Yet ANOTHER Question- Boyd's Stock Compatibility

I sincerely hope I'm not wearing out my welcome here. All I'm trying to do is get my gun up and running-

Just purchased a used but looking brand new Boyds stock for 110 LA, heavy barrel. Couldn't wait to mount the gun in it. Upon trying to do so, I noted it wouldn't quite fit. Examining it, I see that the recoil lug is set back (toward the action), about the thickness of the recoil lug. I put some long nails through the mounting holes and the holes line up perfectly. I thought at first it was a problem with the stagger feed mag well.

Come to find out that the stock is for a center-feed action, and I have a stagger feed.

My question then is- can I dremel / route out the recoil lug area in the stock and not have any further problems (with the gun, not with me:wacko:) ? It seems the mag well will fit fine- will there be any issues other than the recoil lug area? Will I have to modify the mag-well area on the stock?

Just to be thorough- my gun is an early 90s 110 Long Action, Stagger feed blind mag / top loader, heavy barrel, 5.06" action bolt spacing, in .223 Rem. OH- and three screw trigger, side bolt release.

Thanks again all...not trying to be a PIA- it comes naturally! Got a great deal on the stock and if I can make it work I'd like to, BUT I DONT WANNA SCREW IT UP. That's how I got into a new stock to begin with (See my post "Now I Did It!")

Brian

The recoil lug area can be trimmed to fit but I would suggest bedding the recoil lug after you get it to fit correctly
Can't help too much on the stagger feed fitting, all mine are center feed
The side bolt release might be an issue, I have not worked with one of those so I can't help on that
Someone will chime in I am sure
Thanks
Jack

Thanks JW- hoping to get some more info- however, I think you are right. Trying to test fit the stock, I see there will probably be some "relief" or inletting needed at the side bolt release also. :confused:

I hope someone will chime in- lately I've had a lot of problems trying to get this gun up and running (shooting). Folks may be tired if being a "build mentor" to me!:abnormal:

ALSO- I called Boyds- the guy was nice and suggested I just get a new gun! GREAT idea BUT he'd crap if he knew how long I had to save to get this one! He wouldn't commit (and in retrospect I cant blame him) on wether inletting would be OK to fit the action.

Brian

I wish Savage would have left the centerfeed design on the shelf! They say it feeds better but I have never had issues with the staggerfeed myself and the centerfeed is a PIA to load.

I HEAR ya Bro! It certainly doesn't help when trying to order/buy aftermarket parts either!
Brian

Just measured a 110 center feed factory stock from the center of the rear action screw to the face of the recoil lug surface. 6.05". Measured the same distance from a 110 stagger feed factory stock from the center of the rear action screw to the face of the recoil lug surface. 6.05".

I think he has a J Series action. The "b...ard child" of savage actions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wbm

Just measured a 110 center feed factory stock from the center of the rear action screw to the face of the recoil lug surface. 6.05". Measured the same distance from a 110 stagger feed factory stock from the center of the rear action screw to the face of the recoil lug surface. 6.05".

I think he has a J Series action. The "b...ard child" of savage actions.

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God is often kind to wack-jobs like me! I remounted the Boyds in the gunvise and re-checked everything. Darned if now it doesn't seem that the stagger-feed mag well on the action is sitting just forward of the well cut out on the stock:confused:.

Put two nails up through the bottom of the stock and checked again. Holes match with receiver. Lug looks like sitting right up against it's recess in the stock! Mag well just forward of IT'S cut out. CAREFULLY removed wood from the front of the mag-well cut out and kept re-checking! HotDang! Everything dropped right in! Removed a touch more and made sure the recoil lug is tight against the stock's recess, rearward! OH YES INDEED!

Only problem with the front action bolt in the rifle bolt binds a little. 1/4 turn out and works fine. Should be able to space with a thin washer. Also the mag-spring and follower don't seem to have quite as much tension as before BUT she loads and ejects fine!

Halleluah! Or however you spell that! See, my birthday is tomorrow and once again I got a nice present from God! Not to mention EVERYONE on this board who helped! THANKS

Brian

Great news! It looks like you got the stock to work. Now check to see if the rear tang and barrel are free-floated in the stock. If not, see how it shoots without bedding the recoil lug and action. Then glass bed the action and recoil lug area to free-float the tang and barrel. You will usually see an improvement in accuracy with a stress free bedding job.

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Originally Posted by jpdown

Great news! It looks like you got the stock to work. Now check to see if the rear tang and barrel are free-floated in the stock. If not, see how it shoots without bedding the recoil lug and action. Then glass bed the action and recoil lug area to free-float the tang and barrel. You will usually see an improvement in accuracy with a stress free bedding job.

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Hey JP-checked everything; tang and barrel channel are free floated. Gonna shoot it first like you said, but I'd eventually like to do a bedding job. Thanks! Brian

The reason your front screw binds is because the screw holes in the stock are off. You have a stock for an action with a 4.40" screw spacing, and the screws on your action are spaced 4.522" for a mis-alignment of 0.122". Easiest solution is to install pillars and use a front pillar with the hole drilled slightly off center to move it forward as needed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrFurious

The reason your front screw binds is because the screw holes in the stock are off. You have a stock for an action with a 4.40" screw spacing, and the screws on your action are spaced 4.522" for a mis-alignment of 0.122". Easiest solution is to install pillars and use a front pillar with the hole drilled slightly off center to move it forward as needed.

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It was surmised that I had an intermediate action, but I do not. Don't have a digital caliper, but using a machinist scale and measuring the holes in my action and the Boyd's stock several times each, they are, again as close as I can get with a metal rule, 5 1/8". I guess the actual measurement is 5.1 something?

The screw wasn't binding- the bolt was. Using a magnifier and my tac light, I could see the front action screw/bolt slightly protruding into the chamber. (Also have corresponding scratches on my lug now too :black_eyed:) Just backing off about 1/4 turn freed the binding.

I think I confused the issue because I've been calling the action screws "bolts". FNG misuse of vernacular! In my previous world a screw had a pointy end ('jus like mah haid!).

Anyway- I do have a "standard" long action spacing.

I need to learn how to either grind this action screw slightly or get another slightly shorter screw. Any tips in doing this are welcome.

Thanks, as always! Brian

You can either grind off a couple of threads with a dremel tool, bench grinder or use a file
be sure to go slow to not create to much of a burr on the end of the threads
if you have a 1/4 28 die to chase the threads it would help
if not screw a 1/4 28 nut on the bolt before you start grinding ( if there are enough threads on the bolt), then back the nut off after grinding the threads off

another option would be to use a couple of small flat washers between the screw head and the stock- this might be the easiest option if you have the washers
Jack

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Silvercrow1

I need to learn how to either grind this action screw slightly or get another slightly shorter screw. Any tips in doing this are welcome.

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Brian, if you have a file or sandpaper, you can do this by hand. Here are a few different techniques:
- Clamp the action screw in a vice using some sacrificial wood blocks to keep from boogering up the screw, then use a file across the top to carefully shorten it just a bit.
- Put your file down on a wood surface and holding the screw, rub the screw against the file to shorten it.
- Put sandpaper on a piece of glass or metal. Rub the tip of the action screw against the sandpaper.

You can use power tools as well, if you have them.
- Using a grinding wheel or belt or disc sander (a 1" wide belt sander is my favorite) hold the bolt with your fingers and carefully place the tip against the sandpaper or grinding wheel. It will throw a lot of sparks and metal filings, so wear safety glasses. It will heat up quickly, so have a small bowl or cup of water nearby. Sand or grind for about 5 seconds, quench (dip) in water, repeat until you have taken enough material off. If you don't quench, you will heat up the bolt enough to make it burn your fingers, and if it gets too hot, you can also lose the temper of the steel. Don't push too hard against the sandpaper or grinding wheel. A light touch works just fine for this type of work.

You might want to mark your threads as well so you know when you have taken off enough.
It's not too hard, and once you do it the first time, you'll get the hang of it rather quickly.

Edit: I see that JW got his post typed first. He makes some good points as well. I didn't think of the Dremel tool. ...and yes, the washer might be the easiest way.

Cool. I was afraid if I did anything like grinding wheel or Dremel I'd "roll over" or burr the thread end. At work I have access to a grinding wheel and a die to cut threads. Hadn't thought of screwing a nut on there to begin with and then using it to re-establish the thread "start".

Once again your knowledge has saved me potential heartache and aches in other areas too...:frusty:

Just in case though...I read that Fastenal has compatible bolts, etc.? I was kicking around the idea of using stainless, or just having an extra set. Not being a metallurgist, I was reading last night (forget where) that stainless is softer than some carbon steels? Seems odd, but what do I know about that? These things interest me- love to learn new things.

OH! If I get a new set just to have, what is considered "better" - allen head or flat/slot...? Currently the bolts are phillips head, and when I torque 'em down I always feel like my driver is gonna give. I have a Wheeler FAT wrench- so maybe the Torx head type?

Thanks again guys. Unless theres a monsoon Monday, Ill be shootin that bad boy. Will also post pics. Can't wait!

Brian

Opinion:

If it were me, I would purchase either a hex or torx head stainless screws longer than you need and then cut them to length for each application. Make sure you have the right size and type driver or bit when you are at hunting camp or at the range in case you need to take the stock off.

I don't worry about the relative strength of stainless versus non-stainless steel. You are coming nowhere close to the torque values that would make that a factor.

When grinding or using a sanding belt on bolt ends, I shorten the bolt and then hold the bolt sideways and bevel the edge just a hair. The slight bevel takes the sharp edge off and eliminates the issue of threads rounding over.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thomae

Opinion:

If it were me, I would purchase either a hex or torx head stainless screws longer than you need and then cut them to length for each application. Make sure you have the right size and type driver or bit when you are at hunting camp or at the range in case you need to take the stock off.

I don't worry about the relative strength of stainless versus non-stainless steel. You are coming nowhere close to the torque values that would make that a factor.

When grinding or using a sanding belt on bolt ends, I shorten the bolt and then hold the bolt sideways and bevel the edge just a hair. The slight bevel takes the sharp edge off and eliminates the issue of threads rounding over.

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Again great info. and thanks. Will be working on it this weekend! Brian