Sanity Check-New to reloading the 223AI

[dukeflr]

I've spent the last couple of weeks reading a bunch of posts here and all over the net. Since the 223AI will be my first wildcat, I would feel more comfortable with some advice. I would like to run my plan by y'all and get your criticisms or confirmation before ordering my components in about a week.

I ordered an E.R. Shaw barrel from Gunshack. It is a varmint contour with a 1 in 9" twist. It will be mounted to a SA and bedded to a BVSS stock. I plan on using the Lee FL sizer die when the brass needs it, but the 223rem collet die on a regular basis. I'll be using a forster press and RCBS chargemaster.

I was planning on shooting the 70gr or 75gr VLDs, and the 75gr A-max. Should I even bother trying the 75gr VLD? I suspect it may be too long. The plan was to start out with RL-15 and H4895. Secondary powders would be H380 and Varget.

What is the lightest bullet this barrel will likely shoot well? I would still like to send some 40gr down range once in a while. Should I just buy some vmax and BT and see which the barrel likes? I will have Benchmark, H335 and H4895 for the lighter bullets.

I have a ton of Federal brass on hand. It is once fired, with the crimped primer pocket. I'll de-crimp the Primer Pocket with my Dillion super swage. If I loose some to fireforming or after a few reloadings, no big deal. I have a bunch.

I was going to fireform by loading a 40gr about 1 grain less than 223rem max, and seat it .010 into the lands. Maybe it won't be long enough, and I'll have to fireform with one of the longer bullets. I'll make up a couple of dummy rounds after the rifle is assembled and adjust my plan from there.

Feel free to give any tips or tricks you've learned. Any loads you're willing to share would be good too. I fully understand that I need to work up to my rifle's max, which may be lower than others. Speaking of max loads; What is typically the first pressure signs with the 223AI? The normal stuff like sticky bolt and flattened primers? I did read where someone had sticky extraction, but no other signs. Is it best to begin working up a load just under the original 223 max with the formed brass and increase the charge by .2 grains at a time?

Thanks in advance,
Duke

[GaCop]

I've spent the last couple of weeks reading a bunch of posts here and all over the net. Since the 223AI will be my first wildcat, I would feel more comfortable with some advice. I would like to run my plan by y'all and get your criticisms or confirmation before ordering my components in about a week.

I ordered an E.R. Shaw barrel from Gunshack. It is a varmint contour with a 1 in 9" twist. It will be mounted to a SA and bedded to a BVSS stock. I plan on using the Lee FL sizer die when the brass needs it, but the 223rem collet die on a regular basis. I'll be using a forster press and RCBS chargemaster.

I was planning on shooting the 70gr or 75gr VLDs, and the 75gr A-max. Should I even bother trying the 75gr VLD? I suspect it may be too long. The plan was to start out with RL-15 and H4895. Secondary powders would be H380 and Varget.

What is the lightest bullet this barrel will likely shoot well? I would still like to send some 40gr down range once in a while. Should I just buy some vmax and BT and see which the barrel likes? I will have Benchmark, H335 and H4895 for the lighter bullets.

I have a ton of Federal brass on hand. It is once fired, with the crimped primer pocket. I'll de-crimp the Primer Pocket with my Dillion super swage. If I loose some to fireforming or after a few reloadings, no big deal. I have a bunch.

I was going to fireform by loading a 40gr about 1 grain less than 223rem max, and seat it .010 into the lands. Maybe it won't be long enough, and I'll have to fireform with one of the longer bullets. I'll make up a couple of dummy rounds after the rifle is assembled and adjust my plan from there.

Feel free to give any tips or tricks you've learned. Any loads you're willing to share would be good too. I fully understand that I need to work up to my rifle's max, which may be lower than others. Speaking of max loads; What is typically the first pressure signs with the 223AI? The normal stuff like sticky bolt and flattened primers? I did read where someone had sticky extraction, but no other signs. Is it best to begin working up a load just under the original 223 max with the formed brass and increase the charge by .2 grains at a time?

Thanks in advance,
Duke

I'm shooting a 2323AI with the 1 in 8 twist barrel. My son has a 1 in 9 twist 223 Rem and his rifle handles the 75 gr A-Max very well. The VLD probably won't stabilize well in the 1/9 twist so stick with the A-Max. I get very good accuracy with the 52 gr SMK in the 1/8 twist AI so it should do well in your rifle.

Due to the straight walled case of the AI, pressure signs don't show up until a load is considerebly above what is the norm. I back off when I start getting sticky bolt lift. Your idea of starting just below the max 223 Rem load is the same procedure I use. My AI is a bench rifle so I work up loads 1/10th grain at a time but there's nothing wrong with using 2/10th grain. Once you get an accurate load, play with the seating depth to see if groups will tighten up. Some of my accurate loads are jammed .020".

My brass choice is strictly commercial, ie, Lapua, Winchester and RP in that order. Military crimped brass I reserve for my M4gery. I use a lot of Varget and H4895 in my loads. I've tried RL-15 with good results but being a temperature sensitive powder, it would be wise to work up your loads in warmer weather to preclude any problems. I'm loading the 52gr SMK, 69 gr SMK, 70 and 75 gr Berger VLD and 75 gr A-Max along with the 80 gr SMK and VLD. I love the 223 AI, so easy to form brass.

[dcloco]

Ditto with GaCop said.

When you set the headspace on your rifle, you should not have to leave the COAL ten thousandths long to fireform with. AI rounds should have a slight crush fit on the parent cartridge neck.

One grain under max for any powder is perfect for fireforming. DON'T waste the powder/bullets on fireforming though, they are usually VERY accurate.

H4895 and Benchmark work rather well in 223 AI's with a variety of bullet weights. RL15 is excellent with the 75 gr bullets. Follow Ga's advice though.

[dukeflr]

Thanks Guys,

A few more questions. Do you think it will be a near waste of time using the Federal crimped brass? I have never bought 223 brass because I have a good supply of this stuff. I can live with throwing a few cases away now and again. I don't want inconsistent loads though.

I was going to set the headspace using a 223ai go-gauge. Do yo think it is better to just full size a regular 223rem case and set the headspace for a slight crush fit? That way I won't need to jam the bullet, correct?

Thanks again

[savageboy]

Personally I would Always use the gages.
Also, My 223AI is 1:14 so much that you want to do/ shoot out of it dosn't apply, however, I was surprised to see how well the 60gr. Sierra HP varmiter shot, it obviously likes the 50's and 55's, but its best to try bullets, you may be surprised. H4895 is my powder of choice- my barrel likes it and I have alot of it.
Personally, I use new Win. brass for the AI and LC, etc. for the .223 AR's, just to keep it seperate. Also, Im starting fresh for the fireform forming, never have once lost a piece of brass doing it that way

[dcloco]

Different lots of brass will vary, but my experience with FC brass has been terrible.

I have used new, 1x fired, military, etc....all of the FC headstamp. Now, whenever I see FC headstamp, it goes in the brass bucket.

My preference is Remington, LC, Winchester, Nosler, Lapua, Speer, etc...in other words, anything but FC.

Use the 223 AI go gauge if you have one.