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Throwing this question out to forum members as I'm new to the Creedmoor cartridge. It seems to me, Creedmoor cases could be formed from 260 0r 308 brass by running them into the Creedmoor sizing die. Is this feasable or am I all wet? If using 308, would outside neck turning be necessary?
When sizing down, neck turning is advisable. Do not neck turn until reformed to 6.5 Creedmoor shape. It actually is several steps, and not at all worth the effort.
I was curious as the cases are so close in size. I'm still waiting for my dies to get here so I haven't been able to experiment. Thanks. I kinda figured 308 would have to be turned after forming.
High quality Peterson brass can be purchased in large or small rifle primer, fat necks or regular. Large or small rifle primer Peterson brass can be had for $36/50 on sale now at Graf's. I see nothing to be gained from forming your own except the challenge and enjoyment (which I understand).
At $.43 a case why?
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...rass-100-count
Check this out:https://www.outdoorlimited.com/ameri...int-50-rounds/
I found these shoot into very tight groups. And you get the brass to reload.
That's 70 cents a load in a 200 ct. box for 139.95
If for whatever reason you choose not to buy factory 6.5 Creedmoor, I'd opt for using .243 WIN brass and expanding the neck.
But it would be a pain no matter. You'll first probably have to shorten the case and then neck or it will collapse. And then neck turn whether coming down from .260 or .308 or up from .243.
It's not like 6.5 CM is a rare case. The .260 Rem cases will cost you more than unfired 6.5 CM.
I see a 50 count box for 88Cents a round in that link. they do have a box of the same ammo but it is $.88 alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
I run this brass in PRS competitions.
https://www.starlinebrass.com/brass-cases/65-Creedmoor/
This has stopped me from necking up or necking down brass for my 260 from the same company.
Got my dies and tried forming Creedmoor just for S&Gs. Definitely not worth all the hassle. I've got 100 cases coming in the mail. I have the 20 empty Hornady cases from the factory "Black" I shot yesterday to sight in the rifle and break in the barrel. Interesting development shooting yesterday. The bolt was very hard to close on the factory ammunition as if the extractor didn't want to snap over the rim. Never had that problem when the rifle was 22-250? I initially though it might need a good cleaning under the extractor so broke it down after I got home and cleaned the spring pocket and extractor slots in the BH. I reassembled it and tried closing the bolt on a full length sized factory case and it still was hanging up to the point it is chewing up the case rims? I've been building Savages since 2007 and have never run into this before? I have another spring and extractor on order to see if that fixes the problem. A short while ago I tried closing the bolt, sans extractor, on a sized case and the bolt closed w/o effort so the extractor is most likely the culprit.
Excellent price for 50 rounds!Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
It will be a good opportunity to broaden your skills. ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
I learned back in the early 80's with trying to form .22 Rem Jet cases out of .357 Mag brass that it can be a real pain in the [case] neck to form your own! Maybe with a big 'ol massive press, but mine was (and is!) an RCBS Jr. And even after all the work I'd end up with maybe 50% loss from collapse, or short case life and neck splitting when I fired them.
You could take the extractor and the ejector out of the bolt and see. I would be concerned with headspace. Do you have, or could you rent, some 6.5 creedmoor go/no-go gauges?Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
Go down to the bottom of the page, 200 count box for 139.99. It's out of stock, but appears it can be back ordered.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robinhood
I've got the Creedmoor GO gauge, used that to set headspace. Bolt sans extractor closed easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by psharon97
:thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas10
Swapped out for a different receiver and chambering is working fine. I have yet to figure out what is wrong with the original action. I reset head space less tight and that helped a bit but chambering was then hit or miss, one minute the brass would chamber but then would not extract, then all of a suden it was back to the old "won't close on a chambered round"?! It's enough to drive an old man to drink (my excuse).
Are you sure that there isn't a burr in the chamber? I would inspect the brass to see if there are any deformities in on the case itself, or have the chamber inspected by a gunsmith to ensure that the chamber has been cut correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
No marks on the cases at all just dings on the case rim from the extractor not snapping over it. Rounds chambers smoothly now in the replacement action. As I said before, the offending action worked perfectly when my 22-250 barrel was on it? I'm going to have Fred at SSS look at it and work his magic.Quote:
Originally Posted by psharon97