I am entirely ignorant...

Howdy yall.
I am entirely ignorant to rifles, shotguns, and anything other than M4 and M16 I carried in the Army.
I know a lot about weapon safety, but am sure I can alway pick up a trick or two.. Never too safe.

I am in the process of purchasing a 2001 year model 111 .270. It 100% original and comes with an optic that will suffice for my first hunting season.

When I go to these online retailers how do I know what will fit my new to me rifle? Are there any brands or retailers to stay away from? (No need to bash and I couldnt tell if asking about best/worst retailers is allowed in the forum rules).

Is the 2001 year model 111 .270 able to be converted to a magazine style like the new ones with that, reportedly, terrible accutrigger?

Any tips, tricks, or advice is greatly appreciated.

Also, I did my best to search the forums before posting. I followed the tips of using 3-4 words. Tried with quotes and without.

110 long action parts fit. Bed the front of the action and recoil lug.
Float the barrel. May need to sand the sides of the plastic out. Work on the trigger spring and shim the sides with aluminum thin washers. Dry lube. Make sure optics hold zero. I prefer to bed the scope base to the action. Also adding a little weight to the stock, a .270 has some recoil.
Cheers


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Hello DaddyShark! No need to apologize. We don’t yell the “USE TBE SEARCH” thing here… not our style. No, many here actually enjoy answering question, talking about Savage Rifles specifically & firearms period. So please, if you ever have a question, don’t hesitate to ask.

You have a Long Action, Flat-Back & non-Accutrigger. It’s most likely a Stagger-feed Action, but you should check as it can make a difference for stocks. Easy to verify. Pull the Barreled-Action from the stock. Is the Magazine Box attached to the Action? (Stagger-Feed) Or is it attached to the stock? (Centerfeed) You can also tell from how the rounds feed, but sometimes takes a more seasoned eye. Here’s an older thread showing a Stagger-Feed & how to remove the Mag Box. Which is required if you wish to go to a Detachable magazine. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ew/2&styleid=4 The characteristics I listed above are some of those by which parts are chosen. Long/Short Action, With/Without Accutrigger & Stagger-Feed/Center-Feed. In addition there are Large/Small Shank, Action Screw spacing through the years, & Top or Bottom Bolt Release (TBR/BBR) Although in your case, ALL Long Actions have the same Action Screw spacing. Im not sure what you have read concerning the Accutrigger, however, I can tell you being classified as “terrible” is a personal objective. Some detest it sure. However, there are others who are quite fond of it. Especially when worked over correctly via Trigger Job, as I do. Savage unfortunately has been in a situation of never having a truly Precision Target trigger available in the Aftermarket. Even so, both the 3-screw & Accutrigger have lent to DIY’ers modifying & working it to quite successful ends. I rather save the $150-$200 for any current Aftermarket Savage trigger & have my modified stock trigger. A modified stock Savage trigger is actually very close in function to the best aftermarket currently offered. Although we are hoping TriggerTech changes that next year.. (fingers crossed)

Hope those helps. Anything you are still unsure of please ask.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/es0nl6lr91...9%29.jpeg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yfb1lzjq9k...1%29.jpeg?dl=0

Excellent!

Dave gave you some good data. I will add that the modern magazines are not a drop in unless you go with a chassis and use the AICS pattern mags maybe some other brands. Regarding stocks, the screw spacing is the same for the old and the newer long actions the mags fit differently and the mag wells are in different locations.

Outside of bolt and trigger work I would leave that rifle alone and hunt. When you are ready to modify get a more modern version of the Savage 10/110 that has plenty of aftermarket support.

For your bolt there are various degrees of bolt lift work. For your trigger the best work you can do is shimming the slop out but still maintain free motion and altering the diameter of the trigger spring. .040" diameter wire is on the light end and possibly .043" on the heavy side to lighten the trigger pull. The lighter spring must be done with care as it increases the chance of accidental discharge.

Aftermarket triggers are subjective. My favorites were always what Fred Moreo of Sharp Shooter supply formerly sold.

Good luck with your new rifle. I hope you get a chance to hunt the San Saba area if you like trophies.

Welcome to the club and good luck with your hunting.

Your rifle will do very well as is. When I hunted I liked to have a spare mag on me, simply in case the one in the rifle fell out somewhere. Unfortunately, Savage mags are kinda unique, a bit on the expensive side, and they can be hard to find. Yours should be one of the more commonly available.

Accessories. Before you change anything try the rifle out for a while. You may find you like it as is. If you do want to change things there are a lot of options for you out there.

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Your rifle will do very well as is.

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Have a 110 flat back made in 2002. Would not change a thing! Action is very smooth, stagger feed magazine is fine with no feeding issues at all, and after some "tweaking" the trigger is great. Right now if I had a choice between one of the newer 110 models and the older model I would choose the older.

FWIW: I did find an OEM Savage walnut stock on Numrich and replaced the synthetic stock with it.

Yes, definitely work on the trigger. I make those springs Robin was talking about & send them freely to any member who wants one. I can drop one in an envelope for you if you wish.

Here’s a pic of one I sent to another member recently, and compared to a stock spring.

Stock Savage spring bottom.
https://i.ibb.co/vk1pzNQ/A0361455-6-...-C488-FCEC.jpg

I have never hunted anytbing larger than Dove. As of right now, trophies is a far far dream. Thanks for th advice on this 111. Im lucky that my wife scored a free gun cabinet from a coworker several montbs ago. When I informed her that meams we need to buy guns, she said "I know." I cant wait to get her a new (to her) gun as well. She also likes Savage as for its what her family had a lot of growing up.

Definitely. Already have a date set to head to yhe range for myself and the guy Im buying it from. I need to look into one of those laser cartridges to get my scope close to zero and finish off with live rounds.

Nice. I like the look of yhe walnut stock!

Dave, I would greatly appreciate a new spring. I tried to drop you a message but being new to the forum I have no idea how. Haha. Send me one and maybe I can figure it out.

No problem. Just email me davidhoback1@gmail

Replacing the spring is very straightforward. Separate the barreled Action & Stock and you can very easily access it. Read through this Archive to familiarize yourself. https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...ent-Procedures

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Originally Posted by Dave Hoback

Yes, definitely work on the trigger. I make those springs Robin was talking about & send them freely to any member who wants one. I can drop one in an envelope for you if you wish.

Here’s a pic of one I sent to another member recently, and compared to a stock spring.

Stock Savage spring bottom.
https://i.ibb.co/vk1pzNQ/A0361455-6-...-C488-FCEC.jpg

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Dave, the modified spring you are making, does than lighten up trigger pull? Or just make it break more clean?

The lighter spring(smaller diameter wire) lightens the trigger pull. It also increases the chance of accidental discharge. Spring preload is critical to keep the trigger-sear relationship intact. If not done correctly you can discharge the rifle when closing the bolt or simply bumping the rifle in the stand or blind.

Thank you Robinhood!

I’m sorry Tim. I agree with Robin. Here’s a bit more to it. There is a difference between Spring weight under Pre-load & reducing a Spring to the same weight by way of reducing Pre-load. Of course the lighter the trigger, the easier it is to trip. This isn’t the case for this spring specifically, but the case for ALL trigger springs, period. This is a reason really light target triggers aren’t used for hunting. Also a reason I like Safe Action triggers. (Like the Accutrigger) It CAN’T fire without deliberately pulling the trigger. But I digress. Yes, Hunting & Target triggers are two different things. Great thing: springs are easily replaced. One thing, from my experience, a lighter spring with sufficient preload, is less prone to tripping than a heavier spring, under extremely light preload. This is why it’s a bad idea to CUT springs shorter. Oh wait a second…, it’s not just my experience. It’s actually physics, LOL. One can spend some time researching Spring Load, Spring Rate, Pre-Load and how they relate to one another. Interesting topic actually.

By the by…. The wire I use is .042” diameter. High quality Spring Steel. I found the .042” the best choice.

Dave was kind enough to mail me 3 pieces of straight spring wire as I had been fighting a Striker trigger for months off and on. I already had 4 xp's and Contenders & Encores but never owned a Striker. I bought it for 2 reasons, it was as new for 340 bucks and the second reason was I wanted to see if I could do anything with the trigger that all the guys complain about. I can tell you this ,,,, until you change the torsion spring you can crank the screws until you are blue in the face and the adjustments will not respond.

Thanks a million Dave! I won't forget your generosity.

:thumb: As always my friend, it’s my pleasure.