Reply With QuoteYou're referring to the Viper PST. It makes a Leupold look second rate, and I've owned alot of Leupolds. I won't buy any more.
Was wondering how the glass is on the Vortex Viper. Had a leupold Mark 4 ert with the tmr reticle and was happy with that scope. Sold setup I had to get the money up to get into sportbike hobby, now its getting cold out Im missing my shooting. My main question is how does the magnification compare between the two. The leupold did great at the 300 yard distance I shoot, meaning on 20 power or more I had no problem seeing my impacts, will the Vortex scope do the same?? Im on a budget and cant afford another 1,900 leupold. Its my understanding that the Vortex is glass etched and is ffp. Milliradian based reticles are simply the only option for me as I will never go back to anything else. The 1/10 adjustments make it a breeze to use. Does anybody have any experince with this scope at 300 yards or more? Think the power is 6-24 if im not mistaken.
You're referring to the Viper PST. It makes a Leupold look second rate, and I've owned alot of Leupolds. I won't buy any more.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Well I like the sound of that, especially with it costing half of a M4 ER/T
Vortex has excellent customer service, it truely is "no BS'.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
Just FYI (and not that it makes a significant difference)...
The Viper PST 6x24 - 50mm is a SFP scope (not FFP as thought).
.22LR * 6.5x47 Lapua * .223 Rem * .308 Win * 260 Rem * Large Cojones!
[I]"I can prove anything by statistics except the truth."[/I]
They make the pst in first and second focal plane
Ive seen it avertise as available in First plane? I refuse to buy a second plane scope and MOA turrets are worthless to me two. Theres a reason why the military uses Milliradian based scopes. They simply work. Learn the math, find the trajectory of your load of choice. It kills me the number of folks that buy mill dot scopes with the thinking the dots are preset hold overs that are suppost to perfectly line up for them. Throw ranging their target into the mix and you get funny looks.
I talked with several snipers that recently came back from the sand box, and they informed me that they very rarely use the mildots for ranging.
One soldier did 3 tours, and I asked him if they used laser range finders over mildots. His answer was "I only used a laser one time...the rest of the ranging is done with satelite maps, gps and range cards..... mildots are last resort."
He informed me that they never went into a hot zone without doing their homework and having several contingency plans. When asked if he preffered milrad or m.o.a., he stated he learned on milrad, his scope is set up for milrad, so that is all he knows.
He is now getting into long range targets shooting, and realizes the benefit of 1/8 m.o.a. clicks, so now he has to learn all over.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
He had the benifit of my tax dollars at his disposal, all the latest gear etc etc. Not taking away from ANYTHING our soldiers do for you and I as Americans. Your right 1/8 moa adjustments are able to dope in smaller adjustments. Hell the standard 1/4 MOA scopes actually offer finer adjustment capabilities than the 1/10 mil scopes. I kno how to use both systems and I am willing to give up that small difference for the ease of use it offers. I dont have access to high end laser rangers or gps ranging or another man sitting next to me measuring wind, temp, humity, shot angle, distance, target speed atmospheric pressure etc etc. Follow up shots are so much easier when you have a scope that matches the reticle and turrets. If You take a shot at 800 yards and say you miss by .7 mil. You did your part u just miss calculated, your load wasnt as flat as you thaught, impact hit low, guess what 7 clicks im there. no math to do. Bet your still trying to do the 1/4 moa math in your head, but probably not cuz Ive already got another round coming down range.
Where people get confused is a mildot reticle coupled with m.o.a adjustments. It wasn't just until lately that scope manufacturers caught on, and offer 1/10 mil adjustments to correspond to a mil dot reticle. Mixing the 2 is like converting english to metric. If you are more versed in m.o.a., then get an m.o.a. reticle,with moa adjustments and vise versa.
The PST moa reticles have lines 2 moa. apart, giving a finer definition than mils.
Use whatever you're comfortable with.
"As long as there's lead in the air....there's still hope.."
Agreed. Ultimately every one is different and some do prefer the moa. All this talk is really got me missing rifle shooting.
All I got to say is my next scope is a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x MOA......
I totally agree. been happy with their product and their custom turrets are great. Been slowly switching scopes over to VortexOriginally Posted by GaCop
moa/moa is finer clicks at a distance or .mil..... mil scope are based in meters, not yards... moa= 1 click @ 100 = .25", mil = 1cm @ 100m
i had the vortex razor mil/mil... the moa is better.. easyer math as well...
800y shot, you miss by 8", i move the turret 1 moa im on...
on a mil, you need .3
Im by no means knocking folks that prefer Moa. What makes no sense is mixing the two. Its like working on 80's and 90's american vehicles with half the bolts being metric and half standard? Why? To me there is not reason other than pissing me off. Ive got a Jap sport bike and guess what... Everything on it is metric, thats the way it should be. Most shooters dont reload. Most think Remingthon core lock makes good target ammo to. Most folks think 1 moa is good shooting. Most folk call 1moa an inch Instead of 1.047 Most folks cant range targets regardless of what there reticle consists of. The millliradian reticle with the 1/10 mill adjustments works for ME. Does what I need it to do from ranging targets on any power cuz I prefer first focal plane to having fun target shooting cuz I buy good glass. But even more important is knowing your load. if you dont kno the speed of your load its hard to figure drop especially at distance. Junk ammo and shit setups and next to nothing shooter knolege and skill will get the job done at close ranges. My advice is find the system that works for you. Get the best glass you can possibly afford, have one go to gun that will outshoot you 8 days a week, develope the best load for that piece. Kno the trajectory for that load so your not pissing in the wind.
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