Dies for .308

[sliderspal]

I am new to reloading and I am trying to decide which dies set I need for reloading of my .308 brass that I am shooting through my Savage 10 FCP-K. I have been told that I only have to size the neck of the brass and then I have been told I need a full length die for sizing and then I have been told to get a small base die as I also have a Armalite AR10 that I will be reloading for.
Also should I just go with a taper crimp die no matter which sizing die I choose?
Thanks

[12fv 308]

I have the Lee Deluxe die set. it comes with the neck sizer, full length sizer and seating die. when the brass is new or starts to stick in the action I full length size. after that and fire the round it is called fire formed. this makes the brass match your barrel. then you can neck size. I neck size brass 5 or 6 times before I have to full length size. I dont crimp for my bolt gun, but in a Ar I would buy a crimp die and full length size all the time. Once you fire form brass only use it in that rifle..
Pete

[dacaur]

If you fire the brass in a bolt action, you can neck size if you are going to fire it again in the same bolt gun.
If you want to fire it in your AR-10, you must full length resize. There are always exceptions, some people are able to get away with a firing or two in an autoloader with only neck sizing, but eventualy it will cause reliability problems in an autoloader.... The big problem is when a round doesnt fully chamber and you have a slamfire.... not worth the risk IMO.... Always full length resize for any autoloader...

For your situation, I would recommend the lee pacesetter set, it comes with a full length size die, bullet seater, and the factory crimp die.

[bootsmcguire]

I say both 12fv 308 and dacaur are right about what kind of sizing for each gun.

If it were me I would load some brass for bolt gun only and some for autoloader only. That said, I would get the Lee Deluxe Die set and add the Lee factory crimp die. That way you can FL size, Neck Size, and/or crimp. This is the system I have done with most of my calibers and I could not be happier.

Just my 2 cents.

[stangfish]

Sage advice ^

[sliderspal]

Is the Lee factory crimp OK to use in bolt guns? Or would a taper crimp be a better option?
BTW Speer bullets says not to use the Lee factory crimp with their bullets.
Anybody know why this is?

[Eric in NC]

Is the Lee factory crimp OK to use in bolt guns? Or would a tamper crimp be a better option?
BTW Speer bullets says not to use the Lee factory crimp with their bullets.
Anybody know why this is?

Don't need any crimp with bolt guns. Some say it helps with velocity variation - never seen that in my experience. Just an extra step and a brass life shortner. You may want to do it with your AR though.

The Lee crimp die may deform thin jacketed bullets (or any bullets for that matter) - could even cause the jackets to scar as the bullet comes out I suppose.

[bootsmcguire]

I cannot say about Speer's Warning against the Factory Crimp Die. I know that I have used it in the past on my 308's hunting loads and it seemed to improve my accuracy (I was using 150gr SST's) and with my target load it didn't seem to help or hurt (155gr A-Max). In a bolt gun, it is not needed, but it is a nice peace of mind for hunting loads that will get knocked around and loaded and unloaded out a your gun multiple times.

Besides what Eric has suggested about deforming the bullet, the only thing I can think of is maybe it possible that the Lee FC Die can put a very heavy crimp on compared to traditional crimps since it is squeezing the brass to the bullet via a collet? With the Collet you could put one he!! of a crimp on with no chance of case buckling/deformation. Maybe some people were doing that getting severe spikes in pressure and Speer just said to heck with it, don't use it? Don't know on that one, just speculating. :-\

Personally I like having the F.C. Die around "just in case I need it".

All I will say for sure is if you are going to crimp for any gun, work your load up from the beginning using the crimp.

[sliderspal]

Thanks everyone for taking the time to provide me with some great info.

[darkker]

Neck size with bolt guns, full length with autoloaders. A slam-fire is due to no firing pin spring(usually someone talking about an SKS, POS) and the bolt slaming shut ignites the round. Also said "runaway". Not the same as not having the bolt locked when firing.

If you properly size your brass, you shouldn't NEED to use the FCD. Also unless your AR-10 is like an HK G series, or FAL with a fluted chamber; don't worry about using small base dies. Standard full length dies are fine.

[big honkin jeep]

The Lee deluxe set should fill all your needs. It's what I use for multiple similar weapons. Neck for the bolt gun and FL for the AR.
You will need to keep your brass separate.
ARs are brass mangling machines

[earl39]

A slam-fire is due to no firing pin spring(usually someone talking about an SKS, POS) and the bolt slaming shut ignites the round. Also said "runaway".

you should look at an AR firing pin...no spring which puts it right up there with that "SKS, POS" as you put it. Unless the AR-10 is different from the AR-15 and a spring has been added in the design a slamfire is possible.

[Eric in NC]

Slam fires can also result from high primers, broken firing pins, gummed up bolts, etc.

[big honkin jeep]

When it comes to slam fires
A little cosmoline around the firing pin will darn sure do it.