Reply With QuoteI use the drywall tape/paper and it works good. If the barrel is stubborn try giving it a little shot of lube/oil under the little gap towards the muzzle end of the nut and let it sit overnight.
I have read using paper or brown suger in a barrel clamp-vise to keep the barrel from slipping. What kind of paper and how is it used? The brown sugar way has me completely baffeled. Maybe just crumble up some cookies, I guess lol
I use the drywall tape/paper and it works good. If the barrel is stubborn try giving it a little shot of lube/oil under the little gap towards the muzzle end of the nut and let it sit overnight.
The grittiness of the sugar would give it more grip to keep the barrel from slipping. I use powdered rosin on my blocks and it grips the barrel very well. You can get a large bag of it from Midway for pretty cheap. I think it's 1lb but it's enough to last for a very long time. I put a light coating of it inside my scope rings too to keep the scope from slipping.
I used the rubber cap that came on my new barrel. Cut the end out of it and slit it on one side and it worked like a charm. Wide electrical tape would probably do the same thing.
I have decided my nut is welded on, and will require purchase of a new rifle. NOTHING works, yet.
Tried a 3 pound dead blow hammer?
Pine tar that is available in most baseball sections in sporting goods stores. That coupled w/ dead blow hammer taps did the job for me.
I thought the same thing once before...http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...hp?topic=37787Originally Posted by carpet1
Brown sugar between the barrel blocks, VERY tight in a bench vise, and a dead blow hammer on the wrench should do the trick.
If the dead blow doesn't work, try a 1-3 pound hand sledge.
Couple real stout whacks will break it loose...
Lock it up good and tight in the barrel blocks, apply a good penetrating oil after a good heating of the barrel nut, allow to sit ovenight, apply some more heat, a heat gun works well for this...dont burn yourself in the process, apply wrench and several blows from a dead blow hammer...
I had the same problem, nothing worked. I finaly put one of those small cutting abrasive discs on a dremel and cut the nut off. Be careful how deep you cut. I made a diagonal cut to just short of breaking through the threads without touching the reciever. That worked. Like the little Scottish short dirk, it was the weapon of last resort.
El Lobo
WOW, brown sugar it is. I tried for 2 days, using everything I could think of. Best vise, rosin, lead shims, you name it. The barrel turned. Spooned some brown sugar on the lead strips, one knock with a hammer, and the stupid nut came loose.
I got this idea from someone else, but it is the "ticket". Drill a hole in your wood block beside the recoil lug on the side it will torque to,
tap it for a 1/4-20 socket head cap screw & install it against the lug. This prevents anything from turning..works great..Jim
How about an action wrench? Doesn't matter if barrel slips in vise with an action wrench ...
An Action wrench is all I use also.Works everytime,with just a couple swings of a 3lb dead blow hammer.Then I just loosen the Action wrench bolts a little and unscrew the barrel.
Action wrench is next purchase, for sure. ;D
Action wrench does help. I like mine but still use the barrel vise as well.
Action wrench is all i use.
The "dead blow" hammer is a waste of time. It's the "shock" of steel on steel that brakes the nut loose. Any good "steel" hammer on the barrel nut wrench will do the trick.
And the nut doesn't have to be that tight when it goes back on. A smack on the nut wrench with the "steel hammer" is all that's needed. Never had one come loose on the 6+ barrels I've replaced. Mark the barrel and action so you'll know for sure. A piece of tape on the barrel (just ahead of the nut) and action with a mark is all you need to tell if it ever moves.
Oz never gave nothing to the Tin Man, that he didn't already have.
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