Reply With QuoteIf it's a Savage the wrench makes it a lot easier.
I would not install one without it.
Terry
It has been suggested that I use an action wrench to remove my barrel. Is it really needed? I have seen some folks using their bench vises with compression blocks. Looks effective to me. Any comments would be greatly appreciated :)
If it's a Savage the wrench makes it a lot easier.
I would not install one without it.
Terry
I just use my bench vise or the barrel vice I made w/blocks...not a single problem in 26 yrs of swapping.
Thanx for the replies and yes it's a stevens 200 action.
How do you tighten the barrel nut while maintaining proper head spacing?Originally Posted by 5spd
I made good oak blocks for the action and use a bench vise. When removing a "factory" barrel, I have a threaded hole for a 1/4"x20
socket head cap screw that I install against the recoil lug, preventing the action from turning ( an idea I got from another member ).
So far, I have always been able to break the new nut loose with a 2' "persuader" without resorting to the "violence" of useing a steel
hammer. Action vices are great if you can justify the cost, and , with a little "operator error", the action can still twist in the vise. This
can't happen with the cap screw installed. When I install the barrel, I put the "go" gauge in, run the barrel down to it, then rotate
back ever so slightly, then tighten the nut to 40 ft lbs. I have also used this method useing a "fired" case, and it has always worked
perfectly. I keep some factory loads arround to make sure they chamber, but I always shoot my reloads. After shooting and everything
is cooled, I make sure my fired cases will "chamber" then neck size only. I don't full length resize until a fired case is tight chambering.
I feel that the only "true" headspace is "zero" headspace, and can only be achieved through "fireforming". Factory loads conform to
"general" headspaceing. It takes a certain amount of mechanical skill to swap barrels and requires some "feel", and understanding of
what headspace is and what it accomplishes. This goes beyond what was asked ::) but it all works for me. Good Shooting Fortune-Jim
Nope, I have installed and removed a few dozen barrels without one. All I use is my benchvise and a set of wood blocks. If you need more proff, Sharp Shooters Supply has installed and removed litterly thousands of barrels without one. They dont even own one. They have a barrel vise. They have also used the same nut wrench from day #1, and they only use 1 wrench.
You hold the action with your other hand.How do you tighten the barrel nut while maintaining proper head spacing?
Yup, nothing to it.You hold the action with your other hand.How do you tighten the barrel nut while maintaining proper head spacing?
I started out my Savage addiction with a barrel nut wrench and a barrel vise.
Had I come here first I would have learned that the barrel vise is NEVER needed and is in fact a vastly inferior way to swap barrels.
No question now, after thousands of barrel swaps, the ACTION wrench with a barrel NUT wrench is the way to go. Any basic setup to hold the barrel will work if you feel the need but I have not used a barrel vise for about a decade now, even though I own several nice ones.
I got an action wrench from Midway dumped the handle and put it in my bench vice. Lock down the action and pop the barrel nut wrench with a big hammer and the barrel screwed right out without the use of a cheater pipe or any other device. I put the action wrench at the edge of the vise so the barrel nut is exposed and can be tightened correctly.
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