bolt disassembly problem

so I figured I would take my bolt apart today for fund sake. I did my research and got it figured out. I took the bolt out of the gun and got started. ??? Someone's broken off an Allen wrench in the baffle. Its one of the ball end types for hard to reach heads. It took awhile to figure out what it was but that's all I can come up with. I don't need to take it apart but I may at some point. Any ideas on how to get it out? It will move around there a little bit, fired tapping the bolt and prying it to no avail.

Your going to have to turn it in the opposite direction it was turning when it broke to get it released. Not knowing which way that was perhaps you can look with a loupe or magnifier of some type to determine by the alignment of the ball to the flats of the socket. Then using a sharp pin punch and small hammer attempt to return it into alignment to remove. Because of their construction when people use a cheater pipe and get medieval with them they actually set a burr below the top of the socket and become dog fast. Good luck and worse case you will damage the baffle when removing and must replace it. Hope this helps.

I'd probably drill it as big as I could then try to get a wood or drywall screw to take a bite and pull it out.

After that, I'd touch it with my tig torch and mash the pedal and then pull it out attached to my electrode.

If it is moving, try a magnet.

El Lobo

Are you sure it's a broke wrench? Did you uncock the bolt after you removed it?
If your rifle has the cocking indicator that is what your seeing.

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Originally Posted by thirty06

Are you sure it's a broke wrench? Did you uncock the bolt after you removed it?
If your rifle has the cocking indicator that is what your seeing.

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I have to laugh. This could happen to anyone who has never done it before.

Definitely a broken wrench , its harder than ****. None of my bits will even bite. Where do I get a new rear piece if I have to go to the nuclear option?

is this on the bolt assembly screw?

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Someone's broken off an Allen wrench in the baffle.

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Was wondering the same thing. ??? There isn't an allen screw in the baffle.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/..._worthless.jpg

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Originally Posted by JaredCO

Definitely a broken wrench , its harder than ****. None of my bits will even bite. Where do I get a new rear piece if I have to go to the nuclear option?

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Notice I didn't say drill. ;D You could set it up in your mill and try a carbide end mill but the interrupted cut may break it.

Yes in the BAS. I'll try to get some pics up tommorow

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqeXNCA_JtA
this might help

I'm still tryig to grasp someone having the capacity to break off the long end of a ball headed allen wrench. I'm guessing 50 plus ft/lbs.

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Originally Posted by stangfish

I'm still trying to grasp someone having the capacity to break off the long end of a ball headed Allen wrench. I'm guessing 50 plus ft/lbs.

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I think it has nothing to do with capacity, it is leverage! ;) A length of 3/8" pipe can reduce the effort required.

Here's some pics. My close-up fu is weak. Source for a new BAS? I was thinking the same as hi-tekhttp://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...aredCO/011.jpghttp://i933.photobucket.com/albums/a...aredCO/013.jpg

I'll get it out with my tig if you want to send it.

Or, you can get one from brownells.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...EMBLY-SCREW-SS

I believe that is do-able with an endmill and a ez-out. It will either release the ball or remove the nut. Got a mill?

If you have a torch with a small tip you can aneal it and then drill or whatever. You might end up repainting it. An easy out might work depending on the direction you need to go if you just looking to get the ball end out. I have taken a tap and ground the threads off with an angle to grab in the direction I need to go for special jobs. Do not heat it or it will loose the temper. Grind and cool grind and cool.

The pictures look like it could be plucked out with a needle nose but the internal burrs must be preventing that..Ball hex wrench was the wrong tool to begin with....probably the wrong size (too small)...some of these screws can be very tight....

Hi-tek has a the best plan remove and replace....

If in a pinch (during hunting season)...I would muscle out the screw with a "vise-grip" or small pipe wrench..or even a hammer & chisel...swallow my pride and file off the burrs...Then drill a small hole thru the BAS from the opposite side and drive the hex end out with a drift punch...fill the drilled hole with silicone and go hunting...

During hunting season if it was working I'd just leave it alone. There is time to work on this after the freezer is full. I think that I would just get a new BAS and do whatever it takes to get the old one out.

You guys have spent more time discussing this dilemma than it would have taken me to fix it.....using hi-teck's " lo tech" method. ;D

New Bas showed up today. Cut some flats and pull out the old, put in the new. Thanks fellas

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Originally Posted by MrMajestic

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Originally Posted by stangfish

I'm still trying to grasp someone having the capacity to break off the long end of a ball headed Allen wrench. I'm guessing 50 plus ft/lbs.

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I think it has nothing to do with capacity, it is leverage! ;) A length of 3/8" pipe can reduce the effort required.

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My reference was mental not physical.