Reply With QuoteJust a barrel.
You might need to mess with the feed lips a bit but I doubt it. It should be a straight swap.
What do I need to swap a 270 to a 308 barrell. I have a 110 in 270 and want to change to 308, can I buy a barrell kit or do I need to purchase other tools and parts.
Just a barrel.
You might need to mess with the feed lips a bit but I doubt it. It should be a straight swap.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
Are you wanting to keep the same barrel taper? I'm going to assume its the sporter barrel. cant remember what taper they call it. Are you wanting a factory savage barrel or a target barrel? Only thing you should need is a barrel nut wrench and a headspace gauge.
Wood
just want to do a factory barrell swap, the wrench and head gauge should come with the barrell kit right?
if it is the factory barrel, there is a very strong chance you will also need an action wrench and possilby a new barrel nut. Some of the nuts from the factory are installed by godzilla, and are very, very stubborn to remove. I had to have an action wrench, and still ended up with the barrel coming off and the nut still attached.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Never heard of a barrel kit. You will need to buy separate guages. And yes, a nut wrench and action wrench to get the nut off. And yes, the little 5 ft old lady that tightens the barrel nuts name is Mary Godzilla.
El Lobo
El Lobo, I think he has been looking at those Shaw kits that midway is selling that come with the nut wrench and gauges.
Jpowell, yes one of those kits should be all you need plus a bench vice and wood blocks or an action wrench.
204, 22 K-Hornet, 222, 223, 22-250, 22-250AI, 6BR, 243, 243AI, 6-06, 6-WSM, 250-3000AI, 270, 7-08, 7RM, 30BR, 308, 30-06, 375 H&H, 444 Marlin, 450BM, 458WM
Now lookie here El Lobo....Her name is Mary Mothra! That's because each and every barrel that comes down the pike she spits her special "Mothra" juice on it and then just "wing tightens" 'em. Then further down the line, Gretta Godzilla puts the finishing touches to the barrel torque. Between the spit and the torque, it can take a dremmel and a torch to get those barrels to just budge.Originally Posted by ellobo
At the end of the week the "Girls" review this very site and then stop at the bar for a few cold ones to celebrate.
I've heard this......don't ask me how.
Dave
What I have done several times(re-barreled 5 guns now), although I can't remember where I first read this, is to buy some factory ammunition. Put a factory shell in the barrel, close the bolt and screw on the barrel. When you feel the brass JUST touch in the chamber, stop and tighten the nut. You DO NOT want to have the shell jammed into the chamber. This will give you a head space on the conservative side, which is better than the alternative.
I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.
I am looking at kits from Browells, seem complete but who knows. should i spend 200+ or should I purchase a AXIS for 300, i am happy with the 223 edge i own. The 110 is the best rifle made, rem 700's are rebar material. I need to know if swapping the barrell is worth the cash or just purcahse a 308 used and sell my old girl 270.
Since you already have a 110 LA Savage, I would suggest becoming a paid site member ($12.00 ?). That would give you access to the classified section. Members list unfired .308 takeoff barrels all the time for around $75 and lightly used barrels for around $55.00. You can also put a WTB post and I'm sure someone on this site has a .308 barrel they are willing to sell. Or, you can check with Northland Shooter Supply (site vendor) and buy a new Savage Factory barrel for around $80.00. Then all you need is a barrel nut wrench, oak blocks and a vice, or action wrench. I would also swap out the recoil lug while your at it. I'd recommend getting a set of GO and NO-GO gages for accurate head spacing and personal safety. Jim at NSS has everything you will need and he can be a great source of information. As a member, you will also have access to technical articles on how to do a barrel swap and much more... And if you don't need those tools for future barrel swaps, you can sell them when finished in the classified section on this site. You can use the same tools to swap barrels on your Savage Edge/Axis. Good luck and have fun.
jpdown +1
Wood
I would have to disagree with Darkker. Using a loaded round is too risky, unless you are going to pull the bullet and knock out the primer. Depending on where you live, you might find a member of this fine group to help you or loan you the tools.
I'll agree with whit, but for a different reason. Factory sized brass is often quite undersized. It will probably fire and eject just fine, but when you go to size your brass the die won't touch most of it. Then you'll have to re-set your headspace again, fire, and repeat until you get the headspace set to a FL sized piece of brass.
I tried setting the headspace on a 220 Swift with factory sized brass. I had to fire, size, headspace two times to get the headspace set correctly.
My advice is to use only fired and sized brass or a headspace guage for setting headspace.
"Muzzle velocity is a depreciating asset, not unlike a new car, but BC, like diamonds, is forever."-German A. Salazar
I'm hoping Darker was just kinda vague, but yeah a loaded round is not the best idea. Fired brass works good for the job though.
Midway had some nice prices on ER Shaw threaded barrels.
This +1....
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