Reply With QuoteHow close is it to being enough? Maybe thin down the factory lug on a belt sander or such until it fits?
Anybody tried it? Working with a 20 VT with not enough threads on the barrel after set back. Had more cut but not enough. ::) :-[
I'am thinking low recoil so maybe it would pass? Action set in Whidden V Block.
Big heavy hitting caliber, lug needed for sure. Low recoil, maybe get by without it?
Was set up with machined (thicker) lug. Tried thinner (factory) lug. Still not enough threads.Thoughts and opinions. Thanks, Mike.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
How close is it to being enough? Maybe thin down the factory lug on a belt sander or such until it fits?
That's next on the list, short of adding more threads. May be only .010 to .025?
Just enough that it can't be set with a lug installed. Be better to recut more threads. No questions asked that way.
I'll need to set the headspace without the lug to get a measurement.
Just wondering if it's been done. Some BR actions have no recoil lug?
I have set headspace and forgot the lug. :-[
Good thing it's a Savage. ;D
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
You could face the nut off a little (if you don't need much)
Jack
take some of the threads out of the nut so you can back it up over the shank a little more
With the recoil lug, you need something to suprt the action in recoil, a widden v block is not going to suport the action in the right way, you need something that will stop the rearward movement, of the action. Even on light recoiling calibers there needs to be suport.
On custom benchrest gun that are shooting the 6PPC they dont use a recoil lug, but the tang of the reciever is barried into the stock to act like a recoil lug. Some actions (like Bat) have a cut out in the center of the action that acts like a recoil lug. These actions also have a much thicker and squared off tang on the rear of the reciever, to mimic a recoil lug.
Moral of the story is, your Savage needs a recoil lug.
Patrick: I hear exactily what you're saying. Just curious.Final result "will be" adding more threads and setting it up like it's suppose to be. And the learning process goes on. ;D Input much appreciated, Mike.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
Hey Mikey,
I take it you've shortened a .204 to make a .20VT? I have done this with several calibers like. .. .204 to .20 VT,.223 to .221 and even .270 Win to .270 Sav and I always had good luck shortening the barrel nut. On one of them I ground a few thousands off a recoil lug, and they all worked very well. But I'm with the others, though, you should keep your lug.
Pat
Made a decision and the barrel is packed back up and will go out tomorrow AM. Should have it back before next weekend.
Ground lugs and shortened barrel nuts just wouldn't be in line with the "real" way I like to do things so it'll have another .250" of threads added and be done right.
No guess work that way and it's a done deal. 8)
You start by taking short cuts and somewhere down the line it'll come back and bite you.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
We think a lot alike!Originally Posted by Nor Cal Mikie
You start by taking short cuts and somewhere down the line it'll come back and bite you.
It's better to shoot for the moon and hit the fencepost than to shoot for the fencepost and hit the ground!
Ran the nut as far forward on the threads as it would go (snug)
Set the headspace without the lug and came up with a gap measurement of .160.
Factory (thin) lug measures .185.
Machined (thick) lug measures .245.
.375+ of threads will be added. The unthreaded portion of the nut will cover the threads. ;D
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
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