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Thread: Still more barrel change questions...

  1. #1
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    Still more barrel change questions...


    Not barrel change but more like a recoil lug question or 12...

    From what I've derived so far from the regular barrel swappers here, replacing the factory recoil lug is a benefit.

    Is this a case where thicker is better? I've noticed aftermarket lugs in a variety of thicknesses (ie .200", .2285", .300", .50")

    ANy one particular metal better than another? (Stainless, regular steel or chrome moly?)

    Will additional thickness of the lug change anything about installing the barrel or barrel nut?

    I see where aftermarket lugs have the sides paralleled. No doubt this is a benefit?

    Anything else of importance an aspiring barrel swapper would need to know about recoil lugs in general?

    As usual, thanks for the info.

    Frank in Fla.
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  2. #2
    ellobo
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    Frank, the factory lugs are stamped out of plate steel and are warped as a result. Becuase of that they do not fit flush against the surface of the stock they are supposed to contact. For a new lug, thickness shouldnt be a concern, or material.

    El Lobo

  3. #3
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    Ellobo -
    Ya know, since you mention that, I grabbed the one I have, still in the package, & gave it a good long look. That thing has quite a twist to it! I guess it goes in the spare parts section & I'll order a fresh, hopefully flat, lug.
    You say thickness is of no consequence? I shouldn't have any difficulty matching everything up?

    Thanks for your input. It's much appreciated.
    Frank
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  4. #4
    ellobo
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    Frank and fgw, aftermarket lugs are ground flat on both sides and edges. Well worth the money. Some do not have a dimple for locating it in a notch in the reciever so you have to drill for a press fit with a little stud or drill and tap for a screw and cut it short like the dimple on the factory lug.

    El Lobo

  5. #5
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    Frank,
    Even a twisted one is of little consequence, IF you properly bed the action so that you have full contact.
    There are plenty of threads on the barrel, so if you put a thicker lug on you will still be able to do business as usual.
    No the thickness doesn't matter for other purposes. The factory lugs won't flex under recoil, so thicker isn't a practical benefit. Some people think thicker must be better, that's fine. Some people throw salt over their shoulder for luck also. Different strokes...
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  6. #6
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    Darker - Sooo... How much salt should I throw? ;D Should I bed the stock with salt ?

    Ok, got it.... As usual, simpler is better. I'll still go with a better grade of lug. Action is already bedded and such. Got a couple steel rods in the forend for ballast & to eliminate most of the twist.
    It's an original 1997 110 stock & it's worked quite well since I've had the rifle. I suppose one day I'll run into the right deal or have few hundred bucks I don't have anything to do with & replace it. For now, it works too well & I'm not one for making waves. An old saying we have in building maintenance - If it ain't broke, don't screw with it. I'm sure y'all are familiar with it.
    Thanx to all for your input.

    Frank
    'Scuse me while I whip this out...!

  7. #7
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    You can go to thick on the lug. You need enough threads for the barrel nut to headspace.
    I've heard of some so thick you run out of threads before headspace is correct.

  8. #8
    ellobo
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    Re: Still more barrel change questions...

    Thirty06, that may be true on a Remington but I doubt it is true on a Savage.

    El Lobo

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