Reply With QuoteHey Joe,
Have you tried de-cocking the bolt and then starting the screw, once it is started, then recocking the bolt and then tighting the screw down? I think this may help you to save some time.
BOLT ASSY PIN AND SCOTCH TAPE
I take the firing pin assembly out of the bolt when changing barrels and setting headspace. I put Scotch tape around the bolt head assembly pin because if I don't, then the pin can partially slide out of the bolt, cause interference and confusing me. This also preserves the alignment of the pin in the bolt body.
BOLT ASSEMBLY SCREW T HANDLE ALLEN WRENCH
I take my Striker and M10 bolts apart very frequently. The Striker bolt goes together easily, while the M10 bolt can be a trial, sometimes taking half an hour to get the bolt assembly screw in correctly. I think this is because the screw must be pressed down to compress the firing pin assembly just a little bit.
I bought a 1/4" T handle allen wrench and disassembled/assembled the 10 bolt a few times, and it now goes together pretty quickly and easily.
joe b.
Hey Joe,
Have you tried de-cocking the bolt and then starting the screw, once it is started, then recocking the bolt and then tighting the screw down? I think this may help you to save some time.
How do I recock the firing pin? Will it cock if I push the bolt in? never tried that. Would you explain, please?Originally Posted by 82boy
Thanks;
joe b.
With the screw in a couple of turns, just push the cocking pin/button against the edge of a table or workbench to cock it back into place, then finish tightening your screw.
It will not re-cock itself by putting the bolt back in the action.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
I just tried this a couple of times. It works just fine. Why didn't I see this?
Thanks;
joe b.
Anyone need a 1/4" T handle allen wrench?
Why do you take the firing pin out of the bolt for changing barrels and setting headspace?
Because there's less resistance when closing the bolt. I think I can feel the cartridge resistance better.Why do you take the firing pin out of the bolt for changing barrels and setting headspace?
Remove the ejector too. But that's just me.
joe b.
This is a bit of a thread hijack but in the same subject range. I've got two model 16 actions, one is a bit older and has the top mounted bolt release, the newer one has the bottom mounted bolt release. For the older one, the 1/4" hex in the bolt end piece is clearly accessable whether the firing pin is cocked or not. The newer one has the tail of the firing pin project through the hex when it's cocked but the hole is clear when it been decocked. How do I disassemble that one?
decock it
drtbean
Hmm. I leave the ejector and the firing pin in the bolt. Since the bolt is cocked on open not close I'm not sure that I even considered the firing pin as being capable of causing resistance since it is retracted and cocked. The ejector I could kind of understand because it is pointing out of the bolt head.
I guess I'm not being a subtle as you are when looking for resistance on the gauge. I chamber the gauge with the barrel loose and then I screw the barrel down until it is snug against the gauge. Then open and close the bolt a couple of times to make sure it is fully chambering then I snug down the nut and call it a day.
I also take the firing pin assy out when trying reloads in the guns, so the ctg can't fire-no accidents. I try at least a few reloads from each lot reloaded just to see that they fit. I once was at the bench at 2AM before leaving for a match with not a one reloaded ctg that would go in the gun. Since then...
Also take the firing pin assy out when getting OAL measurement with new bullet or barrel.
I take the bolts apart a lot, probably more than I should. But everything's clean and well oiled.
Thanks;
joe b.
I built a 30-06 and .223 bolt for my 110. Got tired of swappin the thing all the time/.
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