Reply With QuoteDon't see why not. You'll probably be surprised how little you use, mine broke in easier than a select match Shilen.
I placed my order with Jim this week and am hoping he ships my new Criterion soon. During the break in procedure I have planned to use Shooters Choice cleaning solvent as I already have a bottle on hand. Does this sound fine to everyone?
Don't see why not. You'll probably be surprised how little you use, mine broke in easier than a select match Shilen.
Nothing better.Originally Posted by deltagunner00
Is standard procedure just a few passes with a wet patch, let set for a bit then run a brass brush down it, then wet patch and finish with dry patching? Dont want to screw this beauty up when i get it. Also, it seems harsh to run a brass brush down it but i have to understand the barrel is much harder than the brass, right? Thanks
The barrel is absolutely harder than the brass brush, but the solvent can eat a little of the brass and give some false positives re your copper fouling. A nylon brush may work better.
Is that the way to go and buy a nylon brush? Thanks
I prefer nylon brushes when using copper solvents. The solvent will attack a brass brush. Either way, I'd make sure it is a quality brush with a brass core, not steel. And be sure to use a bore guide.
Dont worry, bronze brush is the way to go. IMO a nylon brush is just plain worthless. The brush is needed to help break up the hard carbon, a nylone brush just wount do a thing on it. Never run a dry brush down the bore, the brush sould be wet with solvent, then clean the brush in water after use. Still woried? I have seen litterly hundreds of (100-300 yard) benchrest shooters (Who stride for the utmost in extream accuracy.) use bronze brushes running then in and out past the crown cleaning the barrel after ever 10 to 15 shots. If this hurt the barrel in any way these fellows would not do it.
Good discussion here. I wonder why some are against the bronze but some are not? It makes sense that the nylon is not hard enough to break up the carbon.
That's possible- if you let the carbon build up real bad a softer brush may not get it all I suppose. The longest I've ever let a barrel go between cleanings has been when we were out shooting pds and even then, while the round count was high they all got cleaned at the end of the day. Even with just a nylon brush the Criterion was super easy to clean. They're great barrels- you'll love it.
My only gripes with the brass is that the copper solvents attack them, and makes them leave false indications in the barrel. They also get brittle if you use them with copper solvents repeatedly. I do occasionally use them with powder solvents, though. They definitely don't hurt a barrel though. As far as hard carbon deposits, I think the solvent you are using determines your success more so than the type of brush. Basically it's all just personal preference.
What are some good name brand brushes that have brass in the middlemrather than steel?
If you believe there is no hard carbon in your barrel, you are fooling your self. The black sooty stuff you get on a patch is soft carbon, there is a big difference. Unless your using a good solvent, and a bronze brush, you will never remove it. It affects some calibers more than others, one the comes to mind is the 204 Ruger.
I believe Dewey brushes are brass core. Whatever the brand, look for it in the description.
Carb-out (same company that makes Wipe-out ) is a good carbon solvent- just keep it off your stock. Top Engine Cleaner, sold at GM dealerships, is supposed to work well too. It's designed to remove hard carbon deposits in piston rings and cylinder heads.
I like Pro-shot the best.
http://www.proshotproducts.com/
J dewey is a great as well.
GM TEC was the BOMB! Then they discontinued it, and replaced it with GM top engine and fuel ejector cleaner, and then jack the price up from $4-$6 dollars a can to what is now over $15-$20 a bottle. Shooters choice has GM TEC in it, and it works great. Mercury power tune (Found at boat dealers.) is the same stuff as TEC but it is in an airisole can. I tried Sea foam and it is not even close, it plain sucks.
My criterion will be reasonably clean with almost any solvent in less then 10 patches after i broke it in.
pretty amazing comparing that criterion to my factory weatherby barrel.
But I love shooters choice
Sinclair International has the best carbon remover I have ever used. It is called T&M. I use Sweets 7.62 to remove heavy copper fouling followed by T&M to remove the carbon. If lightly fouled with copper I just use the T&M as it also removes copper. If anyone can put their hands on a ancient can of benzine noting beats that. When I was a kid I use to dip motor cycle spark plugs in it and they would look like brand new plugs after dipping. I had a small can of it and it removed all carbon soft and hard with three patches. Sad to say it ran out.
Best regards,
Grit
TM is a good solvent, it is Tom Meredith's brew.
http://www.tmss.net/
I believe it also has TEC in it.
I did a test using about a dozen different copper cleaners.
I glued a dozen pennys from the 1970's to a piece of card board, (pennys from the 70's had the highest copper content)I then put a drop of the various copper solvents on each of the pennys. After 24 hours I cleaned off each penny. All of the copper solvents that I tested did nothing more than take the tarnish off the penny, except for one, KG brand No. 12 copper cleaner actually pitted the penny. Needless to say all those other brands are sitting on the shelf in my garage and the KG stuff is in my range box.
As far as carbon cleaner I went with the KG brand No.1 carbon cleaner, I figure if their copper cleaner is that good than their carbon cleaner should "git er dun" as well.
Charlie
Plus +1 on KG12 product,stuff works great.
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