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Thread: 223 Axis to 300Blk conversion

  1. #1
    Leanman1
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    223 Axis to 300Blk conversion


    Just an note on my upcoming build.

    I purchased a Savage axis in .223 from Cabela's, with a holiday sale and some points, I bought it for about $200.

    Midway supplied an EGW solid scope base for about $34. Also a Savage action wrench on sale for $22 made by their house brand Caldwell.

    Brownells for some bake on Gunkote in flat black for $30, but I'll redo a FAL barrel and some touchups there too...so break that cost up some.

    I did the trigger improvement suggested on this forum, cost less than $5 in set screws and springs. Some improvement, and I plan to stone the sear and trigger to smooth it out some. COULD do a Rifle Basix trigger for $70, but I'd like to try my hand at the cheap fix.

    Just purchased a spare box mag and a YOUTH stock direct from Savage. Not listed on their web site, just call them. 39.99 and another $80 for the stock.

    I have a cheap 3x9 scope I'm thinking of using, but I don't know. My 8" Noveske AR in 300Blk is set up with a 1x4 Leupold, and I like that fine. got a spare SWFA SSALT mount from a buddy for $20, so there's optics taken care of.

    So...$400 into it?

    The group buy is from Gun Shack
    http://www.gunshack.com/groupbuy?product_id=164

    I'll mount either my AAC 762SD or the AAC Ti-Rant 45 I have pending. Subsonics, supersonic. Deer rifle for my boys and a toy to play with...

  2. #2
    Leanman1
    Guest
    ok, so I have the barrel. Couple of questions.

    I tried threading the ER Shaw barrel in, and the new barrel stops less than a full rotation into the receiver. Never mind coming anywhere near the point of headspace. Am I crazy or do I need to research if the Axis receiver is threaded the same as a standard Savage?

  3. #3
    thomae
    Guest
    You may have it cross threaded, or perhaps the threads need to be chased just a bit to clean them up of a burr or two. Does the barrel nut screw on and off smoothly?

    The Axis barrel threads are the same as the standard small shank savage barrel threads.
    Last edited by thomae; 08-25-2012 at 11:58 PM.

  4. #4
    M.O.A.
    Guest
    i did not think the barrels where the same but i dont know for sure

  5. #5
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by thomae View Post
    You may have it cross threaded, or perhaps the threads need to be chased just a bit to clean them up of a burr or two. Does the barrel nut screw on and off smoothly?

    The Axis barrel threads are the same as the standard small shank savage barrel threads.
    I really hope that is true. When I removed the barrel nut, it looked like tiny ball bearings and light oil came out of the threads. Some sort of super anti seize?

    this cheap build is concerning me already....

  6. #6
    Leanman1
    Guest
    also, no I couldn't get the barrel nut off the old barrel. It has about 1/4 inch of travel towards the muzzle, then towards the chamber and locks up. Which direction does it come off?

  7. #7
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    It comes off the chamber end. Sounds like the factory may have screwed one up.
    The barrels are the same for Savage 10-110 and Axis- Edge.

  8. #8
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    Since you cannot remove the old barrel nut from the old barrel, it sounds like the front scope base screw may have damaged the threads on the barrel. I've had this happen a couple times. This will leave some small metal pieces/shavings in the action threads which need to be cleaned.
    If you still have the front base installed, removed it, clean the action threads and see if the new barrel will thread onto the action.

  9. #9
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by cqh1111 View Post
    Since you cannot remove the old barrel nut from the old barrel, it sounds like the front scope base screw may have damaged the threads on the barrel. I've had this happen a couple times. This will leave some small metal pieces/shavings in the action threads which need to be cleaned.
    If you still have the front base installed, removed it, clean the action threads and see if the new barrel will thread onto the action.
    I don't see any evidence of damaged threads on the barrel I removed.

    I'll try to remove the barrel nut towards the chamber side. It just seems to hit a stop.

    I have more than an inch of travel to get the new barrel NEAR the bolt face.

    The new barrel just starts to thread and locks up. I don't want to force it. I spoke with a local 'smith today and he tells me the AXIS thread pitch and a Savage 110 small shank are different thread pitches. Do we KNOW they are the same? Google tells me nothing.

    Help, please!
    -m

  10. #10
    Basic Member
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    Just call Savage Monday morning and inquire directly.

    George

  11. #11
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    Axis barrels have the same thread as a standard shank. The "ball bearings" you see are actually small steel shot used to create the matte finish. It is common for those to accumulate in the thread joint around the front of the nut and be difficult for removal of the nut. Try flushing out with some carb cleaner. Use a wire brush on the inside threads of your receiver to remove stubborn shot that is wedged between threads. One of the small stainless steel brushes used on copper pipe fittings works excellent.
    "As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."

  12. #12
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sharpshooter View Post
    Axis barrels have the same thread as a standard shank. The "ball bearings" you see are actually small steel shot used to create the matte finish. It is common for those to accumulate in the thread joint around the front of the nut and be difficult for removal of the nut. Try flushing out with some carb cleaner. Use a wire brush on the inside threads of your receiver to remove stubborn shot that is wedged between threads. One of the small stainless steel brushes used on copper pipe fittings works excellent.
    Thanks for the responses.

    I'd REALLY like to get this ready for deer season in MO. I am attempting to remove the barrel nut from the .223 barrel, and I have reached my bench vise's limits in holding the barrel stationary while I use the wrench on the nut. very frustrating.

    I am thinking that I will just order another nut from Midwayusa and call it a day.

    STILL concerned about getting that new barrel to thread. Heat the receiver?

  13. #13
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Called Savage technical support today. They confirmed that the Axis receiver is threaded the same as the standard "small shank" Savage actions. 1 1/16-20 thread pitch, btw.

    My ER Shaw barrel WILL NOT thread into the receiver. My options are to spend the money on a tap ($45 - $100) or try some sort of hot/cold to gain some tolerance between these two pieces. Chase the receiver threads? I want to work on the cheapest part, not sure that's the receiver. I can get a new rifle TOMORROW at Walmart, but the barrel is a limited run.

    Suggestions?

  14. #14
    groaner71
    Guest
    I have no personal experience with this, but I've read a number of threads like this where the new barrel will not thread on with the fix being to knock the peaks off the new barrel threads by using sand paper. Apparently not unheard of with aftermarket barrels. Like I said, no personal experience, but a search for this should come up with some hits.

  15. #15
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by groaner71 View Post
    I have no personal experience with this, but I've read a number of threads like this where the new barrel will not thread on with the fix being to knock the peaks off the new barrel threads by using sand paper. Apparently not unheard of with aftermarket barrels. Like I said, no personal experience, but a search for this should come up with some hits.
    Two approaches, I bought a tap to chase the receiver threads, and I do plan to touch the barrel threads to knock down the peaks of the threads. I do notice that the factory barrel threads have flatter tops to the threads peaks. Final approach will be cold barrel and hot receiver. Don't like that method, its hard to undo.

    Again, thanks for the replies!

  16. #16
    groaner71
    Guest
    Just a thought... Savage may remove the peaks to reduce the chance of galling. Sharp peaks mean thinner metal at that point, and thus more prone to tang the metal at that point due to heat of friction.

  17. #17
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Ok, update. I bought a tap, it delivered last thursday. Yesterday was the first time I picked it up and had time to check the receiver. I ran the tap in, met minor resistance but basically ran the tap all the way in by hand. I didn't think it did much.

    Tried the new barrel. It spins! I got it to thread about 3/4 of the way to the bolt face. Big improvement over the 1/4 turn I could get before. I'll run the tap through at least once more, and clean the receiver threads thoroughly.

    Next step is to airbrush the Gunkote finish on and bake it before final assembly. Looking forward. How does one sell an unfired Savage .223 barrel? Whats the going price?

  18. #18
    Leanman1
    Guest
    Sunday, I busted out the airbrush, regulator, and bottle of matte black Gunkote. It was a little cooler in KC than the recommended 65 degrees, but I had the barrel in the sun and warmed it up with a heat gun before spraying.

    aside from the prep work of planning to get the wife and kids out of the house during the bake, it all went easier than I remember from refinishing a FAL rifle kit.

    I was a little light on the bottom side. No problem! When I discovered in my haste that I'd forgotten the new barrel nut, I just went ahead and resprayed the barrel again.

    First time headspacing with a savage barrel nut. Hope I did it right. Test fire and picking an optic are next.

    overall length is 37". Big smile!

  19. #19
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    If you have go/no go gauges that you want to sell or rent to me...please PM me.

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