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Thread: Savage 110 FXP3 Sear Spring and spacer..any Tricks

  1. #1
    Basic Member fla9-40's Avatar
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    Savage 110 FXP3 Sear Spring and spacer..any Tricks


    OK after fighting the sear spring and the spacer and chasing them around the house several times, I thought I'd ask here if anyone has a trick to get the two installed back in the sear!!?? I can get the spring by itself back in, but not both the spacer and spring together.
    I did manage to bend the leg of the spring and will be ordering a new one(OR 12).

    I have searched here and found I'm not the first here, even found where there is a contest on who has shot the spring the furthest and still retrieved it...does not count if you don't find them!!


    Anyone have a trick to do this?

  2. #2
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    i use a 16 penny nail ground down ,line everything up with it and push the pin in could use a drift punch also good luck

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    how odd, I just done one not 5 minutes ago. I use an allen wrench in the opposite side to line it all up. there will be some tension there so dont be afraid to force it in place. I use an allen wrench because there always seems to be one laying around on the work bench

  4. #4
    Basic Member fla9-40's Avatar
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    How/what do you use to press the spring and spacer in to get a drift pin in to align it all up?

  5. #5
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    drift pin, allen wrench,any thing dont have to move it far

  6. #6
    stangfish
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    What spacer?

  7. #7
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    My trick is to use the small needle nose vice grips to compress the spring and then use it to place the spring in position. I have even ground two small depressions into the end of the gripping surface to provide the ends of the spring a place to park

  8. #8
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    im with stang, what spacer?

  9. #9
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    Old ones have a little collar in the middle of the spring

  10. #10
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    i put the pin in the bolt release with the spring already on it, put it in place, then on the opposite side i insert a lineup pin of some sort, press the tigger assembly and bolt release in place and line it up with the lineup pin and shove the pin in. takes about 45 seconds. make sure you have the safety and all in the slot correctly.

  11. #11
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    Rifle basix says put the pin in from the other side to make installation easier, would that work with a standard trigger as well ?

  12. #12
    Basic Member fla9-40's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keeki View Post
    im with stang, what spacer?
    Sorry I meant to say collar not spacer... Thanks Smokey!

    Added Later:

    That brings up another question, since the later models do not have the collar, is it really needed? I know Savage put it there for a reason and all that...
    Last edited by fla9-40; 09-29-2013 at 01:12 PM.

  13. #13
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    I use a pin punch as a slave to align the t-housing, action and sear. I'll insert it maybe a 1/16" or so into the spring cavity, set the spring ( and spacer if used) in then angle it to capture the spring, square it up with the slave then tap the pin in pushing the slave out.



    Easy stuff!!!

    Bill
    Each morning eat a live green toad, it will be the worst thing you'll have face all day.

  14. #14
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    Bill's instructions and pics are always the best.

    I think Fred said they got rid of the collar because it wasn't needed. I always thought it was too small anyway.

  15. #15
    stangfish
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokey262 View Post
    Bill's instructions and pics are always the best.
    Yep!

  16. #16
    Basic Member fla9-40's Avatar
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    I do notice the spring in Bill's pic the legs are WAY longer then the one I have...Maybe that's one of my problem's!

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