Reasonable accuracy expectations using a scope.

Last December I bought the A22 rifleas a package deal trough Cabellas up here in Canada. The gun is on a polymer stock, without any iron sights. Glass or red dot sights are the only choices. I have the scope the gun came with and a Vortex Sparc11 for a red dot for rimfire Competitions.

My question is what kind of accuracy can I expect out to 50 yards using off the shelf ammo ie no match grade ammo? Gun will do gopher and squirrel duty. 1" groups off a rest at 50 yards would be perfect.

Take Care

Bob

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Originally Posted by Canuck44

Last December I bought the A22 rifleas a package deal trough Cabellas up here in Canada. The gun is on a polymer stock, without any iron sights. Glass or red dot sights are the only choices. I have the scope the gun came with and a Vortex Sparc11 for a red dot for rimfire Competitions.

My question is what kind of accuracy can I expect out to 50 yards using off the shelf ammo ie no match grade ammo? Gun will do gopher and squirrel duty. 1" groups off a rest at 50 yards would be perfect.



Take Care

Bob

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Bob: I have a A22 and using CCI standard velocity ammo I can shoot 1' groups and a bit under easily at 50 yards using a bipod - using a rest would improve my results. I use the A22 in tactical matches (35 to 135 yards) and it does OK - my Savage Mark II BV out performs it. I changed the plastic stock for a Boyd and spent hours, and I mean a lot of hours, to get the mags to fit properly. The mags fit perfectly in the plastic stock. If I didn't have so much money tied up in the Boyd I'd have dumped it and gone back to the plastic stock.

I can say that a 'stock' A17 with a JARD 2.5# trigger will do groups of 10 in a quarter at 50 yards all day long. ZERO issue with ground squirrels out to 170 yards.

As to the BOYD, stocks....I'm going to do a write up that will save people hours of time getting them to work well, with photos. It does involve, sand paper, rat tail files, a Dremel (helps a lot) patience and a dollar bill.. For the Mag well, you need to sand the sides of the mag well, AND with the Dremel, remove a small bit of material from the two large radius's to the front, there are two tangs sticking out by the plastic piece for the latch, they have to be taken back a bit. Note". Just use 320 grit paper to knock off all of the garbage from bad routing. I had to take the plastic piece that the mag latches on to and put a bevel on it so the mags latch would...well...latch...again slow and easy. The Dremel with a sanding tube makes it easier for some of the areas, others a file or a rat tail file. I also had to sand the snot out of the barrel channel to get the dollar bill to pass through cleanly. I use to be in the precision machining trade and Boyd could have done better, much better, quite disappointed. But the end result works.

NOTE: If anyone is using or going to use a JARD trigger group, the front (Barrel end) of the trigger well radius need to be moved forward a touch, about .005", otherwise you and Elmers glue will become friends fast. Go slow and take your time and it'll be worth it.

Oh there is a chance that the front screw hole that holds the receiver in place will be behind where it needs to be by about .030" or so, you will have to elongate it to get the screw to go in smoothly. The rear screw is fine, at least on my stock.

Looking forward to the report and especially the pictures. Mags work OK now but I can't just "slap them in". I have to mess with the lever. Not a problem at the range but a pain at a match - I'm never sure it will insert properly - and sometimes it doesn't and I lose time plus it throws me off. When it happens in the prone position I may as well forget the rest of the string. It's a shame because the rifle is a good shooter and the stock itself is great.