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Thread: barrel break in ammo?

  1. #1
    karlrudin
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    barrel break in ammo?


    I have recently finished assembling my savage 110 in 7mm08. My question is whether i have to use factory ammo to break in the barrel or can i use loads from a loading manual. I started the loads at the bottom where they recommend and am working up. Figured i could get some load development while i was breaking in the new barrel and brass.

  2. #2
    Basic Member darkker's Avatar
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    I suppose it depends upon what you believe happens when you are "breaking-in" a barrel.
    If you believe that the bore is very rough, and you are going to smooth it out, then for pressures, perhaps your handloads would be useful. If accuracy is you testing goal, then maybe not as useful.
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  3. #3
    Basic Member big honkin jeep's Avatar
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    Sounds like your plan is on track to me.
    A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.

  4. #4
    skypilot
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    I did 125 rounds of factory on a stock factory barrel before I started load testing according to my barrel log.

  5. #5
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    Inasmuch as barrel "break in" was concocted by a competitor of Gale McMillan's in an effort to sell more barrels, I can't see how it would make any difference what ammunition you use to 'break in' a barrel.

  6. #6
    Basic Member scope eye's Avatar
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    Personally the way I break in a barrel is I show em who's boss right off the bat, and start off with hot nasty loads, that gets the barrel right where I want it in no time, hey don't knock it 20 plus custom barrels later it has worked every time.

    Tanks Dean

  7. #7
    Team Savage stomp442's Avatar
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    I usually reload some ammo with a bullet similar to what I want to be shooting in the rifle and start off about 2 grains from max according to the manuals because I want to find the high end accuracy node. For example the last .260 I did I wanted to shoot the 140 Berger vld but since those bullets are so expensive I chose to do break in with the 140 Hornady Amax about half the price of the Bergers. This way I can break in and load develope at the same time and its only a matter of slightly tweaking the load to find the sweet spot on the Bergers once you found a load the rifle likes. I try kill as many birds with one stone as I can and this method works for me.

  8. #8
    Basic Member rjtfroggy's Avatar
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    I start load developement right off the bat. According to one barrel maker a good barrel does not need break in, that is a gimmick to sell more barrels.He said shoot it then clean it for copper build up then shoot some more and don't clean again until it doesn't shoot accurately, then clean again.
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  9. #9
    Basic Member Stockrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjtfroggy View Post
    I start load developement right off the bat. According to one barrel maker a good barrel does not need break in, that is a gimmick to sell more barrels.He said shoot it then clean it for copper build up then shoot some more and don't clean again until it doesn't shoot accurately, then clean again.
    Amen,
    newbie from gr, mi.

  10. #10
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    This is a custom hand lapped barrel.



    This is what a factory button rifled barrels look like.





    Do you think a copper bore brush and copper solvent are going to wear down the ridges and make the bore smoother?

    Below, fire lapping photos, before and after on a "SAVAGE" barrel!



    A British member in another forum once said, "Just shoot the bloody thing".

    After I shoot the bloody thing to break it in, I go home and use foam bore cleaner and let it do all the work.



    Barrel break in is nothing more than a Communist inspired plot to destroy American firearms. ;-)
    Last edited by bigedp51; 08-16-2012 at 12:12 AM.

  11. #11
    M.O.A.
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    ha ha ha dang comies

  12. #12
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    Be careful how much you decide you 'know' from looking at pictures. Savage barrels are frequently some of the roughest I've seen, yet they don't seem to shoot particularly worse than most others. Many of them are awfully nasty foulers, I grant you. Nevertheless, 'break-in' with regular ammo, if you're looking to smooth things out, is really kinda stupid. If you want smooth looking, either pay a 'smith to lap the POS, or call NECONOS and order some lapping bullets. If all you want is a lack of fouling, use Dyna-bore Coat. Don't waste a bunch of time on 'break in,' just shoot the bloody thing.
    Last edited by MZ5; 08-16-2012 at 12:07 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MZ5 View Post
    Be careful how much you decide you 'know' from looking at pictures. Savage barrels are frequently some of the roughest I've seen, yet they don't seem to shoot particularly worse than most others. Many of them are awfully nasty foulers, I grant you. Nevertheless, 'break-in' with regular ammo, if you're looking to smooth things out, is really kinda stupid. If you want smooth looking, either pay a 'smith to lap the POS, or call NECONOS and order some lapping bullets. If all you want is a lack of fouling, use Dyna-bore Coat. Don't waste a bunch of time on 'break in,' just shoot the bloody thing.
    If you don't like my photos, how about a movie.

    Lilja BoreScope Video

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hf9zZqn00CA

  14. #14
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    I liked the photos, and the movie, too. Thanks for (re-?)posting them. I saw them quite some time ago. My comment was to do with conclusions, not the quality or accuracy of the images. My newest Savage has a ludicrously rough barrel, yet I'd have done myself a disservice to draw conclusions upon that basis.

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