Did I a quick search but since I’m on my phone who knows. I usually use a dowel with various grit sand papers. Anyone have another way of doing it I can try. My way works but always looking to improve.
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Did I a quick search but since I’m on my phone who knows. I usually use a dowel with various grit sand papers. Anyone have another way of doing it I can try. My way works but always looking to improve.
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How about a heated pipe. Should produce a smooth channel in a short time. Before you ask I have not tried this as I do not have a plastic stock.
Sand the edges to clean it up.
I’ll give it a try on the first one. The worst thing that can happen is an order from Boyd’sQuote:
Originally Posted by olddav
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Put layer of tape on barrel, install in stock. Use sandpaper between barrel and stock with 'shoe shine' motion. For more clearance use another layer or two of tape on barrel.
Did you install a larger barrel?
If you did and have to remove quite a bit then you can cut the sides with a razor bladed utility knife. Then sand to even it out. There is usually lots of clearance below the barrel. Cutting at the bottom may be more suited to a dremmel with drum sander. It might be cheaper to buy the Boyd's than buying all the dremmel drums..lol
If you are just increasing the stock floating then the sand paper will take care of it in short order.
My .02
Good luck
That is exactly what I did to my 111 Long Range Hunter last weekend. I used a utility knife to cut the barrel to the correct contour because the heavy sporter Shilen was a slightly different contour at the end of the stock than the heavy sporter that came factory. I did have the dremel get away on me when I did under the barrel, and scuffed it a little. But overall this was the easiest way I could see doing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by mnbogboy2
I’m going from pencil to varmint contour for my father and son 6.5 Creedmore Christmas builds
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I bought two sizes of these barrel bedding tools decades ago for about $16 each. The price has gone up by more than 2x but I think they are still a good purchase. You can buy one size and just the cutters for other sizes. You don't need the smaller sizes if most of your wok will be opening up the channel for larger barrels. They are two of my most used gun tools - with which I have inletted hundreds of barrels over the years. Faster and easier than sandpaper. They work on plastic, fiberglass and wood stocks.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...aspx?rrec=true
https://cdn-us-cf2.yottaa.net/53ff2f...cs=p_&yoloc=us
http://www.bellandcarlson.com/index....tegory_ID=1086
It's Christmas, bet they would smile with one of these!...lol
If you have access to a mill you could make short work removing the material. Also I have made wooden fixtures before to use a router to remove all the barrel channel material out of wood blanks. The fixtures take 100 times as long to make as the material removal itself.
Once you have the Tupperware down to varmint it might get quite flimsy.
Personally, if I was able to afford it, would buy an aftermarket already cut for the varmint contour. Most likely you would end up with very accurate gifts and a couple of real happy campers.
Good luck on whatever you decide and merry Christmas.
I used a piece of stiff hose wrapped with sandpaper.
I read of someone using a flapping wheel? Not sure how great it would do.
Here's a quote from one of my previous posts that's another way to skin that cat and in my opinion a better way to skin it if you have or can borrow the "tools'
"Well since it's synthetic you could always do a little backwoods engineering.
I put a barrel off of a model 10 BA (.308 24" fluted) onto one of my sons synthetic stocked sporter hunting rifles and needed to open up the barrel channel. So I got creative. I took my propane turkey fryer and filled the pot with water and got it boiling. Then I put the stock nose first into the boiling pot. It takes quite a while to soften the synthetic up a little and if I remember right it took about 15-20 minutes maybe a little longer. Then I put on a pair of gloves and forced a thick 1" broom handle into the barrel channel from the action to the tip and wrapped it securely in a couple of places with duct tape. When it cooled it retained the shape I wanted with plenty enough clearance for the new fat barrel. I did have to relieve it just a little in the bottom of the barrel channel at the tip with a dremel. Other than that it went really smooth and worked well.
They say necessity is the mother of invention but I think lack of money can be just as motivational :) "
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...t-stock-search
Here's another link where I shared this info that has a crappy pic of the finished product.
http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?58532-Savage-model-11-trophy-hunter
Why not just use a chainsaw.....be lots quicker.:thumb:
I kind of like the heat idea but think I’ll try heating the barrel channel with a torch.
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Pure speculation but: I'm thinking a torch may heat the surface too rapidly and unevenly without letting the heat get deep enough into the plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by ninner
Let us know how that works out. I'm just guessing, but maybe an oven would work out better. When I boiled one it took quite a while at a full rolling boil and a couple of tries to get it hot and pliable enough to where I could force the broom handle into the channel to open it up.
Good Luck and keep us posted on your project.
BHJ
Helluva great idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by big honkin jeep