I pulled the stock of my 110 to paint and noticed the bolts were very lose very lose.
The bolts holding the rail were also lose.
I am thinking about add some blue lock tight and torque them to a specific number.
Good or bad idea?
I pulled the stock of my 110 to paint and noticed the bolts were very lose very lose.
The bolts holding the rail were also lose.
I am thinking about add some blue lock tight and torque them to a specific number.
Good or bad idea?
Nm
Bugs-
Same for your mounts. When I see shotgun patterns occur, torque is the first thing I check.
BTW- after getting a rifle back from manufacturer or outside repair, check the torque on everything to make sure it is to your liking. Without really disparaging any company that might have its service center in Kansas City, I got a .22lr back with front torque at 12 in/lbs and the rear hand tightened.
The only thing I use locktite on, every time, is the rail. Beyond that If I have a problem with a screw repeatedly backing out, maybe I will hit that one, otherwise I don't use it on anything else.
Just my .02 but loctite on ring and base screws only.
I've been a gun nut for a minute or two and never had action screws loosen upon their own under normal use of a rifle.
for that reason I would suspect either they weren't tight enough to begin with, or they are the wrong screws, or stripped, or damaged threads.
Not to say it's "impossible", I've just never had it happen.
I've never had action screws work loose, but recently I have started putting a dab of blue Loctite on them just as some added insurance. I usually tighten them around 40 inch pounds, and will play with different amounts of torque to look for accuracy changes.
Purple Loctite may be enough on a action screw. Or bubble gum. Blue may be overkill. You want them to come out without wrecking something.
I've never had a problem with the blue Loctite. It's not meant to be permanent and screws always come out easily for me. I think you may be thinking about the red Loctite. It on the other hand is meant to be darn near permanent. But I've never had a problem breaking a screw loose with blue Loctite. Most people will say you don't need anything on scope rings, but I don't trust any of it without Loctite on it. I've had scope rings work loose even when properly torqued because they didn't have Loctite or nail polish, or something on them to keep them from vibrating loose. So all of my base and ring screws, as well as action screws get a dab applied to them.
The only screw that has ever worked loose on my Savages has been the BAS at the end of the bolt body. They are either very difficult to get to break loose or they come loose on their own....go figure.
I quit using thread locking liquids on my scope bases for the last 15 years or so - unless they are aluminum bases, which I try to avoid using if at all possible. I used to always put thread locker on my scope rail screws but stopped for no particular reason. If I was going on an important hunt or if I shot competition matches, I would absolutely put thread locker on the BAS bolt body cap screw, probably on the scope rail screws as well as the action screws. I might put some on the ring top screws and the ring cross bolt screws / nut. Never in almost 50 years of shooting have I seen a properly torqued, thread locker free, ring top screw come loose.
Blue Locktite is fine however, if you use it be prepared to ignore any torque values you've read about as the liquid on the threads will act as a lubricant and greatly increase the torque you apply at any particular setting on your torque wrench. You'll need to be prepared to carry out the torquing procedure without interruption until you've got it fine tuned, and then hope that nothing ever causes it to loosen, or that you have to remove the action from the stock for maintenance or repair.
IMOP a better path is to get a decent torque wrench (fat wrench), perform the set up and log it into the actions log book, if you have one, or write it on a piece of tape on the stock next to the screw. Then have a torque wrench with you at the range and re-torque as necessary when you suspect it's come loose. Much less hassle, and you'll have a tool you can use to show other Savage owners how to perform the torque tune. I've been recipient of many a thank you from new Savage owners at the range when performing this fine tuning operation.
As for rings and mounts, ALWAYS use some kind of thread locker or sealant on the threads, and even then you'll need to disassemble yearly to check for looseness or broken screws. Also remember the scope ring screw torque limitation on Vortex scopes (17 inch pounds) or you'll likely lock up the reticle. This I can attest to personally.
Nm
The Vortex torque recommendation is a dry torque value, so be aware of that fact if you torque wet. You'll know you've exceeded the recommended value if your reticle locks up.
As for the action screws, the biggest concern is the effect action screw torque has on barrel/action tune, something scope rings don't respond to.
There's nothing mysterious about wet torque vs dry torque values. If you do some basic research, you'll come up with some useful charts and advise.
Nm
Warne recommends Locktite for the bases but not for the rings.
https://warnescopemounts.com/faqs/Quote:
Q: Should I use a thread locking compound when installing my new Warne scope rings?
A: No, We have never found it necessary to apply any threadlocker to our rings during assembly, and recommend against it because of possible damage to your scope from over tightening the screws, and ease of dis-assembly and if you ever need to remove your scope from the gun.
In general, I have found the manufacturer's to know their own products the best. Read the instructions.
Well said. But some have to super over think everything. I will say I usually blue loctite scope base screws to the receiver. At times trying to remove them I feared I might strip the head and it took several minutes of heat from the tip of an electric wood burner tip to soften it up for easier removal. I'm sure that degree of tightness is fine for the scope base but probably not necessary. Purple loctite provides some degree of locking but not as stiff as blue making removal a bit easier. I have only used red loctite on a base screw the habitually worked loose possibly from damaged threads. I figured this as a mostly forever fix. I no longer ever loctite the scope ring screws.