So my Daughter-in-law uncocked the bolt on her 110. What is the easiest way to cock the bolt with it out of the gun??
Thanks,
Bill
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So my Daughter-in-law uncocked the bolt on her 110. What is the easiest way to cock the bolt with it out of the gun??
Thanks,
Bill
I usually press mine against the edge of a table and work it back into place. It may dent the wood a little though.
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^ this is it. Push the cocking pin back up the cocking ramp untill it locks into place at the top of the ramp.
Some you can do with a tough thumb...other times I use a block of wood or the end of my hammer handle.
Yup... push it against my reloading/work table. Easy as pie.
All of the above..
To some it will seem very hard to do.
An alternate method is to loosen the BAS screw on the rear of the bolt almost off (hanging by 2 threads or so). Then cock it on the edge of the bench/table (real easy). Re-tighten the BAS screw.
Be careful to leave enough thread engagement if using this method. I’ve ruined some threads like this, totally my screwup but be aware it can happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by mnbogboy2
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Thanks guys, I told my kids I would have replys before we finished dinner. Rifle is back in the woods this morning. Not sure how she did it, she is blond and left handed!!!!!!!
The baffel on this rifle is quite loose, is that normal? It is a 111 SS long action. There is a hole in the baffel, but it is a vent hole, not a set screw??????
Thanks for the help....... I am a hero!
Bill
Is the washer in place between the bolt head and baffle ?Quote:
Originally Posted by bsekf
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Don't worry about the loose baffle it will still work like it should. Off hand, I'm not at all sure what the hole is for, never paid much attention to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bsekf
Pretty sure it’s a vent hole to deflect gas in case of a pierced primer.
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I think you are talking about the rear baffle. And yes they are often quite "loose". In the hole you are talking about is actually a spring loaded detent ball which helps align the rear baffle on the bolt body.Quote:
Originally Posted by bsekf
Sounds like all is well and she has good luck hunting today.
Front or rear baffle? There is no hole in the front baffle. There is one in the bolt head. There is no washer between the bolt handle and the rear baffle(unless you have added a spacer to lighten bolt lift. There is a wave washer between the front baffle and the bolt body(or between the Front baffle and the bolt head if you have had the radius removed from the bolt head and moved the washer to this position.)
The rear baffle has a detent that snaps into the groove on the side rear of the bolt body. It also provides pressure to hold it in place when it is removed from the gun and to stop any rattling sounds that take place when the baffle was not secured in some way. It has a horizontal though hole and a deeper vertical hole that houses the spring and the retaining ball. This should be kept clean and lubricated or it will rust. Replacement of the the steel balls can slightly improve the feel of bolt rotation if they have become rusted, pitted or damaged in some way. Careful when you are taking the old ones out.
It is the rear baffel. I will have to take a closer look at the hole. Supposed to be a spring and a ball in there that fits in a detent to stop the loose feeling? It has always been pretty loose/sloppy, but I see no way it caused the bolt to de-cock. I'll investigate further.
Thanks,
Bill
I cant see how it could decock the bolt. The cocking pin was pushed down somehow and it was forced into the uncocked position in the same manner as the trigger would release the firing pin to be fired. The bolt being decocked and the baffle topic are unrelated.
I simply read some post that I felt were conflicting or provided information that was incorrect so I did my best to clarify things.
I agree with Robin. The baffle not having the bb in place cannot de-cock the Bolt.
But you know what the “Mysterious HOLE” in the baffle is, LOL! Now just pick up the little spring and BB’s that go in. (I think there are 2, right Robin?)
Agree also with Robin & DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Hoback
I think you said it first Bogboy!
Bill, I went ahead a took mine apart for kicks.
Uses a 1 spring & 2 Bearing Balls. The balls measure .124” on my caliper.., so call them 1/8”. No set screw. If you look at how I have them sitting, that is how they are kept in. They are “pressed” against each other, so neither can escape. The one forward of the spring must be relieved of pressure to bring the ball which contacts the bolt body, BACK into alignment. Then both balls & the spring can come out the hole. Sounds weird, but easy when you see it. The spring measures .212” long & .1185 OD. (Hair over 3mm)
https://i.ibb.co/Vm80d6g/D334-EE41-4...423-EA4107.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/tbTV1gC/BBDE69-A2-2...7-DC4-EC04.jpg