Reply With QuoteThe gunk that came on my trigger sear engagement looked like moly grease. The Stevens 200 triggers arent bad, just heavy. But I replaced all of mine with adjustable triggers, still cheaper than a "Savage."
The wife shocks me by telling me she wants her own rifle for deer season. Not wanting to spend a fortune I bought her a 200 in .308. Got it in and the trigger is horrible. I took it apart and found gunk all over the mechanism. I cleaned it up and oiled it and and was amazingly shocked how it now feels. I have two Model 10s with accu-trigger and this 200 trigger is very close to the accu-trigger. I did adjust the screw on it for tension. But only check the trigger if you feel comfortable working on it. If you don't take it to a gunsmith. I am talking serious gunk folks.
The gunk that came on my trigger sear engagement looked like moly grease. The Stevens 200 triggers arent bad, just heavy. But I replaced all of mine with adjustable triggers, still cheaper than a "Savage."
You can only do so much with the one screw Stevens trigger. In the long run, aftermarket is the way to go OR an older three screw trigger from Jim at Northland shooter supply.
Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67
what I am getting at for the wife's purposes its not bad at all.
..Change out the trigger wire for some .040 music wire & it'll be alot better..
Enjoy that new rifle. :)
You got a 200 Stevens for your wife? Man that was a good trade! :)
Any clod can have the facts; having opinions is an art.
Thank God she doesn't know this forum exist.............
Definitely change the L shaped trigger wire for a lighter one. I got some wire from Jerry (243shooter) and did my first couple. Then I ran out of wire and started using the wire from a buzzbait. Some Stevens can be adjusted well and some are so gritty that only a gunsmith or replacement trigger will do. I have lost count of how many trigger wires I have replaced, and only one wasn't useable with a new wire. I still prefer to swap out with a Savage 3-screw trigger from Northland.
Thing is I am trying to keep this on the "cheap" she get's these ideas but doesn't stick with it. So I put a low cost gun together and makes her happy for a lil while. Rather buy her guns than jewelry or stuff from VS (total waste of money). I am happy with how the trigger turned out. I won't be shooting it anyway. I have a 16 in 260 and a 10 PC in .308 to play with.
I was testing my S200 trigger because it was way heavy, I found that on mine with the screw tension on the wire loosened the sear notch was enough for the safety to function , a drop test passed and still relatively heavy but not way heavy.
You're asking for trouble by only backing out the screw on the trigger spring. This screw needs a significant arch to it to reset the sear so it seats properly. Also make sure the spring is in the notch it is supposed to ride in to help prevent further unwanted adjustment. Any good hardware store should have some .040 music wire (spring steel wire) or I'm sure someone here would send you a piece if you asked. Put the screw back in the position it came in and a little more( to make up for the diameter difference in the wire) and use the lighter spring. (it's about the geometry) The adjustment you have made can be very dangerous and lead to a discharge when taking off the safety or if it's not on when closing the bolt.
Please heed my warning.
BHJ
A good wife and a steady job has ruined many a great hunter.
Congratulations on your rifle. If your wife is happy, you will be happy as well.
Here's the link to 243shooter's offer of .040"spring wire. He is legit.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...c,25681.0.html
You can search the web on ways to lighten up your trigger. I would not file any engagement surfaces because they are surface hardened and if you cut through the hardened part, you will end up with fast-wearing softer steel.
Polish anything that rubs, use just a bit of Moly powder, Moly grease or anti-seize (graphite grease) on the sear itself.
Initially, before I did anything, and after making sure my rifle was unloaded and totally safe, I worked the engagement surfaces by cocking and dry firing about a hundred times.
Here's a summary of what I did to my Stevens 200 to improve the trigger.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...html#msg294803
With respect to backing out the trigger spring adjustment screw, I backed it out a lot, but one must make sure that there is some (enough) tension on the spring to maintain tension so that the trigger sear resets completely. After any sear adjustment, make sure the safety fully works. I had to readjust my safety adjustment screw about a quarter of a turn to ensure proper functioning of the safety. I beat my rifle in every direction, hit it hard with a rubber mallet, slammed the bolt home hard both with and without the safety on. I am fully confident that my rifle is safe for the field.
I also spent some time polishing a lot of the bolt surfaces that rub.
I am working on the bolt lift issue right now. I've tried the .38 brass and ball bearing, and will try the thrust bearing and spacer next. What I think would really help would be a cocking pin with all the engagement surfaces on ball bearings. Not sure if that is possible.
I, too like to tinker and improve things for little cost (but often, lots of time!). It's fun and if you know your limits, and follow appropriate safety procedures, safe.
I hope my posts are helpful. YMMV.
My advice is free and hopefully, worth every penny :)
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