Poor accuracy on a Hog Hunter re-barrel

I recently re-barreled my .308 Hog Hunter to 6.5 CM using an Apache Gun Works barrel. First, I'd like to say that this barrel is as smooth as a baby bottom when cleaning. Very impressive.
I have a Burris variable power scope mounted on a Weaver 1 piece rail.

My problem is, after 9 different loads using 2 different powders and 4 different bullet weights, plus 2 different stocks (factory and Boyds), the best I can get at 100 yards is 1.5- 2.0 inch groups.
As a control, I shot Prime factory 6.5 ammo with the same group results.

At first I thought the problem was my lack of shooting experience using a scope. Watching the crosshairs move in time with my heartbeat was really disconcerting.
So, I had 2 friends shoot the factory rounds and their results were similar to mine.

Is there anything that I'm overlooking, missing, or doing wrong that is causing these poor groups?
Also to note, with the original factory .308 barrel, groups hovered around 1.5 inches at 100 yds.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Make sure the front scope base screw didn't bottom out early against the barrel threads and check to make sure rings and bases are tight with no wiggle. (Just because that front base screw is tight doesn't mean it didn't bottom out early)
Shoot off of some good bags with the forearm on the bags not the barrel and pull the rifle down into the bags and your shoulder snugly when firing.
Have you tried torque tuning the action to the stock? when done with a decent load it can make a pretty big difference.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/techn...torque-tuning/
Maybe a few good places to start. Good luck.

Need more info. Barrel and rifle specs. when you put it in the boyds stock is it Pillar and Glass bedded or just dropped in the stock? What bullets specifically were you shooting? What charge ranges? What was your shooting set up? Bench, Bags, Rear bag, Prone?

Bench technique is very important, you have to do everything the same shot to shot. Is the tang floated, is the barrel floated, have you bedded around the action screws. What power scope, if you see your heart beat, it must be high. So many variables........ good luck. And, in the end it might be a bad barrel. Are you using the right weight bullets for the twist?

Bill

Also, I am not clear on what 9 different loads with 4 different bullets and 2 different powders means, exactly. For example, before moving on to another powder or bullet, I normally try 10 different powder charge/weights with the same bullet. If none of them produce good results, I then try a different powder. Therefore, if I tried 4 different bullets and 2 different powders, I would say that I actually have tried 80 different loads. If you would say the same, it appears to me you haven't adequately tested any one of your powders or bullets. Also, you might not have tested powders that are well suited for the cartridge.

If you continue to have problems with this barrel and have given it a reasonable try to locate the problem and to find an accurate load.......let me know and I'll make it right for you one way or another. I stand behind my work and will work with you to find a solution........up to a refund or replacement.

I am going to try to visit the forum much more often starting today.....I've been away too long.

On the high end of the 4350 node with Lapua brass, 42.3 grains, CCI BR primers and 142 SMK's, AGW 6.5 Creedmoor barrel shoots sub 1" 5 groups at 400 when the flags drop. That's in a chasis with a very light set SavII and a Sightron 6-24 I think there is another one around 41.1 or 41.2 that won't flatten the primers.

As stated earlier. There's a lot of information missing in this request for assistance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LoneWolf

As stated earlier. There's a lot of information missing in this request for assistance.

---

I agree, I thought I would demonstrate with details. We don't have much to go on even though the op is one of the originalFolks that do not post often might need some help with providing information that is usefull. I figured the OP needed an example.

Or since he is an original member and I can't find him in the members list maybe something else is going on.

Do you know what PARALLAX IS ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by homefrontsniper

Do you know what PARALLAX IS ?

---

If you have a parallax adjustable scope, this is paramount.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Apache

If you continue to have problems with this barrel and have given it a reasonable try to locate the problem and to find an accurate load.......let me know and I'll make it right for you one way or another. I stand behind my work and will work with you to find a solution........up to a refund or replacement

---

^^^^Stellar CS!

To the OP, what’s the twist rate, and what bullet(s) are you using? Have you tried shooting at say 100,200,300 etc yards? See if your groups are opening up correlated with distance?

Also, are the scope, rings, base the same setup that was on the rifle originally before the rebarrel?

It may not be powder or bullet choice. It could just as easily be a seating depth issue. How much have you played with that?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

Or since he is an original member and I can't find him in the members list maybe something else is going on.

---

Individuals only show up on the members list if they have 20+ posts.

First, let me say that Apache Gun Works offer is most generous, but I don't think the barrel is the problem. I have the same issue with the factory .308 barrel.

As to missing specs, what I have (I believe) is a 1:8 twist, 22 inch stainless barrel in 6.5 Creedmore with a threaded muzzle.
The Factory Hog Hunter stock has pillars, but I don't believe that they put them in there for bedding. The Boyd's Laminate stock isn't pillar bedded yet, but it is at the gunsmiths for that job. Both stocks have the barrels free floated, along with the tangs.

The rifle has a Burris 3.5-10 X 50 scope mounted on a weaver 1 piece rail. This scope's parallax is set at 100 yds according to the factory. There is no parallax adjustment. I shoot iron sights as a rule, so even at 3.5 power that crosshair movement is something I'm going to have to get used to.
All of my load testing has been off of bags, shooting over the hood of my Jeep. I find that this is a very steady rest.

As for the loads tested, I've used Prime Ammo factory 130 gr, and handloads using 123 gr SST, 129 gr SST, 130 gr Prime (Norma) factory bullets, and 143 gr Nosler ELD-X.
The powders used were the Prime rounds and 8208 XBR. Primers were Winchester LRP. (All I have available)

I don't post very much because I've found that most (if not all) questions that I have were already asked and answered here on the site. There is a wealth of knowledge available here.
Sorry for not getting back sooner.

ETA: My wife thinks I should put the factory .308 barrel back on, put it back in the factory stock, save the 6.5 CM barrel and sell the Hog Hunter. Then get another Savage in .243 and have the 6.5CM barrel to use as a switch barrel.

Easy.

Work on your load development. Choose ONLY 1 Bullet. Try 8208XBR, starting lowest published charge and moving up to maximum in 1/2gr increments. 3 each. 1 or 2 or 3 of these will be tighter than the rest. Of those, choose the one with least vertical spread. Play with that load a while. Try a little less and a little more charge around it. When you find improvement, try various seating depths as well. If you can't get 1 inch groups after this, try a different powder. Repeat.


Don't rebarrel and sell. It ain't the action.

Well, I'll give you $150 for it, shipped. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MrFurious

Individuals only show up on the members list if they have 20+ posts.

---

There you have it. Something else was going on.

Try h4350 or rl16 140eldm. Could also try some different primers but only change one thing at a time. Is the scope a
known good scope to hold zero try the scope on a different rifle to see if that changes anything.

I took a few new builds (deer rifles) to the range Friday to check for accuracy. I also took my own 260 just to confirm zero before heading to deer camp. Could not find my leftover rounds from last season, so loaded a dozen cartridges and hit the range. The new builds shot fine. My own .260, which I built maybe 3 years ago and has been a true 1/2 MOA rifle since day 1 with a factory sporter barrel was stringing 4 inches vertically, 1/2 inch horizontally. I could not believe it. Shot all 12 just to be sure it wasn't me. Checked my my scope, mounts, action screws, hold, rest... This morning I double checked my records... For some reason I was loading 40g Varget with 120g NBT's even though my notes clearly said I needed 39g of Varget. Relieved, I reloaded 12 more and my only 3 shots this afternoon with the proper load were dead-on inside a 1/2 inch circle.

Good info........ after you find a node, work on seating depth and don't be afraid to jump them. I got a couple of rifles that like a 0.04 jump. And one that wants them jammed, go figure.

Bill

Just an update on my Hog Hunter re-barrel problem. It seems that the issue was both the scope rings and how tight the ring screws were.

The set of Warne rings that I was using was missing the recoil lug on the front ring. Apparently that will allow the rings to shift shot to shot.

Replaced the rings with another set of Warnes with both recoil lugs. Also tightened the screws holding the rings to the scope AND used a torque wrench to properly tighten them, something I've never done before. Lesson learned.

Now I'm getting 5 shot groups at 100 yards that I can cover with a dime. My buddy shot it and got the same groups. I'm quite pleased with this out come.

The load used is: Prime (Norma) brass
Hornady 143 gr ELD-X bullet
26.5 gr 8208 XBR
Winchester LP

Thanks for all the replies and help. This really is a great forum.

Good news. Looking back, "Big Honkin Jeep" nailed it right away... check mounts. :)

Ah yes the Warne recoil lug (key)....scope back on...what?...how did he get out?....
Been there done that!