Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 46 of 46

Thread: Oil and wood

  1. #26
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038

    Re: Oil and wood


    Yeah the Tru-oil says it's fast drying and as far as the re-applying goes I guess that comes in handy if for some reason you would get too much solvent or something like that on there that started messing up the finish. I guess you could just clean the solvent off and re-apply the tru-oil in that spot. Thanks again for all the info.

  2. #27
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    Sorry,I know this thread is old but I had another thought today when I took off the butt stock of my Marlin 1895. I have the inletting coated with Tru-oil. When I took off the stock I noticed that I must have missed a little bit of excess CLP the last time I lubed it and it ran down under the hammer and was sitting on the inletting of the wood. Again, I have it coated with Tru-oil so I just wiped it off with some alcohol and dried it. The finish appears to be ok as far as I can tell. So, can the gun oil (CLP) eventually break down the tru-oil if left on long enough or does the time frame matter? I know you guys said that the tru-oil sealed it and kept the gun oil from soaking in, I just wondered if there was a time frame to that or not.

  3. #28
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    178
    Man, I hope that this doesn't sound rude but you really should go back and re-read post #2. You are worrying about this way too much.

  4. #29
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    No offense taken. I'm sure I'm worrying too much, I just don't want to get my stock stained. I don't over lube my actions but I probably put a little more on them than some people just because I don't believe in leaving them totally dry. However, they're not sloppy either. But occasionally a little excess gets missed and apparently this is what I found yesterday under the tang of my 1895. I've got it coated with Tru-Oil so it should be fine. I just wondered if the oil stayed on the tru-oil if it would eventually break it down and get through it. My guess is that a solvent would but oil or clp probably not. Anyway, thanks for the response.

  5. #30
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Elizabethtown,Pa
    Age
    75
    Posts
    1,313
    Quote Originally Posted by efm77 View Post
    But occasionally a little excess gets missed and apparently this is what I found yesterday under the tang of my 1895.
    Like a lot of other things I do outside of "tradition" all my rifles are stored standing muzzle down or hanging upside down. It may not be the classic way of showing them off, but I want any excess oil to drain away from the stock and action, not into them.

    A small example...


    Over the years I've bedded, re-bedded, repaired or replaced too many oil damaged stocks. Of course I didn't complain to much, the money was good!

    Bill
    Last edited by BillPa; 12-28-2012 at 05:55 PM.

  6. #31
    ellobo
    Guest
    Ah, BillPa, a good old American capitalist. My kinda guy. Bill I am glad you mentioned the muzzle down scenario. Not many today know that little trick. Even guns I have on a rack on the wall are slanted down at the muzzle to keep oil out of the stocks. Thanks, we old timers have got to keep these young whippersnapers in line and educated.

    El Lobo

  7. #32
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    I knew that little trick already. Problem is the way the racks are set up in my safe it is impossible to put them in there muzzle down.

  8. #33
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    Still no one has answered though whether or not it will soak through a tru-oil finish or not. I've always been told it would keep the oil out of the stock.

  9. #34
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    Also with them muzzle down what's to keep it from migrating through the mag box or some other way out of the receiver and into the wood under the receiver or in the forearm? Probably unlikely, but could happen, it could miss the bore of the barrel and get through the action somewhere else. Not trying to be a smart ... just sayin'.

  10. #35
    acemisser
    Guest
    If you have so much oil on them that you worry about it dripping all over than Thats your own fault for using so much oil..All it takes is a very thin film to protect them..They do make what is called a sanding sealer from your hardware that is wonderful stuff..One should use a few coats of it though..I use it when doing cabinet work and it is great stuff...Look for it and try it.I know you will be very happy with the results..A lot of the so called oils for wood are junk...Tongue oil is the worst stuff anyone can use on wood..There should be a law to prevent all that crap oil on the market..Never oil a gun with wd-40 it is nothing put cheap fish oil and will cause it to gum up if too much is applied...Good luck with whatever you decide to do or use..

  11. #36
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    If you'll notice in my previous posts I said that I don't over oil them. Sometimes though a little excess might get missed. This is what I found under the tang of my 1895. I use a needle oiler to get a couple drops into pivot points like the hammer and carrier hinges in my lever action, then wipe off all the excess I can see. Apparently a little still ran down under the tang though that I must have missed. We're not talking about a lot here but it was noticeable. No offense but you guys are just going back to the same old thing about not over oiling it which I know I am not. But you can't just simply wipe it down with a cloth and leave a thin film and expect that to actually get into a hinge or pin and lubricate it. A thin coat will protect the metal yes but you need to get some sort of drop into a pivot point. That's all I'm doing with mine. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

  12. #37
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    178
    TruOil is a good sealer and it should at least mitigate some oil absorption if not completely eliminate it.

  13. #38
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    Thank you. That's what I was hoping, just wanted to hear of someone else's experience.

  14. #39
    Super Moderator Blue Avenger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,972
    Know a few guys that stand there guns on the muzzle to make any oil flow away from the stock.
    .223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor

  15. #40
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    Thanks but we already touched on that.

  16. #41
    Super Moderator Blue Avenger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Minnesota
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,972
    Quote Originally Posted by efm77 View Post
    Thanks but we already touched on that.
    My point, that you want to gloss over is that he is not the only one to do it. As to oil getting to the forend... whole lot better then in the wrist where it will snap.

    If all you want to hear is tru oil will seal it then I can say that. until the dry weather comes and the wood shrinks and then the damp weather come and the wood swells a micro meter creating the spot where a drop of your oil gets in. Your going to have to go synthetic.
    .223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, 28 nosler, .416 Taylor

  17. #42
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    I didn't gloss over it. I really appreciate the input. I know he's not the only one. Like I said earlier though, the racks in my safe are not set up to be able to put them in there muzzle down except on the front row. I can put a few in there like that but that's it. The only other option is to stand them in every corner of the house which would be ok with me but I doubt the wife would like it. I have mostly synthetics and don't worry about them so I try to leave as much space on the front for the wood ones to be put muzzle down. As for the wood shrinking and swelling, I guess I thought the tru oil finish would expand and contract along with it so I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for pointing that out.

  18. #43
    Basic Member defcon9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    SC Foothills
    Age
    61
    Posts
    30
    Whichever way rifles are stored, NEVER close the muzzle! Right?

    I mean if the muzzle is capped off through temperature and humidity changes, soon the wood won't be of concern. Not with that barrel anyway. Right?

    Correct me if I'm wrong please.

  19. #44
    doc540
    Guest
    Howard's Feed'N'Wax is the stuff - orange oil and beeswax

  20. #45
    Basic Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Western NC
    Posts
    1,038
    Defcon, as long as you don't have the barrel sealed completely and you store them inside where there's not much humidity you should be fine. A very light film of oil in the barrel will protect it.

    Also as a side note. Blue Avenger discussed the swelling and shrinking of the wood and makes a good point with that. However, the Tru-Oil bottle says the finish won't crack with age. I assume this means with temperature/humidity changes too. I haven't used it long enough to see though but I'm trying to store my wood stocked guns muzzle down now but have limited space to do that.

  21. #46
    Basic Member defcon9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    SC Foothills
    Age
    61
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by efm77 View Post
    Defcon, as long as you don't have the barrel sealed completely and you store them inside where there's not much humidity you should be fine. A very light film of oil in the barrel will protect it.

    Also as a side note. Blue Avenger discussed the swelling and shrinking of the wood and makes a good point with that. However, the Tru-Oil bottle says the finish won't crack with age. I assume this means with temperature/humidity changes too. I haven't used it long enough to see though but I'm trying to store my wood stocked guns muzzle down now but have limited space to do that.
    Yep, it seems that even a slight tilt will leave the barrel open.
    Useful tip.

    Knowledgable members on this site.

    Thanks all!

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. B17/B22 Series: B22 wood
    By Monkeymaster in forum Savage & Stevens Rimfire Rifles
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-19-2017, 09:37 PM
  2. What kind of wood?
    By DogGreen44 in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-14-2015, 07:06 AM
  3. Mark I/II/93R: wood stocks
    By Dreher in forum Savage & Stevens Rimfire Rifles
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-18-2015, 03:21 AM
  4. Wood is good
    By Willy Pete in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 08-17-2014, 10:03 AM
  5. Nice wood for my new 110?
    By jeffman3 in forum 110-Series Rifles
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 01-05-2014, 09:09 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •