MSR10 Failure to Extract

My 308 MSR 10 is failing to extract. Bought it about 2 months ago. around 300 rounds deep into ownership and I still cant get it to run reliably. I have tried multiple brands and loads of ammo and the same problem occurs. Some ammo more than others. The used round will not extract and the rifle will attempt to load a new one right into the back of the empty brass. I have tried everything from a full closed gas block to full open and every setting in between. The brass that fails to extract looks like the extractor ripped the front half of the rim off of the casing. Should I send the rifle back to savage or do any of you have any tips to get myself sorted out at home?

Thanks

Pressure or weak extractor spring.

Did it ever extract and if it did was the brass thrown directly to the side, a little forward or rearward?

When it did eject it went rearward I believe. I have brass marks on the deflector. But I have been moving the gas settings through the entire range. I am back to 14 up from full closed. Seems to run the best there. Still an issue every few rounds. Does it every round with this stuff https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/r...mance-match#!/.

I have some trash no name target ammo that won't even shoot a 10 inch group at 100 yards that will only fail once every 20 rounder and that's about the best I shot in terms of running.

I am far from being a gas expert but I have seen this issue. It was from running hot loads in a DPMS LR308. I believe a couple of things were happening. The biggest issue is that the bolt is moving rearward trying to extract while the brass is still expanded and gripping the walls of the chamber. Turn the gas down some, Inspect the extractor claw for wear, change the spring in your extractor. The DPMS style bolts actually have an o ring that you could buy aftermarket. It goes where the extractor spring sits to limit the amount the extractor moves.

I am betting the setting will be somewhere between 4 and 10 clicks off of closed.


I would consider turning the gas down until it no longer catches the magazine when empty. Then turn it back up a notch or two. Try not to run really hot ammo or risk premature wear on the lug matting surfaces.

Need to see your brass. If you're ripping the rim off your extractor is not weak. You could easily have a jacked up chamber.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

I am far from being a gas expert but I have seen this issue. It was from running hot loads in a DPMS LR308. I believe a couple of things were happening. The biggest issue is that the bolt is moving rearward trying to extract while the brass is still expanded and gripping the walls of the chamber. Turn the gas down some, Inspect the extractor claw for wear, change the spring in your extractor. The DPMS style bolts actually have an o ring that you could buy aftermarket. It goes where the extractor spring sits to limit the amount the extractor moves.

I am betting the setting will be somewhere between 4 and 10 clicks off of closed.


I would consider turning the gas down until it no longer catches the magazine when empty. Then turn it back up a notch or two. Try not to run really hot ammo or risk premature wear on the lug matting surfaces.

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Problem is I have turned the gas block all the way down and the gun still had the problem and even cycled. I have a feeling that my gas block isn't right.

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Originally Posted by Alleycat72

Need to see your brass. If you're ripping the rim off your extractor is not weak. You could easily have a jacked up chamber.

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Good point, so the next question is how hard is the brass to remove after the fact. Jacked up chamber, hard removal/extraction. Over pressured gas system, easy removal extraction.

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Originally Posted by Robinhood

Good point, so the next question is how hard is the brass to remove after the fact. Jacked up chamber, hard removal/extraction. Over pressured gas system, easy removal extraction.

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With the exception once when the gun was brand new and once yesterday. All of the rounds stuck in the chamber were able to be extracted by locking the bolt back. removing the mag, removing the jam then dropping the bolt forwards. The stuck casing would eject after manually racking the bolt once the majority of the time.

If you think it's the gas block, send it in for repair. The flash hider is crazy hard to remove. I actually like the gas block design it's self, but anything can fail. By the way no one makes a action block for the msr10. I had to make my own.

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Originally Posted by Cajun_

With the exception once when the gun was brand new and once yesterday. All of the rounds stuck in the chamber were able to be extracted by locking the bolt back. removing the mag, removing the jam then dropping the bolt forwards. The stuck casing would eject after manually racking the bolt once the majority of the time.

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To me, if I turn the gas block off and the bolt does not cycle, I can test what I think you have already proven. The chamber is OK. You have also shown that once the brass contracts a small amount you can manually operate the bolt and the round extracts and ejects.

BTW, What ammo are you using? If hand loaded tell us the load.

I think I would once again start at zero and move to 1. For this test use only one load. Don't change ammo. Each time you move up note the response. Verify. Dont change ammo. If you get a stovepipe the situation is moving towards ejection. You have extracted but not made it back far enough. Try 2. Same thing. I am hoping you were frustrated and just adjusted to quickly. Good luck and let us know how this test went.

So what happened? Fix the issue?

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Originally Posted by Alleycat72

So what happened? Fix the issue?

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Sometimes the answer is right there in front of you but inexperience lies.