I did a search, and there is tons of information, but I couldn't find anything definite.
What I am looking to do is convert my 110 pre-accutrigger (left hand) .270 to a .243. I would rather convert it than sell it or trade it.
Besides a barrel, wrench, clamp, and go-no go gauges, what else will I need, and what kind of problems or issues can I expect?
Thank you!
That is the usual suspects.
The most common issue is NOT removing EVERYTHING first. Countless people leave scope bases on, shear a screw into the receiver, then lock the barrel in place. Don't be those people.... I'll lend you my T-shirt from the club :)
Next is the nut it's self. They can be Sweet-baby-jesus tight. I have had to get a dremel and cut them off.
Otherwise, the only real *trick* is properly holding things when you tighten the lock nut(barrel nut). Lots of hillbilly engineers don't properly hold the action/barrel properly, and when they tighten the nut; inadvertantly change headspace.
You may or may not, have magazine feeding issues. That gets chocked-up to Savage crap QC. I've changed a 7mm Rem Mag to 22-250 and everything was fine. I've taken a 30-06 to 264WM and had to tweek things.
If You search enough on this site, You will find everything there is to know about barrel removal, and instillation, both definite and otherwise, because it has all been covered many times.
I would still like "Bill PA" to do a FAQ or "stickie" on the subject. Being in the frigid, snow bound, north east, he surely has plenty of spare time on his hands? ;-))
Maybe this will help. I had the same questions.
http://savageshooters.com/showthread.php?t=38091
BW
im going to remove mine in a couple days when I get anti-seize in mail. Mines a new build and I used oil on threads not anti-seize so when I remove it I can send you a video. It's a stainless barrel nut and barrel so it's important I get the stuff on it... Plenty of videos are on YouTube so I suggest watching them before you attack yours. Action wrench makes everything easier too. I didn't need a vise to install the barrel since I I'd the action wrench and barrel nut wrench... And an extra set of handsQuote:
Originally Posted by hairbear21
Don't have a barrel vise. My barrel nut wrench has half inch squares near each end and I have an ancient Snap On 18" breakover bar in half inch drive. Using these with an action wrench, I haven't found a barrel nut that I couldn't get moving.Quote:
Originally Posted by darkker
Since the factory blues everything assembled, I've had a couple nuts that didn't want to come off the barrel. The threads were caked with bluing salts. Just take the recoil lug out of the way and thread it back in the action. The nut will move when the barrel touches the bolt lugs.
And yeah, guess I'm a hillbilly. Sometimes the barrel turns when you don't want it to. Double check your headspacing after the final tightening. Ideally, you won't feel the go gage when you close the bolt.
I've had them move too, that's why I said hillbilly :rolleyes: As long as you know it moves, and headspace changed; you can check/correct.
Thank you for the information! I found a Model 11 .243 barrel, other than the 11 being for a short action, that doesn't affect the swap does it?
As long as the shank is the same you should be good. I believe thread pitch is same for small shanks. You can measure diameter of shank on old barrel to guarantee you're getting the right shank.Quote:
Originally Posted by hairbear21
headspacing trick for installation: cut out sticky note so it fits the back of go gauge. place it on the back of the gauge, insert gauge, close bolt, thread barrel down til it lightly stops on go gauge, lock nut, remove gauge then torque. The extra thickness of the sticky note should help for when the barrel turns slightly inside the action during torquing. Remove sticky from gauge and recheck headspace. Hope that works for you it helped during my installation.
If'n you're worried about the barrel turning whilst you tighten the barrel nut, a couple thick (1/4" or so) swatches of leather like from an old belt, to wrap the barrel about 3-4" from the nut, lock a pair of vice grip - the kind with the roundish jaw - on the leather clad barrel, pucker up good & tight and lock them shut.
As you push on the barrel nut wrench you can push the vice grips in the opposite direction so it doesn't move.
I've yet to mar or damage a barrel using the vice grip & leather method and since we all know barrel swapping never happens once, you'll have your "special tool" for the next swap job.
Stand the rifle up on the butt and spray some Kroil penetrating oil where the top edge of the nut meets the barrel. Let it soak down into the threads for a day or two.
The model 11 barrel should work fine.
Good bit of information there!Quote:
Originally Posted by Russmerle
Another fine pearl of wisdom!Quote:
Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla
I was thinking more like:Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
Necessity is the mother of invention.
And when you get a barrel all tightened in & locked down ONLY to find it moved when you were tightening it, finding the appropriate sequence of curse words can be difficult.
Sometimes you have to make up a few new ones.
3-4 swift raps with a dead blow will make sure she's tight enough.
This seems to come easy to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by fgw_in_fla
43 years after uttering those immortal words "I do" spare time is only a distant memory!:pQuote:
Originally Posted by FW Conch
Thank you for the awesome advice! I ordered a 243 take-off barrel with the recoil pad and nut. Once I do it, I will make a video.
I never torque my bbls very tight - maybe 40ft/lbs by feel
never had one come loose or change headspace and all have shot very good if not better.
Just dig in and you'll get the feel for it.
That is pretty close to spec for what my instructions said. Northland Shooters Supply precision barrel nud stated 45ftlbs I believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by 750k2
I was going to say the same thing. My wife says I cuss worse than a sailor.Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrosch
If there is any Axis work in your future I recommend a barrel vice. Things go a lot easier with the barrel bolted firmly to the work bench. Here is the one I have and for $70 you cant go wrong.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/226...-wood-bushings
I got everything swapped, and it went great! I did do the leather trick (had and old belt), and that helped in keeping anything from moving. I did, however, cheat and use a little heat to remove the shank. It was a mother f-er, and it was cold in the garage, so I threw some heat on it (only enough to remove condensation), and it popped loose instantly!
You all have been great, and check out the video I made with some thoughts on the 270 to 243 conversion!
https://youtu.be/PRhM-K23qmo