Newbie-cracked stock in M99

Just joined here. So sorry for probably a common question and how to fix a crack in the tang of the butt stick.

I recently inherited this gun that has remained in my family for a mong time. Perhaps since new (1946 300 sav)

the crack will “work” and open up a bit when I torque the butt stock. Otherwise the but and forearm are beautiful old hardwood.

So the obvious question is how to fix properly. Will opening up a bit and putting in some sort of super low viscosity glue and then close and clamp work? If so, what glue is recommended? Or will it have to be followed up with drilling and screwing in a pin be required?

What will hurt the value of the gun more? Should I do nothing at all?

I have heard of ”accuglass” and also “hot stuff” glue for this type of repair. Are these the best glue or is there something better out there?

How is hot stuff any different than any other CA “superglue” that you can buy at the local hardware store??

sorry for the newbie questions.

Not sure I will hunt with this gun, but I sure want to keep it in the family and at least have a solid gun for fun at the range. And occasionally a trip into the field for whitetail!

Every 99 I have has a cracked stock and I repaired them all using Elmers Contractor grade water proof glue. Spread the crack open as far as your dare and force the glue into the crack as far as you can. I push it in with my finger or a toothpick in small cracks. Clamp it and wipe off the excess. The glue is stronger than the wood. Don't over-complicate things!
If it's a take down model that's probably why it cracked. People would try to remove the barrel by clamping the stock instead of the receiver, breaks the tang every time!!

Thanks

I do not believe it is a take down model.

I guess I have to believe there is better glue out there and only want to do this once.

How long has the elmers wood glue worked?

i suspect that gun oil etc has accumulated and I think was “poured” into the crack to help keep moisture from wicking into the wood. I wonder if that will or coild mess up the adhesion of any glue that is used.

The Brownells “hot stiff” glue says in the description that the thin version only has a 5 second working time. That seems too short to open up and then close after application. The hot stuff thicker version has much longer time but I winder how thick it is to really wick down into the crack.

I dont want to over complicate things, but I would like to only do this once. Any glue fsilure means that the whole crack is then contaminated with the failed glue.

the crack is pretty narrow, not sure how wide I can get it For toothpicks etc. might work if could push the flue in by pressure bit dont know how I can do that. Even with a single use hyperemic needle.

I see you are in Wisconsin! I lived in Tomah until I moved to Florida. Had 50 acres of hunting land near Cataract. Still come up every summer for six weeks and stay at my brothers place near Wautoma, and hit the small town gun shops for old guns!! :)

I unfortunately live outside Madison. But I am originally from the U.P. And still go back there for deer hunting with the family.

My current deer rifle for the last 15 years is a Marlin 336 in .35 Remington. I also have for my daughters each also have Marlin 30-30s.

So I am a lever guy.

I like manual actions. I like pump shotguns (or classic side by side double barrel)

I also like revolvers but carry semi automatic pistol mainly for the capacity.

So any hints as to how to best fix the stock crack.

If you think there is oil in the crack, flood it with some degreaser like mineral spirits, should clean up the oil and not harm the finish.

When I lived in Tomah and had a small gun repair business and built custom rifles, so I have tried all methods of stock repair and found the way I described above to work the best with the least effort.

The UP was one of my favorite places for a summer (if you got there the right week) motorcycle tour! Beautiful up there but the winters are brutal!!

Thanks.

I was wondering how to clean the crack. Mineral spirits is about as easy as anything. I recently ran out so I need to buy some more anyhow.

I was mainly wondering if a screw or pin was necessary. I would rather not install the screw pin. I see Brownells has a kit with pins and drills for this purpose. Is a pin nesessary if the crack extends completely through the tang?

I have not yet removed the butt stock. But I suspect with how the crack “works” with torque that the crack probably does go all the way through.

What type of clamp is “best”. Just a C-clamp or should it remain in a vice or something more stable than a c clamp?

I really expected with how common these cracks sre, that I would get a ton of responses or links to previous forum threads about this specific problem and fix.

Once you remove the stock you can evaluate the crack better, and maybe post some pictures. I clamp in a padded vice, or wrap with rubber tubbing, which ever works best.

I'm on several other forums and there seems to be less traffic here, and I've noticed if there's already a reply that answers the question, nobody else chimes in.

I have fixed many a stock with Elmers !!!