Action screw torque?

Anybody know if Savage uses a standard torque for action screws on current production rifles, and if so, what that might be?

Thanks in advance...

Any reason it would change? Just curious...

I thought it was 30-40 in lbs on front and 25 on back.I had to make sure mine was right because both of my action screws from the factory wasn't even finger tight, also my stock was bad on my 111 30-06.They say you can make your rifle more accurate by finding the perfect setting on the back screw, but I have never tried

@ a Boyd's Laminate stock and Savage Model 11 Trophy Hunter XP: after reading this and similar threads, I have to add that only 25in# seems correct to me. The other measurements may work with composite-type stocks which are pretty dense.

I just received a Boyd's laminate stock which required shimming the action to keep from binding the bolt head or magazine against the bolt. This, even past the supplied little "top-hats" that go thru the "bottom-metal" frames; mine is composite like one used on the M14 LW Hunter) Two "top-hats" for front (front specific - one top for the screw to seat, one bottom to shim) and hand tighten, then to 24in# and no more! Holds fine (used weaver "fat-wrench").

In rear, "top-hat" on the bottom of the frame and a stainless washer under. Had to tighten after the first 10 rounds fired and continually as groups kept opening, 6-8 shots. The stock crack right at the center laminate joint at the rear inlet of the magazine well through to the rear action screw.

The trigger guard rear screw stripped immediately upon first insertion.

Now I am forced to fight with Boyd's tooth and nail to replace the stock that was ill-cut to begin with in that I required shims, and a laminate obviously not strong enough to hold up to even the mildest torque, much less the seeming consensus of all the experienced Savage shooters here.

So I don't know where all these 30-40# torque rating are coming from. I used about 30# or so on the Tupperware stack that came on the rifle. But with my replacement stock, the force would crack it down the middle the first time it fired. I have no doubt.

Only the comment somewhere in these threads about 25# and a TactiCool stock seem to ring true to me. It certain doesn't apply to a Laminate Prairie Hunter stock!!!!!!!

FWIW; I torque the front screw and then lightly torque the rear. Then shoot 3 rounds, torque the rear a little more, shoot 3 and so on until I see groups tighten up. Then mark the head of the rear screw with a sharpie and monitor.

Answer is in a link in post no. 5
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...orque-settings

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Texas10

FWIW; I torque the front screw and then lightly torque the rear. Then shoot 3 rounds, torque the rear a little more, shoot 3 and so on until I see groups tighten up. Then mark the head of the rear screw with a sharpie and monitor.

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That sound like a really good approach! But what torque in front and with which stock? Are we talking snug hand tightening with a screw driver or T-handle allen wrench or just tight until screws stop turning and are firm against the stock?

this is all kinda new to me. I owned a second hand 700 BDL in '06 for 10 years until I recently sold it to get into another platform. It had only two large slotted screws. I took the stock off once to check it and lube the underside. Hand tightened and then just snugged well. Once a gunsmith did trigger work.

It always shot 150gr CoreLok or Nolser over 58.8 gr/imr4350 in 3/4in or less at 100yd. I have just never had issues like this with a stock or rifle. Like I said above the Boyd's product cracked in half under ever the mildest torque setting. I am now told by others that Boyds's has to be pillar bedded and epoxied properly to keep this from happen, screw torque notwithstanding.

I don't know...

re: my previous discussion:

@ Boyd's - "(my) stock wasdeveloped from a metal bottom component stock .." i.e., use bottom "metal" magazine frame, not plastic from LW Trophy Hunter


Perspective on my additions to this thread: someone who has worked successfully with all the same components as mine, but with the correct bottom -metal -
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