Reply With QuoteThey must have fazed out the old style trigger.
This is my first post here. Just picked up my new Stevens 200 in .308 on Thursday. When I broke it down I saw that it had a trigger assembly that looked more like the axis/edge. It has a coil spring in the rear and no piano wire or adjuster. The hole with the trigger spring is filled with torque seal. Has anyone seen this change yet? Can I adjust it like a rifle basix or just do one of the various upgrades found on the Internet? It looks as if the rear hole has a set screw recessed in it. Don't want to remove the inspectors torque seal unless I know I can adjust it because of warranty concerns. Thanks for any insight in advanced.
They must have fazed out the old style trigger.
I just bought a new Stevens (made on november 22, 2011 at least that was stamped on the box) and was able to swap in an accutrigger from a savage model 12. I had to take the safety screw from the Stevens and put it in the accutrigger so the safety would work. The base on the Stevens trigger looked the same as the accutrigger. I put a sharp shooter supply trigger on the model 12.
Here are a couple pictures of my trigger.
When I took a close look at the trigger return spring, it looked like the top coil was turne upwards as a means to locate the springin a hole in the trigger housing. That makes me not want to clip the coil like others are doing to their axis. On a side nt does anyone know where I could buy an accutrigger for less than an aftermarket replacement? Or for that matter any new factory parts (besides brownells or mdway)?
Exactly the same trigger I just swapped out. I wish I could tell you where to buy accutrigger parts.
Did some more disassembly and removed the trigger spring. There is no set screw. The spring is threaded in the hole and seems pretty stable in there. I bottomed out the spring on reassembly, but didn't feel a difference in pull weight. Not that there would be much from 1/10 of a milimeter deeper spring set. You can see the trigger spring in the picture has the upturn like I thought, so cutting the spring wont be of much help because making the super short 90* turn isnt simple. Any suggestions?
I took a dremmel, and cut the trigger down 1/3 the thickness where the spring threads into the trigger. That will give you alot more adjustment. It's drastic but it works. And if you don't like it, you'll pobably replace it anyway.
Good thinking. I may do that. If it goes to hell I'll it's replace it anyway.Originally Posted by r29l20
That spring is the same spring that is used in the rimfire rifles. (MKII/93R) It is kind of heavy. Did they still use the 1 piece safetyor did they use the 2 piece safety found on accu-trigger guns?
This is my first savage so I'm gonna say the same old one piece. It looks like what I was expecting and is identical to the photos of older savage and Stevens rifles.
to give you an idea of how much you can reduce the pull weight by spring modification, set the trigger to sear without the spring in place and check the pull weight. The pull will end up more than this measurement ( have to have some spring weight to return the trigger) but a least you will have an idea if the mods will be worth the trouble
Great idea, will try that tonite. Thank you.
I bought a new 111FCXP3 just after boxing day, and today decided to see if I could adjust the trigger weight a bit. Well once I took a closer look it seems I have the same trigger as this thread shows, is this normal for a 111?
And this being the case would a SAV-1 trigger from Rifle Basix work with this setup if I decide to replace the stock trigger?
SAV-1 should work.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
Rather than grinding the top face of the trigger down, you could use a drill bit and counterbore the hole to varying depths untill you find the right preload? ***Make sure that when you cycle the action the the trigger seer maintains full engagement***
I dont know that it would work, as it is ment to use the side spring use on the older actions.
Pretty sure all replacement triggers do away with the piano wire and use a coil spring anyway.
I did away with the side spring on my single shot 112 FVSS-S I only use from a bench. I removed the overtravel set screw and opened up the hole so a bearing ball just a bit larger than the threaded hole would sit down almost flush with the top of the trigger next to the safety. Then using a spring that just fit into the threaded hole under the ball bearing with a new very short set screw have a trigger I can get it safely down to 16 oz. with no slam fire or bump fire. And by playing with the spring length I was even able to keep the overtravel where I like it.
I only plan on leaving it this way only until I replace it with a Rifel Basix or SSS. Mainly did it just because I wanted to see if I could.
Also is it possible to replace the trigger with a stock Savage accutrigger? If so, do people post these for sale frequently? And if so, what are they usually worth?
I think it is, just need trigger assembly and safety assembly (maybe a few more little things). I emailed sss and they said they had the parts from ok jobs. I emailed about prices, but never heard back. Will try again in a couple weeks.
If it is indeed like the Axis trigger, the hole where the spring sits is threaded. I just did an Axis trigger for a friend by fitting an allen screw into the threaded hole and using a spring from a ball point pen to thread down over the allen screw. After cutting the spring down a half turn at a time, I got a 3.25 # pull. I could have gone lower, but I only had one suitable spring and didn't want to go too far. My buddy was happy with the reduction from 6# to 3.25#.
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