Post your wood finishing techniques here:
Mine is as follows.

Sand the stock to at least 400 grit. (600 grit for the stock to recoil pad making sure the plastic part of the recoil pad is nice and smooth)

Remove the recoil pad and apply the initial sealer coat of 1 part tung oil to 5 parts mineral spirits. Not applying to areas I will be steel bedding.(Approxiamately 2 tablespoons of mixture)

Reattach recoil pad and begining with 400 grit wet sand paper and 1 part tung oil to 3 part mineral spirits mixture.(one tablespoon of mixture) Repeat this process with 400 grit untill the stock is completely filled (laminates 2-3 times and depending on wood as many as 20)then begin with 600 grit untill it is as smooth as glass.(laminates 5-8 times and wood can take up to 20 times) Wait two full days between coates. Tape the recoil pad during this phase leaving the plastic spacer exposed.

Bed the action at this point. This prevents bedding material from filling the pores. Even when I have tried tape at an earlier phase I would alway get bedding material in a few pores and if done at this phase of the finishing process its easy to wipe of the bedding material with wite vinegar.

With 600 grit sand paper soaked in mineral spirits lightly sand all build up from the recoil pad area. This is where the sludge will collect during the wet sanding period.

Then topcoat this is Mix 1 part Danish oil with 2 parts mineral spirits or use straight truoil. (teaspoon of mixture)Dip fingers in to mixture and apply to stock and rub in with the palm of your hand working small sections at a time when completed use a lint free cloth and wipe of the stock. Let dry out of the sun for two days and repeat. Do this untill satisfied with the depth of the shine. Yes it will be looking like glas after 10 or so coats and even if you want a satin non gloss finish keep going untill you are satisfied. (I am never satisfied so I will go up to 20 coates on some stocks) Yes do this even if you want a nonglare finish it will give depth to the wood.

Wait at least a week before topcoating.

For non gloss or semi gloss finish soak a felt pad with boild linseed oil using a saltshaker apply pumice stone to the pad rub the stock down using the felt pad the more you rub the duller the shine will get after rubbing down the stock using a cloth dampened down with mineral spirits wipe off the residue and linseed oil. I do it it lightly the first time to see how the wood reacts and then depending on the shine repeat untill satisfied. Once done let dry for 2 weeks and apply stock wax and install the action into the stock. (The same results can be achieved using a baby diaper and Brownells triple F stock rubbing commpound wipe of the excessive compound in the same matter as the pumice stone)

For high gloss finish soak a felt pad with boiled linseed oil and using a saltshacker apply rhotten stone to the pad and rub down the entire stock untill it is smooth. Wipe off exessive oil and rhotten stone with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Then apply by hand 1 part danish oil to 1 part mineral spirits wiping down with a clean soft cloth. Once done wait two weeks and apply stock wax and install the action. (The rhotten stone and feltpad can be substitued with Brownells 5F stock rubbing compound)

(Safet warning: Wear a dust mask when working with Pumice or Rhotten stone this is a fine dust like abbrasive material and will tear up your lungs and the inhalation of large quantities of dust can be fatal.)

The Tung oil I use is Old Master and can be purchased from Brownell Old Masters
It must be a 100% pure tung oil most tung oil sold at hardware stores are not 100% pure and will not fill the pores appropriately.
The Danish oil is from Lawer Custom Weapons Danish Oil Yes the makers of Duracoat.
The felt pad are from Brownell or Midway depending who has them on sale.
Stock wax I use is Gale Lock
Boil linseed oil and mineral spirit can be bought at Lowell or Home depot and is in the laquer and stripper are of the paint section.Baby diapers are from BabysRUs.
Brownells stock rubbing compound is from you guess

I know this is a long process but well worth it. So why do I do it.
1. The finish is in the wood not on it and the wood becomes virtually waterproof and protected from the harshes elements. Many of wooden ship has been soaked in tung oil and it is not uncommon to find wood on ship that have been sunk for 100s of years.
2. Does not show scratches, gouges and scuffs as bad as polyurathane. And in most cases can be rubbed out with stock rubbing compound at worst case a wet sanding of the area with a tung oil mineral spirits mixture will remove the scratch or fill a gauge easily. Poly usually means resanding the entire stock.
3. Poly is just two hard on my ceckering tools. It dulls it faster because of the fillers within the poly plus if you mess up checkering a poly stock it is real hard to hide or fix the flaw with out resanding the stock.

Other Recomendation:
Anually strip the wax used through out the year with mineral spirits and hund rub a 1 part danish oil to 1 part mineral spirits mixture in the stock to keep it nice and shiny reapply stock wax after the oil dries for a week. For non-gloss use tung oil instead of danish oil.