was free floating. The 5 shot "group" measures .70, and I did not include that first shot as it was the "bore fouling" shot. (I had a nice squeaky clean bore that morning) And quite frankly, had I done my part.....the group would have been .40.
But....I'm a happy camper.....and the Pa. Groundhogs are now in bigger trouble. As this 6.5 Swede....along with my new .223 Carbine....well, I'm as happy as a pig in mud!!!!
I just bedded a Steven action and it was my first. It is wearing a 6mmbr McGowen barrel and I did not bed the nut. It shoots like a dream. My first 3 shots went into .113. It will in the .3 moa range without load workup.
Last edited by medic08; 07-02-2012 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Add pics
I bed my recoil lugs tight front and rear with one layer of tape around the outside perimeter.
I see no reason to have clearance in the front.
OK, I've heard this several times now. Why should the tang area on a Savage be free floating? What does this relieve? Thanks.Originally Posted by Doby45
Bob
The tang is a long way from the rear action bolt on a Savage and since it is you can induce pressure on the tang possibly resulting in slight bending and stress when you're looking for completely stress free bedding.
Thanks for the explanation. Along that same line of questioning, the tang "assembly" actually starts at the bolt handle and of course goes rearward. In floating the tang should this entire surface from the bolt handle rearward be floated or is it only necessary to float the tang section that rests on the center rear of the stock just behind the safety? Sorry to nit-pick, but I want to do this correctly. Thanks.
Bob
To paraphrase Sgt Friday, "Just the tang sir"
El Lobo
Can anyone provide an actual picture of this?
AGREED, I need a dummy proof picture with highlighted areas.
Pictures please :)
kinda like this? this is a savage f/class stock for a target action modified to fit a single shot model 12
Last edited by teele1; 07-08-2012 at 07:52 AM.
6CM
How about one with a DBM?kinda like this? this is a savage f/class stock for a target action modified to fit a single shot model 12
ok here goes...... all bedding forward of the lug was completely cleaned out as well as the putty around the rear pillar
this stock now has 9/16 aluminum pillars front and rear as well as CDI bottom metal
this 6CM McMillan with CDI bottom metal is owned and operated by DGD6MM
Last edited by teele1; 07-08-2012 at 03:34 PM.
6CM
Touche sir.
Thank you teele1! I tried to PM you and received the message that your box was too full.
Last edited by hnts4fun; 07-09-2012 at 08:23 PM.
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