300 Wm rebuild

I'm a rookie to Savage rifles so I guess this could be considered a rookie question. I have 2 lefthand 300WM rifles. One the serial number is 128132 and the other is serial number F863356. The older one is not a shrouded bolt so I could rebarrel. What I want to do is rebarrel one to 338WM. Now I have found out the 338 is the parent case to the 300WM, the max sammi pressure is the same between the two from what I have found. The bolt should be useable between the two. Now my question is this feasibly a good build and I should use the newer rifle? The older one is a 110 and the newer one is a 111. Has anyone done such a build or is there some fact I am overlooking. I know the 300WM will take any game around but I am looking for a good bear gun. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Not sure what you mean by "shrouded bolt" but either rifle will work fine for your swap. I converted an old flat top 110I have from 30-06 to 338WM, for a while. I didn't even need to change magazines, neither will you. I had to swap bolt heads, but you will not.

All you will need is barrel and headspace gauges. The same gauges will work if you ever want to swap it back too. Also will need (if you do not have them already) is action vice or barrel vice, and barrel nut wrench.

Have fun.

If I am reading right the shrouded bolt is a push feed with ejector inside it.

I would go with the push feed. It has better far better expanding gas protection (rupture case and blow back)

While not normal I did see the results of one blown up this last year, never found caused, reloads and gun being tested by a gun shop employee.

No idea why it did not fully control the release (blew receiver top off) but at least the damage was lost teeth only, not eyes.

Handirifle, Thanks for the answer. Shrouded bolt from what I understand is where the bolt actually entered and locked in the chamber. Savage advertised it as a ring of steel for safety. These are on pre 68 rifles. I read on one post to absolutely not to use pre 66 rifles for modifying. My 110 is a flat top also. Guess I need to start getting the tools and find a barrel. Thanks again

OK RC20 Now you got me confused. I thought all bolts on Savage was a pushfeed system with the ejector in the bolt. I'm going to have to do a lot more research into this.

There were some magnum length receiver made with control feeding, but no more.

SOmewhere there is a post or a place to check serial numbers for age of rifle.

the pre-'66? (that doesn't sound right but I've been gone for awhile) rifles utilized a totally different bolt head system and trigger-sear setup if memory serves. These rifles are NOT compatible with the more prevalent post-'66 style still in production today.

Of the post-'66 rifles, 99.999% are the standard Push-feed style. However, Savage did make some Controlled-Round-Feed rifles in some of the Magnum chamberings and the WSM chamberings. When Savage switched from the Stagger-feed magazines to the Center-feed magazines it was discovered that the CRF setup was no longer needed and it was dropped. With your older rifle not having a letter prefix in the serial number I am inclined to think that it may be possibly a pre-'66 and there for not a good candidate for your intended swap.

Please check all of that for yourself as I've been away from the forum for about a year and half and I am dusting out the cobwebs in my brain to recall all the specifics. The Savage FAQ and Articles sections here have great resources for this type of information.

This^^^^^

If your bolt head resembles the one on the right, it will not work with commonly available Savage pre-fit barrels and is not a worthy candidate for a rebuild without the assistance of a qualified gunsmith. Note the extension of the bolt face extending past the end of the lugs. That extension fits into a recess in the barrel that is not found in currently available pre-fits.
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/...ps23vh283e.jpg

Hotolds442 thanks for the picture, that helps and will check asap