Axis Magnum Conversion: Firing Pin Too Short Fix?

Dear Savage Community:
Here's my current attempt on Axis Magnum conversion as I had been slowly collection parts and reading on this subject, especially after reading Dr. Thunder88's "MAxis" post back in 2016.
http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...-s-Maxis-Build (Thank You So Much Dr. Thunder88 !)

I ordered the Long Action Magnum Bolt Head from MidwayUSA, savage part# 103960. . Upon receiving it the bolt lug measure a little under half inch, which as compare to the axis bolt lug it is 0.44 inch. In addition, as Dr. Thunder88 had pointed out, alone with a video, the Magnum Bolt Stem is too long and need to grind down to around 1 inch in length.

Last night I finally got around to performed the magnum bolt head's stem shortening. I continue to check back and forth with the Axis firing pin, until I achieve 0.05" protrusion. However, in order to achieve the desire firing pin protrusion, the grinding of the magnum bolt head's stem went under 1" in measurement.


Upon assembly the bolt with the magnum bolt head that been worked on, measurement of the firing pin protrusion is only at 0.025 inch at this point. Turns out the Firing Pin Cocking Pieces has bottom out in the bolt body slot, and prevent the firing pin from making the 0.05 inch desired. Consider the fact that the magnum bolt lug measures at around 0.49 inch thickness, while the Axis bolt lug is only 0.44 inch...

At the moment I am considering this solution to resolve this:
Grind down slightly on the bolt body's slot, where the "cocking piece pin" bottom's out and is currently preventing the firing pin the final travel/protrusion.
My question is would this create other issue if I take out around 0.08 inch and allow the cocking piece pin moves deeper upon firing? I have read that at 0.035 firing pin protrusion is enough...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DRCvY1aekZayhHv8A
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DRCvY1aekZayhHv8A

Please excuse my ignorance on the technical aspects, as I am still rather new on custom works, learning and digesting info, articles, advises while making hands on approach. Sincerely Many Thanks!

How did you determine that the cocking pin is hitting the bottom of the cocking ramp? When the firing pin is in the fired position does it rock back and forth or is it impinged tight against the bottom of the ramp?

If it does rock back and forth easily, I would either pull the cocking piece pin out and remeasure the protrusion or disassemble the bolt and slide the firing pin into the bolt head and check the protrusion while out of the bolt body. Verify the restriction. You are right that under no circumstance should the cocking pin touch the bottom of the ramp as I think you understand. The firing pin stop should slam against the back of the bolt head when fired.

With the fixed length firing pin you have no options. Making the cocking ramp deeper so the pin doesn't bottom out will give you more protrusion, at the same time making it harder to cock.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sharpshooter

With the fixed length firing pin you have no options.

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There is this.........

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/savag...lug_length-442

You could spend that kind of money and chances are it still wouldn't be right. Best way to fix: 86 the one piece firing pin, and use a long action firing pin assembly and cocking sleeve. The firing pin will need to be shortened from the front end about 1/4", and the spring will need to be trimmed to 23 coils. This will leave enough adjustment for protrusion and the cocking piece position. I did this to my Axis, but my camera is busted, so no pics...sorry.

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/5128-...bolt-heads.jpg

Like the drawing but the numbers are off for the pin set-up he has.

Linked from the PT&G website.

The SA is close, don't have a LA......but length should be 1.565, not 1.625, for the LA. Right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Underhammer

Linked from the PT&G website.

The SA is close, don't have a LA......but length should be 1.565, not 1.625, for the LA. Right?

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It could get confusing due to the fact that you have 3 different lug lengths from magnum to standard lug lengths and short action and long action differ in magnum lug length.

The approach of having the firing pin stop impact the rear of the bolt head before the cocking pin hits the bottom of the ramp is the correct way. Then shorten the lug to get the correct protrusion. Based on what I understand the OP(Desnolen68) to be saying is he comes up .010" short. Add some to the rear of the bolt head to get the pin off the bottom of the ramp say .020"(small washers or shims for trial), then shorten the lug say .035 to say .465 (standard BF depth). Seems like that would work. Double and triple check dimensions. Seems like others would be interested in that drawing completed for the magnum Axis too.

That or go with the Master's plan. Fred has access to machinery that helps with modifying parts.

Wow, I was away for the weekend and came back with so many replies! Thank You Everyone!

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How did you determine that the cocking pin is hitting the bottom of the cocking ramp? When the firing pin is in the fired position does it rock back and forth or is it impinged tight against the bottom of the ramp?

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You are correct, the Cocking Piece rest tight at the bottom, and unable to "freely rock or turn/spin" when the firing pin is in the fired position.

I did more searching, and found that there are 4 main types of bolt head and a long list of the breakdown (thank you Fred Moreo of Sharp Shooter Supply; and Underhammer for the lug diagram):http://www.savageshooters.com/conten...Configurations

I also as suggested looked into PTG's custom bolt head (Thanks Robinhood). And as mentioned in this thread by SharpShooter, that the more expensive way.

I have tried to source extra Axis bolt body to start the experiment, called Savage and they told me that a gunsmith will have to order it for me...

Then there is the longer firing pin solution possibility, but which firing pin can the Axis interchange?

I was back and forth about should I just mill the Bolt Body Slot slightly deeper, or should I go get a PTG custom bolt head? I took a look at their website and it will take a few week for the order, so I decided to went ahead and mill the Bolt Body to see if that would work. In event that does not, I will try to get a replacement Axis Bolt Body, and go with a PTG bolt head in 7/16" lug dimension with a Short Action Length Stem.

The Axis Bolt Body material is quick tough, and I was extra careful, measuring and checking constantly to get an extra depth so that I get to a minimum of 0.035 firing pin protrusions. It took me a good 2 hours to get the desired depth.

In the end this worked! I am getting 0.35 firing pin protrusion now, and it does not affected much on the force need to manipulate the bolt (I guess the slight deepening kept changes to a minimum). I also checked primary extraction and all seems well. A word about extraction is that since the Magnum case is larger in diameter, the ejection slot on the receiver seems a bit small, but does clear the empty shell freely.

I do not have the chance to test actual primer strike yet, and will post back result once I have done that. I will test on primed brass only, no powder or bullet yet. I am keeping my fingers cross that everything will go well.

Thank You So Much Everyone! You have really helped to better understand and figure a possible solution!

Went to the range and also bought alone the Axis project rifle. Went through 20 primed only brass, and all went off without any issue on pull of trigger. They are all Hornady Brass with Winchester Primers.

In light of this, I am still thinking that if going the PTG custom order bolt route, it would have save me many sleepless night thinking and trying to figure out magnum conversion.

Again, very much appreciates everyone's help here, and the wealth of info I learned here! Thank You All!

See my updated thread, which originated almost a year before this one:
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...l=1#post501994

Thanks for the heads-up, Desnolen68!