Mounting scope with no "cant" in the reticule

[Deserthunter]

I seem to have a hard time mounting my scopes, so that the reticule is perfectly level on the weapon..... When I thighten down one set of screws, even though I torque each screw only a small amount each time, on each side, I still seem to get the reticule pulled in one direction or the other. Sometimes taking a number of times to get it close (level). Is there a better way to ensure the reticule is level?

Thanks,
Desert

[savageboy]

I have had the exact same problem for years. I get the action level to the scope, tighten it and it looks "wrong", so I get it as close as possible and then adjust it "by eye" so it looks good. I shoot at 1000yds and it has seemed to work out ok.

[Blue Avenger]

different brand of rings or lapping them may help. you using a brand that grips hard and leave a mark in the tube when removed?

[pa hog]

What kind of rings are you using? I use Burris Signature Zee's and have no problems.

[warthog97]

Try using the wheeler engineering Level-Level-Level and Burris Signature rings

[Hammer]

.

A scope cannot be mounted level.

It is one of Newton's Laws.

.

[Uncle Jack]

+1

I think that it is also against God's will.

"No man shall have a perfectly alligned scope."

uj

[Deserthunter]

Very Good -- I was just hoping that the devil had a short cut to making that silly line level......

I either use Leupold or Farrell rings and bases... My Savage12FLV uses a Farrell 20moa base. None of the scopes has ever been scratched or been out of alignment. I've got one Leupold 3.5x10AO that's been mounted and unmounted 8-10 times and there isn't a mark on it in the 20 or so years I've had that particular scope... Once in a while I'll get lucky but most of the time it's pure chance.... I use a Wheeler Engineering "Level-Level-Level" and I can still see a degree or so that the scope is out sometimes..... Just thought someone might have a magic formula.....

[Scalian]

http://www.hollandguns.com

Go to articles then to RETICLE PERPENDICULARITY. Is a good article another reason to go shooting.

[Don - LongRangeSupply]

I find that if I try to get the reticle plumb by eye it never is actually plumb. No idea why but that is how it works out for me. When it looks right with the rifle on my shoulder it never is.

After finally realizing this, I use a bubble level on the rail and a plumb line to set the the reticle so they are aligned as close to perfect as I can get them.

If I then shoulder the rifle and look through it, virtually ALL the time the reticle appears canted when in fact it is not.

As for the scope rotating when you tighten the ring top screws, that is very common. You need to monitor the reticle alignment to the plumb line and check the bubble level o the rail constantly as you tighten the screws. It can be pretty frustrating sometimes but if you get it plumb to the rail once, then you never need to do that again unless you loosen the ring tops for some reason. You can move it from one rail to another and it will remain plumb.

[Deserthunter]

Scalian -- the article was very good, and I'll try his "check" and "fix" at the range in a day or so... Thanks,

[rjtfroggy]

Line the cross hairs up with a level line on a wall and tighten the screws in a criss cross fashion like the lug nuts on a wheel so you don't over togue to one side and the torgue should be 18-20 in/lbs. for the screws.

[pdog06]

Line the cross hairs up with a level line on a wall and tighten the screws in a criss cross fashion like the lug nuts on a wheel so you don't over togue to one side and the torgue should be 18-20 in/lbs. for the screws.

+1

I do this and also have a level on the base.... I also have a level-level-level and it works good as long as you get the piece that goes in the reciever sitting correctly(not on the mag lips ::))

Bad thing is it still looks canted because i cannot for the life of me setup my target level while at the range :D ::).

[dolomite_supafly]

These are what I use, the 223 case is there for comparison:

[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2561.jpg[/img]

I level the gun on a horizontal plane. Then I place on of these little levels on the receiver, one on the scope rings (if they aren't rounded) and finally one on the elevation turret or cap of the scope.

Example:
[img width=600 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v446/Adyth/Firearms%20related/IMG_2563.jpg[/img]

When they all look the same the scope is mounted level to the receiver, cheap and easy.

Dolomite

[GaCop]

Gordon,

Where did you find those neat bubble levels?

Tom

[EFBell]

Don't you guys ever go to the article and product review pages?

[EFBell]

http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=DeadEye Scope Leveler Review

[Blue Avenger]

hardware stores, lowes, menards...

[dolomite_supafly]

Gordon,

Where did you find those neat bubble levels?

Tom

Check your email

Dolomite

[dolomite_supafly]

http://savageshooters.com/index.php?articleview=DeadEye Scope Leveler Review

I think you link is dead.

Dolomite

[EFBell]

Yep, something wrong with it. Just go to the main page under optics reviews articles.




Or go here to the manufacturer. http://www.deadeye2.com/

[r29l20]

Just found this post. My 2cts. Back in the 70's Bushnell & TC. had scope rail tubes so you could only mount it one way. I thought that was the perfect fix. I set my cross hairs so they are right for me when I mount my rifle, never had a problem. Also my eyes have diff. axis's if it's right for my left eye, it's way off for my right. ???

[Don - LongRangeSupply]

If the RETICLE (a reticULE is a fishnet womans purse by the way) is in fact "plumb" it will appear slightly canted to almost everyone when the rifle is shouldered. I found that if it looks plumb when shouldered it rarely is.

FYI using the top of a an adjustment cap to level a reticle isn't always going to work. I have seen some cap tops that were WAY out of alignment from the reticle.
GENERALLY....the flat surface on the bottom of the turret housing is usually going to be plumb with the reticle as that is the reference point they use when installing the reticle, but even that is a crap shoot sometimes with cheaper scopes. With a good scope you can use feeler gauges between the top of the scope rail and the flat on the bottom of the turret housing and get VERY close to a perfectly plumb reticle. Just stack up the shims until you can tell that the two surfaces are parallel to each other.

I always use the top of the rail with a bubble level rather than some point on the action, as my plumb reference that way I can move the scope from one rifle to another and it will be trued to the rail surface regardless of where I end up mounting it. Then I use a plumb line to get the reticle perpendicular to the rail top. You can "plumb" a line on your target backstop by simply using a carpenters level to align a bold black line drawn on a piece of paper. The Deadeye reticle leveling tools are the quickest to use and are worth the investment if you do a lot of scope mounting. They come with a portable "plumb line" and a level for your rifle.

Granted not all rails will be 100% true in relation to the action / bore but then not all action flats or bolt lug raceways are either. The key is to have A reference point with which to plumb the reticle that will be consistent. The top of the rail works well enough for me for 1500 meter shooting.

[Shootinsurveyor]

Feeler guage method from the guys over ay Snipershide

[jsteag]

If the rings are not in perfect alignment it becomes imposible to tightenment the rings with out throwing things ascue.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...Alignment_Tool

I use a hight quality one peice base