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Thread: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

  1. #1
    Inthenameofweez
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    Savage Super Sporter .30-06


    Hello all!! I'm hoping there are some antique lovers that can appreciate this rifle. Otherwise, maybe someone can offer some assistance in diagnosing my firing issue.

    I just inherited (Christmas gift) a Savage Super Sporter .30-06 from my grandfather. The style and serial number (8184) hint to be a pre-1936 production. I've disassembled and cleaned/oiled everything and took it to the range this morning. I know this rifle is not all original, but as I understand these rifles to not bring a lot of money from collectors even in pristine and all original condition. So I'm okay with the alterations. I'm just excited to be hunting deer with the same rifle that my grandfather did. He was my favorite...





    [img width=511 height=768]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/InTheNameOfWeez/Guns/_MG_0069.jpg[/img]


    The first round fired perfectly and was very accurate. However, the bolt would not release and the brass was jammed inside the action. I had the gunsmith on duty help me out, and he originally thought the round was defective and I should call Federal and inquire about a recall or a replacement of my ammo. The round to cause this issue was a 165 grain .30-06 Springfield round from Federal's Fusion series.






    So I reloaded and went back to the range, and had the same thing happen, but not as tight as the first one. I tried another Fusion round, and the same issue occurred, causing a smaller crack than the first, but still present. I tried shooting an old .30-06 round that was left over from 5-6 years ago when he passed away and had been in my backpack, pockets, shelves, and bookcase reminding me to get this gun into clean shape and on to a range so that i could use it this next deer season. I decided to try that round, and there were 0 issues at all. Clean fire, proper bolt release, and a good ejection. The round casing also looks good. I have no idea the grain count or brand, as I don't know where it came from. I then fired 3 rounds of Federal's American Eagle ammunition. Same caliber, but a 150 grain. Those 3 were not as tight as the Fusion, but did still show issues. I fired 6 rounds total. All but 1 jammed the bolt upon attempting to eject the casing. All 6 show a strange pattern that appears to be caused from an impact from inside the casing, and pressing outward onto the barrel. I'm assuming that is what is causing the bolt to become stuck. Every single round except for the single mystery round from ages ago was brand new and off the shelf. No reloads. Never left outdoors. Always in the original box and kept in climate controlled areas.



    As you can see in the picture, the 1st round that I fired actually warped sideways and had the primer blown out of it. I'm glad I was not injured... 4 out of the 6 rounds show the primer moving out.

    So I've found some common marks on the brass and I'm wondering if anyone can give me some pointers. I am completely new to the world of guns and have no understanding of the tolerances that should be adhered to, nor the common failures to cause such an issue. I've searched a bit to try and find a guide to inspecting spent rifle brass for damage and how to diagnose what causes what, but to no avail.



    Could someone point me in the right direction to a guide, and what to lead my gun smith into inspecting prior to anything else? From what I found at this site: http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...aseinspect.cfm
    The most common issue would be a headspacing issue. Is anyone familiar with a common cause for improper headspacing or how to correct it? Am I using incorrect ammo for this rifle?

    Also, you can see that the rifle has been drilled and tapped for a scope. It was unfortunately taken by my uncle before I got a hold of the weapon, so I am not sure what was installed, but are there any ideas as to what I could mount on here? I would not be opposed to using the top mount rather than side, but side is my first preference simply because it's how my grandfather shot.

    Thank you ahead of time for any insight and greetings! ;D I hope someone enjoys the pictures of the rifle. I sure do hope to get it up and running 100% ASAP.

    Clayton

  2. #2
    Eric in NC
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    Re: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

    Easy to check headspace - you need a 30-06 "no-go" gauge. Any gunsmith worth calling a gunsmith should have one on hand and know how to use it (basically if the bolt will close with the no-go gauge in the gun it is not safe to shoot).

    I would suspect headspace first. Other problems could be an oversize chamber (too big around), a LOT of crud or rust in the bore increassing pressure, etc.

    If it is excessive headspace (probably is) it could have come about due to someone swapping the bolt out at some point or just due to wear. Also, although it has been a LONG time since I held a super sporter in my hands, I seem to recall that they locked up at the rear of the bolt - not really a good design for a cartridge as intense as the 30-06. Could be that the action has stretched over time.

  3. #3
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    Re: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

    I wouldnt shoot any modern ammo in it.To me it looks like you are flexing the action upon firing.These are weak actions and you should be handloading on a way way conservative side as to not over pressure the gun and stretch the limits of its original design.Modern ammo such as fusion is for robust actions like a savage 110 or remington 700 .Please be careful and have your smith do a chamber cast and make sure the chamber is good.I dont think this gun was ever designed for anything over a 30-30 winchester.Was grandpa a reloader,because this would surely answer why modern ammo is doing what it was doing.If you have any rounds of his left,have a smith take it apart and try to identify what it was loaded with.
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

  4. #4
    Team Savage jonbearman's Avatar
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    Re: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

    Give us the model number which I suspect is a 340 model number, or is it a model 40?
    Willing to give back for what the sport has done for me!

  5. #5
    Eric in NC
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    Re: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

    Quote Originally Posted by jonbearman
    Give us the model number which I suspect is a 340 model number, or is it a model 40?
    No - it is a Savage SuperSporter. Some similarities to the 340 series but a lot of differences too. This was the "big game" bolt action rifle of the Savage line before the 110s ever came along. Chambered in 30-30 but also 250-3000 etc. and 30-06 as you see. I do think 30-06 was too hot for the action (lots of that back then - Winchester 95's in 30-06 got worn out pretty darn quick).

    Once you have it checked out and determine the actual problem (again it is probably headspace) you can (if you are a handloader) form cases to the "long" chamber and use lighter loads with no problems. Let me know if you want that info once you find out the problem.

  6. #6
    Vintage Savage Guru Mad Dog's Avatar
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    Re: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

    The gun in the pics is a model 40, if it had checkering it would be a model 45.

    I suspect it's just getting really hot loads, them old guns weren't made for real hot loads. Should load about 2 grains light on all old Savages.
    Savage- "never say never".

  7. #7
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Re: Savage Super Sporter .30-06

    I agree with Eric in NC, looks like a headspace issue. A check with a NO GO gauge will either confirm or deny that. From the pictures, is the bolt handle root the only locking lug?
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

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