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Thread: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD ****UPDATE***

  1. #1
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    BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD ****UPDATE***

    FIRST AND FOREMOST I THINK THAT MY STOCK HAS ALOT OF TENSION IN IT. I DONT KNOW HOW BUT IT JUST SEEMS LIKE IT DOES AFTER I GOT IT BACK FROM BEDDING. TODAY I WAS MESSING WITH THE DAMN CENTERFEED MAG IN MY RIFLE. I CANT TIGHTEN THE REAR SCREW DOWN TO THE PROPERLY WITHOUT THE BOLT CYCLING EXTREMLY HARD. SO I TOOK THE STOCK OFF WENT TO WORK. I GOT THE MAG DOWN WHERE I THOUGHT IT NEEDED TO BE AND SLAPPED IT BACK TOGETHER. I WAS TRYING TO TIGHTEN THEM A LITTLE BACK AND FORTH AND TRYING TO KEEP THE BOLT CYCLING CLEAN. WELL SOME HOW I TIGHTENED THE FRONT SCREW SO THAT NOW THE BOLT WONT OPEN. NOT ONLY THAT THE HEAD STRIPPED WHEN TRYING TO BACK IT OUT.

    SO WHAT DAMAGE COULD I HAVE DONE?
    WHAT SIZE SCREWS DO I NEED TO CHANGE THESE CHEAP BASTARDS OUT?
    HOW CAN I TELL IF THE STOCK IS UNDERSTRESS?
    IF IT IS SHORT OF THROWING THIS THING OFF A CLIFF HOW DO I FIX IT?

  2. #2
    r29l20
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Yes your action is under stress. You should be able to tighten the screws down tight and not change how the action sets in the stock. The screw size is 1/4-28. Did you loosen the rear screw first, that might help you get the front screw loose. Also make sure the front screw isn't to long, and binding on the bolt lug. Just steep back and take a deep breath, you didn't do anything that hasn't been done before. Who did the bedding? Maybe they bedded it without the L clip. Try putting it back together without it.You are among friends we'll try and get you through this. Good luck.

  3. #3
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    A LOCAL GUY DID THE BEDDING. THE MAG WAS SHIMMED IN WITHOUT THE L CLIP. I TOOK THE REAR SCREW OUT AND THE FRONT STILL WONT BUDGE. I WILL HAVE TO TAP THE SRCEW AND REVERSE THREAD IT OUT I GUESS.

  4. #4
    r29l20
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Give this a try, find a flat blade screw driver tip the quick change kind, that fits tight in the stripped out hole, tap the tip in so it sticks, then tap and turn at the same time. This has saved me countless times.

  5. #5
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    If that doesn't work give this a try...

    Use a dremel and a small diamond type stone and remove the head, then the stripped action screw's shank will be left and you can lift the barreled action out of the stock and just grab the screw's shank with vice grips and remove it. Takes some patience but it will work. I have removed quite a few bolts and screws that way.

    Just an idea. May be easier depending on what tools you have available and may be less chance of stock and action damage?
    Go Wildcat, or Go Home!

  6. #6
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    OK THANKS GUYS HEADED OUT TO THE BENCH.

  7. #7
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    ALRIGHT GOT IT OFF. I HAD TO GO A DIFFERENT ROUTE THAT I DONT WANT TO TALK ABOUT. AS FAR AS THE SCREWS IS THAT BOTH AT THE SAME SIZE.

  8. #8
    Basic Member bootsmcguire's Avatar
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Glad you got it out. Both are 1/4-28 I believe.
    Go Wildcat, or Go Home!

  9. #9
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Correct, front is about 1 1/4" and the rear 1 1/2" I use the bolts from True Value or Ace Hardware. They're stronger than the factory bolts. I just had a rear factory action bolt shear the head at the shank last weekend. Now replaced with a good one from T.V.
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

  10. #10
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    DO I NEED TO JUST TAKE THE RIFLE TO A DIFFERENT SMITH AND GET IT PILLAR BEDDED?

  11. #11
    Basic Member Blue Avenger's Avatar
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    [img width=562 height=450]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/funny%20pic/capslock.png[/img]
    .223 Rem AI, .22-250 AI, .220 Swift AI .243 Win AI, .6mm Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 AI, 6.5x300wsm .30-06 AI, .270 STW, 7mm STW, .416 Taylor

  12. #12
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    OR MR. GLOBAL MOD WITH YOUR "PHENOMENAL COSMIC POWERS" COULD ADD SOMETHING WORTH WHILE.

    I AM A DRAFTER SO MY CAPS STAY ON ALL DAY AND LOOKS NORMAL TO ME. IT THEN BECOMES A HABIT. I HAVE TO CATCH MYSELF.....................to turn them off.

    now do I need to pillar bed to relieve the stress in the action?

  13. #13
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Sounds like after the bedding job the actions screws were just too long. Get some new 1/4 x 28 (fine thread) button head or socket head screws from the hardware store and attach the action screws until snug with the bolt removed. You can then see if/how far the action screws are protruding into the action. Remove action screws and trim till flush with bottom of action. That should fix the problem if the bedding job is sound. Pillar bedding will only help if there are signs the action screw heads are cutting into the wood/composite from the bottom side of the stock which might explain how they lengthened over time.

  14. #14
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Architect here and it took me a long time to adjust. Now it screws up my cad drafting as I am always
    hitting the sHIFT kEY at the first of a sentence when working in cAD.

    Mod he means no harm, besides I remember when typing in all caps was not considered rude.

    Its stupid really. Caps are just caps. I spent 6 years in architectural school writing in caps before computers.

    Quote Originally Posted by dwa
    OR MR. GLOBAL MOD WITH YOUR "PHENOMENAL COSMIC POWERS" COULD ADD SOMETHING WORTH WHILE.

    I AM A DRAFTER SO MY CAPS STAY ON ALL DAY AND LOOKS NORMAL TO ME. IT THEN BECOMES A HABIT. I HAVE TO CATCH MYSELF.....................to turn them off.

    now do I need to pillar bed to relieve the stress in the action?

  15. #15
    Team Savage
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Oh, back to the topic.

    Your bolts are probably too long.
    Also can happen when you change trigger guards.

  16. #16
    Basic Member memilanuk's Avatar
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Some of the older Savage actions have the front action screw further forward than later models, and there isn't a whole lot of 'meat' in the receiver wall at that point for threads. After bedding (depending on how it was done) the 'smith may have found that the old screws were barely getting any 'bite' and made new ones. Or if he inletted things a little deeper than original when doing the bedding, it could even happen with the original stock bolts. At any rate, yes, its not un-common to either make new ones or if you have a grinder and a tap/die set, trim the old ones to fit.

    Similar things can happen with scope base screws being too long and acting like a set-screw when you try and remove a barrel... DAMHIKT!

    As for the capslock... thats been basic Netiquette 101 for a *long* time. When AOL users started migrating onto the WWW way back when, that was usually one of the give-aways that they were from AOL - chat/email there didn't care about caps lock - the rest of the world thought otherwise. Nowadays its usually older people who find the larger letters easier to read. I can see how someone who works in block-print all-capitals all day would find it tough to switch over. I gotta say... that picture is *dang* funny, IMO. Copied and saved and uploaded to my Photobucket account for use as needed!

    Monte

  17. #17
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    I got it figured out now. its the centerfeed mag. I was able to get it out since there wasnt much holding it in besides some shims. I put the new screws in and tightened the crap out of them and everything worked great. I must need to relieve the mag cut out in the stock. so when i tighten them the mag doesnt touch the bolt.

  18. #18
    r29l20
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Good job pard, See I knew we'd get through it.

  19. #19
    marcus40
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    I have a recently purchased Savage Model 16 and it has 5/16" hex head screws, the manual calls for 40 inch-lbs of torque. I recently purchased a 1/4" Inch-Pound Torque wrench since I have a bad habit of over tightening stuff.
    Just my 2 cents worth,
    Marcus :)

  20. #20
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Your bolts are probably too long.
    That's what she said, last night.

    When my front action screw got stuck and stripped out the screw head, I used a cutoff disk on a Moto-Tool to create a slot on the screw head. - Then I used a big slotted head screwdriver to remove the action screw.

    I was going to replace the action screw once I got it out, but upon reflection, I decided that my home-made slotted-head screw was a lot better deal. - It's easier to tighten and to loosen, so why cough up extra bux for the same thing that failed in the first place?

    Yes, I am cheap too, besides being the kind of guy who would strip out the head on an action screw.

    My take on this is that Savage needs to pay a bit more attention to the action screws. Apparently I'm not the only fellow who got bit because the screw was a few silly millimeters too long.




  21. #21
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD ****UPDATE***

    I took the dremel and relieved the stock where the mag goes. I am able to tighten them down and cycle the bolt with ease. thanks guys.

  22. #22
    Creeping Death
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD

    Quote Originally Posted by bootsmcguire
    If that doesn't work give this a try...

    Use a dremel and a small diamond type stone and remove the head, then the stripped action screw's shank will be left and you can lift the barreled action out of the stock and just grab the screw's shank with vice grips and remove it. Takes some patience but it will work. I have removed quite a few bolts and screws that way.

    Just an idea. May be easier depending on what tools you have available and may be less chance of stock and action damage?

    +1 for the dremel. My dremel has saved my bacon many times.

  23. #23
    Team Savage GaCop's Avatar
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    Re: BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD ****UPDATE***

    Amen to that!
    Vietnam Vet, Jun 66 - Dec 67

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