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I'm going to buy a new stock for a Stevens 200 and I have it narrowed down to the Boyds JRS. The only hold up on the Boyds is the lack of pillars though. I'm not sure what the best material is for making the pillars though. The other option is to buy the Callahan Adjustable pillars http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=763473 and bed them into the stock when I do the rest of the action. Have any of you used these, or is there something better out there?
Andrew
I use some alluminum ones available from a guy on ebay. The curve doesn't quite match the receiver but that is ok for me (epoxy takes care of the rest - I just use the pillars so the wood stock doesn't crush).
I made mine before, 5min on a lathe and you can have them done. I drill the holes oversized and then glue them in with jb weld or devcon.
poor mans method is threaded lamp rod form the local hardware store.
One of the site sponsors, Stocky's Stocks, sells pillars already notched for Savages. Order them and epoxy them in. Hardest part is making sure the holes are straight up and down in the stock.
I've used the pillars for Savage rifles from the "guy on Ebay" (www. myworld.ebay.com/pakratinator) with good success. You can get just the pillars. I put a couple rounds of tape around action screws to center them in pillars, attach the pillars to the action, apply release agent, and epoxy the pillar in place. I put tape around the barrel and tang to position and free-float them in the stock. I then come back and bed the rest of the action. Some do it all in one step.
The Savage pillars we sell, mentioned above, fit right into out LRV Thumbholes I might add, no drilling required.
If doing a stock myself I use Brownells 9/16" V-Block ribbed pillar up front for better receiver support. If you don't like the V you can cut that end off instead of the flat end but I don't know why anyone would. They also have some ribbed U-top units but the screw holes are smaller. Also, Darryl Holland has a set of very slick ADL pillars if you're doing a blind mag unit that come with screws (Savage is the same thread) that countersink into them. Haven't tried them but keep threatening to.
Regarding off-center drilling: Suggest using a piloted drill bit and/or drill press if possible! Drift is about unavoidable with normal "Home Depot" bits.
If you are really serious about your pillars get the piloted 9/16' aircraft counterbore version (not a pun LOL) http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8...FT_COUNTERBORE NOT the forstner as the pilot in the Brownells forestner breaks readily, has several arrive already broken. The 5/16" pilot usually fits in most stocks but may have to clean up the existing holes a bit as it may be tight.
Obviously this requires the use of 9/16" pillars but I like them the best especially up front anyway.
Countersink a hole with the above bit about 1/2" in from the top side of the stock (also avoids chipping when the bit exits from the other side), turn the stock over, then take it in from the bottom in about 3/8" deep passes, backing our the bit to clean out the chips. Use an appropriate size block of wood under the comb of the stock (stock is upside down after all) to avoid rocking the stock in the press under pressure and canting the hole. When you meet the top hole you're done straight and true!
Hope this helps,
Don
Thanks for the tips everyone! I'm just going to grab a set of the pillars from Stocky's. That sounds like the easiest way to go.
Andrew
I have been very pleased with the one Richard makes, they come with a nice escution, are cut to your measurements, look and work great.
They are pretty high for pillars but I have used them 3 times and they are first class, I do them as part of a bedding job and they turn out great.
Check http://www.richardscustomrifles.com/
I can post a picture of the finished job...well the escuthion part anyway if you are interested.
Many people badmouth the use of aluminum scope mounts and rings because of the heat expansion/dissimilar metals/coming loose, yada, yada. Dosen't this line of thinking hold true for aluminum pillars as well, if not more so?
As Blue avenger pointed out, threaded lamp rod works well and is available. I use 1/8" GI pipe--just wire brush the galvanizing off, bore to 7/32", cut some grooves with a 3 cornered file, and cut to length. I do this on my wood lathe with a 3 jaw chuck. Iron against steel has got to be less disimilar than aluminum against steel, right?
My biggest dissatisfaction with this home made method is cutting a round saddle for the round action body. I think my next attempt will involve a sanding drum and v-block jig on the drill press. Any other suggestions for those of us without a machine shop?
Your thoughts? Steve
Well, I doubt temperature would mean too much with aluminum pillars unless maybe something extreme like -50 to 120 degrees. How and what would you measure anyway?
As far a contouring the pillars to the action, I don't bother. I leave them flat and allow the bedding to make up the difference. If the material your using isn't good enough for that, I wouldn't use it to bed an action either. Take a look what Rich has to say on the subject of pillars. http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
Bill