Case Problems in new 22-250 Barrel

Installed a new Mcgowen 22-250 8 twist small shank barrel and it leaves a bulge on the lower portion of the case? The case sticks out of the barrel .126, the headspace checks out great, and there is .014 clearance between the boltface and the barrel. About .273 up from the bottom of the case there is a bulge that measures .470 then drops back to .462 at the bottom by the rim? It is expanding about .010 over a new case.

Here are some pictures, I am a little woried it is going to lead to case head seperation very fast? What do you guys think?

Thanks, Dallas
[img width=600 height=450]http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/Dallas111/DSC05888.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/Dallas111/DSC05887.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i641.photobucket.com/albums/uu136/Dallas111/DSC05886.jpg[/img]

Never had much luck with McGowen.

First off, that primer looks pretty flat(high pressure). Maybe it just looks that way in the photo though? Are you experiencing a sticky bolt when you cycle the bolt after firing a round? What powder, charge and bullet are you using?

Did you remove the extractor and ejector and use go/no-go gauges when you headspaced the barrel? Are you noticing any change to the shoulders? How about overall length before and after? Did you remove the extractor and ejector and use go/no-go gauges when you headspaced the barrel?

No hard bolt lift 80 A-Max with 37.5 grains of H4350 (upper end) and yes used a go gauge and it is good. Tried some Remington factory loads (50 Grain HP) and it still has a slight bulge but about .0015 less. Ends up at .4685 and then after full length sizing they are .462 in that bulge area.

I am going to do some measuring of the factory barrel and compare it to this barrel.

Dallas

looks like the barrel might of been cut with the bore not lined up straight, by doing so the reamer will "walk" around making a larger chamber than normal. The brass bulged right after the case web, thats why it looks that way.

Ugh...need to get that fixed....there is already a line just ahead of the bulge.

What Sinman said....is spot on.

If the case measures .462", the case is undersize. Undersize cases will always look like they are bulged, giving the impression that the chamber is oversize or egg shaped, even when that is not the problem.

Did you also use a no-go gauge? If not, you really should try one. I wouldn't be surprised if you can close the bolt on a no-go gauge. Did you check the headspace with the go gauge after tightening the barrel nut? I like to feel a little binding or friction when closing the bolt on a go guage.

That is a tapered case so if you are backed off slightly from the shoulder the case will expand down the length of the case until the thicker brass at the base of the case stops the expansion. That's why I asked about the shoulder and overall length.

You really need to back off on that powder charge a little. That primer looks very flat. You should start your loads just about the minimum or at least 5-10% below max and then slowly work up from there. There are so many factors the can increase chamber pressure it's better to be safe than sorry, especially with a new build. Seating depth, case prep(chamfering) and crimp, if used, can be major contributors to chamber pressure.

I use scotch tape on the go gauge. It will close on one but will not even start on 2 layers which is = .003 which is well with in spec and would never close on a no go gauge.

I can see presser being a factor, and the brass being to small.

I will compare chambers tonight.

Dallas

Had that problem with a 220 swift from Savage Arms and could not figure out what the problem was.....Until I got some swift go/nogo gauges and a RCBS pec. mike. Turnes out that savage arms cut the chamber too deep so I took it to a machine shop and had a couple of thousands cut off it and it was in specs. Stopped all the case buldging at the case head at once.

Now back to your answer which won't bee cheap.

- - - Order a go and no/go gauge from somewhere.

- - - Use the go gauge to set you barrel. (take the ejecter plunger off of the bolt first)

- - - Use the no/go gauge after that to see if the bolt closes and if it does ya chamber is too deep.
if it does not close on the nogo gauge, all's well.

- - - Purchase a RCBS Pec. Mike in 220 Swift and use it to size your cases to fit your chamber, etc.

- - - DON'T FORGET TO NEVER force a bolt closed on a metal gauge.

22-250 not 220 Swift!

I have three 22-250 barrels, adams bennett, savage sporter, and a savage bvss thats been Ackley Improved. They all have this ring with win brass. Bill

Flattened primers are not a good indicator of high pressure these days. Most primers on the market today are 'soft' and flatten out with even mild loads.

Yup, looks like normal Win brass. Wincheter brass is the worst kind for this. It is always undersized.

The chamber is a little on the large side compared to the factory barrel. The brass may be on the small side also but the factory Remington loads left the cases looking the same.

It is being taken care of with some great customer service!

Thanks,
Dallas

Your making a mountain out of a mole hill.

Two different manufactures of .303 cases below fired in the same rifle, guess which case has a smaller base diameter.

[img width=600 height=431]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/privihxp.jpg[/img]

American made cases are notorious for having smallish base diameters. If the case wall is thinner on one side of these smallish cases this will also cause a warped banana shaped case. This means the base case when fired will no longer be 90 degrees to the axis of the bore, and when reloaded the bullet will not be aligned with the bore.

If your going for accuracy get good quality brass like Lapua, both Remington and Winchester have been bought out by large global corporations who only think of profits and quality comes in second.

Juat for a follow up I recieved the new barrel today and the chamber is much tighter!

Thanks for all of the help guys!
Dallas