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The accutrigger on my Savage 110 Elite seems to be “locked up”, for lack of a better phrase.
I’m attaching the photo....it appears to me that the sear is not catching on the slot in the release lever bar?
Here’s a photo...
Thanks for your help....
George[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds[/IMG]
What’s that white thing that looks like it is preventing your release blade from going all the way back ?
The sear is where it should be if you have the bolt handle lifted. Does the sear slide down to the ledge if you close the bolt?
That is a the metal of the lever lifted as a tab. It just looks white from the reflection light. Doesn’t prevent the lever from travel. Is as it should be. Just a camera trick. LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by GrenGuy
We need a little more info Vartarg... Like celltech said, it’s in position of open bolt. What heppens with bolt closed? When did this start? Have you had anything apart?
[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds[/IMG][IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds[/IMG]I’ve had the bolt apart, but haven’t touch the trigger mechanism.
The first photo is with the bolt back, and second is with the bolt down....the sear moves about 1/8”...
Thanks,
George
When you close the bolt, the cocking piece pin is driven rearward by the cocking ramp and at full bolt open that pin is set on a divot at the top of the ramp holding the firing pin at full cock. At this point the firing pin is retracted with no protrusion. As you close the bolt(The cocking piece pin applies pressure to a part of the sear that protrudes into the bolt lug raceway) the cocking piece pin begins it's fall foreward while pushing the sear "lever" with it by function of the trigger hanger pin as a pivot, the bottom portion of the sear swings rearward and catches on the trigger.
To me, It looks as if the bolt is closed and the sear has not advanced rearward. If what I am seeing is true then for some reason the firing pin is possibly binding and not allowed to move freely.
This leads me to the question, have you disassemble the bolt recently? If so did you disassemble the firing pin?
Yes...I did disassemble the bolt, removed the firing pin assembly but did not the front lugs.
You have the bolt assembled 180 degrees out of phase......the cocking piece pin should be on the right side.
I agree but an not sure how to straighten it out....
I began to disassemble the bolt, but can’t get the cocking piece in a position to remove it.
???
Thanks[IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds[/IMG]
Pull the bolt out and remove the BAS. Rotate the bolt handle 180 degrees. Replace the BAS. The Cocking Pin should be on the right side going in.
We can work through the pin removal if you have to. only if you put the bolt head on 180 out or you messed with the firing pin/spring stop.
It looks like the bolt head is fine. If your protrusion is measured to be .040" then you just need the handle on the correct side.
Thanks sharpshooter. You always keep it simple where my mind goes to the most complex.
When I took out the cocking pin, the cocking piece came out separately from the firing pin and spring....it had come undone.
Yesterday, after getting (I thought) the bolt back together, I decided to check the pull weight on the trigger.....after four pulls I heard a noise and the trigger wouldn’t work anymore. Now I know that’s because as I was working the bolt, the cocking piece was separating from the firing pin under the spring pressure.
Obviously I need to reassemble them, but need to do that correctly...
Thanks again for your help....
George
I just rechecked the firing extension: .018
George
Adjusted it...overly I guess.....066
That’s why I asked if you did anything prior.... I had a feeling you put it together 180 out. Didn’t want to assume so I asked. Whenever you have an issue and looking for help, give us all the info in the beginning. Saves a lot of time. It’s almost always something simple when any work has just been performed.
BTW Vartarg, great pictures you take there brother! Seriously fantastic. So many times people take dark, tiny, hard to see anything pics! You throw us some giant, “High Definition” shots, LOL! Just thought that was pretty cool.
Thanks... I understand...when you don’t know what you don’t know, it’s difficult to know what rhe important parts are.
I appreciate the feedback.
George
Vartag, Start with the bolt head in one hand and the firing pin in the other. Drop the firing pin in the BH and set you firing pin protrusion.
Next if you have not already assemble the FP go ahead and do this now. You will want to screw the Cocking Piece on about 1/4 inch(7 threads). Now slide the Cocking Piece Sleeve onto the Cocking Piece and line up the teeth of the Sleeve with the teeth on the Notched Washer. Adjust the Cocking Piece until it lines up with the slot in the Cocking Piece Sleeve.
Slide the assembly into the bolt body with bolt head, baffle wavy washer and crosspin. Insert the cocking piece pin into the hole in the cocking piece. The pin should be at the bottom of the cocking ramp but not bottoming out. Adjust the cocking piece until you get the pin to be very close to the bottom of the ramp while applying some force to hold everything in place.maybe .010 off. It should rock a small amount without moving upward(no linear movement just lateral movement). Once that is set put your lift kit in. Next the spacer and then the BAS.