Savage 110 .270 only shoots well with cold bore

I recently purchased a savage 110 with the AT in .270 caliber after several months of shooting some savage .17's with the triggers. As much as I was shooting them, it made sense to me to switch my deer rifle to one with the same trigger. Anyway, after alot of struggling with different loads and brands for the gun, I eventually tried something yesterday that worked out amazingly well, and wanted to see if this is a fluke, or the norm. My rifle will usually shoot the first round about 1 inch high at 100yds and then the groups will move down the target and sometimes to the right depending on how much I shoot and how hot it is outside. Then as the rifle cools, even slightly, the shots will start moving up and to the left again. This makes shooting groups very difficult, and I have moved the scope many times in frustration only to have everything move around again the next time out. Being that this is primarily a deer rifle, the most important thing is that first shot. Yesterday I decided to try to shoot a group of cold bore shots and only cold bores and move my scope accordingly. This may be common sense to most, but for some reason took me a while to figure out. i would shoot a round, then put my rifle in the truck with the ac on high for 30 minutes before the next shot was fired. Anyway, the result was outstanding compared to anything I have had this rifle do to date. I was shooting nosler accubonds 130grains with 55grains of hybrid 100 powder, and my 3 shot group was just under 1" at 200yds. Here is a pic of the target. Is this a normal thing? or is my rifle just really picky about being cold?

[img width=600 height=400]http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo315/fullup3/130grnosleraccubondhandload200ydsnoname.jpg[/img]

Sounds like the barrel needs free floated and,or a bedding problem.
Also check and make sure the tang(part where the safety is) is free floated also.

I have had a similar experience with a few rifles. The sporter contour barrels tend to heat up quickly and that has had a tendency to change my point of impact.

How far were the shots stringing? I would call it normal if the changes in poi were not too large. Also, exactly how warm is your barrel? How many shots can you fire before you notice a poi? Did you run a boresnake through the barrel or clean your rifle in your cold bore trials? I have also had some issues with clean vs. fouled bore... Keep shooting, if this is a new barrel it may change how it "behaves" after the barrel is broken in.

Not much help maybe, but a couple of things to think about.

-Scott

The first shot is the one you need to know where hits. Them 270 heat up fast!!!

After you sight in dont clean the barrel ntil after your hnting season is over. How many shots through that barrel? I would check for a copper buildup in the bore as another starting point. Some Savage barrels are real copper mines.

El Lobo

My 300 WM is the same way, after a few fouling shots, let it cool, the first 2 rounds will almost touch, then it opens up after that, unless I let it cool off.

Mike

thanks for all the replies guys. The barrel is free floating, but not bedded other than the factory stock. The stringing is only about 1 to 1.25" at 100yds and around 2" or so at 200yds depending on cold vs multiple shots... Not enough to make me miss an animal, but enough to drive me crazy at the range!!! I know how good these Savage rifles can shoot, and it drives me crazy to have the crosshairs on the bull when I squeeze, and the bullet hit somewhere else. I bought the rifle used, but it hasn't been shot much, its still basically new. I usually shoot 20 to 30 rounds before I clean it pretty well and have only put about 100 rounds total down the tube. I may end up bedding the action, but I think I will probably accept the fact that it is what it is. I just need to know where it shoots cold and count on that one shot to hit the mark!!!!

What material is your stock made of?

This could also be part of the issue.

Bed that rifle.

As others stated, sporter barrels tend to walk a little as they warm up.

Cold bore shots can be THE hardest item to overcome. Something that has helped a couple of my barrels, coat the bullets and barrel with Danzac/WS2 or HBN.

My 300 Win Mag does NOT shoot well, until it has 11-13 shots down the tube. Factory Savage Competition rifle with the blackened stainless barrel WILL shot sub 8" groups at 1000 yards, AFTER you warm the barrel.

As stated, bed the action and float the tang. This should help it settle down. Even with the whippy sporter barrel, you should be able to get three shot groups under and inch.

thanks guys. The stock is just factory wood and barrel is well free floated. Is there an article anyone can point me to on properly floating the tang? and also, what weight and order should my stock screws be tightened? thanks

Well, not much more to say! Check for free float issues. dang sure won't hurt to bed it. POI opening after multiple rounds is very common with factory barrels. They heat up quick and that effects the accuracy drastically. I would definately get the barrel dirty and leave it until your cold bore gets out of line, unless your copper fouling, there is not alot of reason to keep it sparkeling clean all the time. Replace the stock if it's factory and that will help tremedously. Goodluck