Stevens 200 build - 308 or 223

Newbie here with a couple questions... I bought a Stevens 200 in .223 that I bought around 2 years ago as my first centerfire rifle. I probably put around 1000 rounds through it mostly just plinking cans and clays on my own 100 yard range (go there probably 5 weekends per year) and it has served me well in that regard. I have a friend out of state that I visit about 3 weekends per year and he just set up a range on his property with steel gongs every 100 yards out to 1000. Last time I was up there, I shot 300 yards with my bone stock Stevens and my friend brought his .308 10FP McMillan out for me to try and i got out to 600 yards with relative ease. To say the least, I am hooked and now want to have my own rifle that is capable of those longer ranges. I'm a college student with somewhat limited funds so this is going to be a budget build based off my Stevens action. I already ordered a SSS competition trigger, SSS bolt lift kit, and an SSS tactical bolt handle. Once these parts come in, I'm going to keep shooting, but eventually I will replace the plastic stock and will replace the barrel with an ER Shaw varmint countour from Midway. Now here is where I am stuck. Should I re-barrel with a .308 or stay with the .223? I know that if I go to the 308 I will need a new magazine box as well as a standard size front baffle and bolt face. That's not an issue. I guess my main concern here is the price of ammo, as I am not reloading. My friend said that if I stick with the 223 and want to get out to 600-800 yards I will need to use a 75-90 grain bullet, which will cost just as much, if not more as regular box of .308s. What would you guys do if you were in my shoes? Need some advice. The logical answer would be to get both, but right now its one or the other.

What do you really want to do with it? Here are some thoughts if you really want it as a long range plinker.

Since money is tight, here are some financial considerations that would concern me:

First of all, the .223 with 69 and heavier match bullets is good out to 600 yards and then some with a 1-in-9 or faster twist barrel.

If I were not competing, and just plinking, I would keep the .223 barrel and simply slow down, letting it cool between shots. (Cost savings due to not purchasing a new barrel, magazine, bolt face, etc....)

I would not switch calibers for the same reason.

I would skip the tactical bolt handle if money is an issue. (oops, I see you already purchased it.) I would only purchase items that would actually help me shoot more accurately. A lot of things are cool looking, but if money is tight, I'd rather have an uncool, but accurate, rifle.

Do you reload? If so, .223 reloading components are much less expensive than comparable .308 components.

So: from a strictly financial perspective, I'd stick with the .223 and spend your money on ammo and shooting it.

If you really want to change calibers, for a long range round that would also be good for long range plinking, target shooting and hunting, I'd certainly ask you to consider a 6.5 such as the .260 Remington (which is essentially a 6.5mm bullet (instead of a 7.62mm bullet) in a necked down .308 case). The cost to change would be exactly the same as if you changed to .308 Winchester (new barrel, bolt head and mag).

260 Remington Advantages: Relatively low recoil, great long range and hunting capability. If you reload, you get a more versatile round than the .308 for about the same price, or maybe a little bit less. I have nothing against the .308, and for 99 percent of what you would likely be doing, the two rounds would provide a functional equivalency. (in other words, there are differences, but you would be hard pressed to tell the difference in most real life situations.)

260 Remington Disadvantages: If you don't reload, harder to find factory loads sometimes, and factory ammo is likely more expensive than comparable .308 ammo.

That's my two cents. I hope my thoughts are useful.

Very informative response thomae. I will keep everything you said in mind.

I agree with Thomae. I will be purchasing a Stevens 200 in .223 here soon. I have an axis in 308 win. Since I have reloading equipment I will only need to purchase a couple things to reload .223 Remington. As you can see though if you compare prices you can buy and reload .223 rem for cheaper.

I would stick with the .223 Remington and build the gun the way you want. Then when you get a better cash flow move on to whatever you would like. If your only going out 8 weekends a year I would suggest taking any money you would spend to convert over to a different caliber and buy some reloading equipment. The money you would spend on the barrel would be more then enough for a simple set up.

Happy shooting
Rob

Keep your 223, and shoot 75gr Hornady Steel Match ammo...its easily sub-MOA @ 100yd in my Savage barrel and very easy to make hits out to 650yd with. <$25 per 50 rounds is good for a non-reloading college student's budget too.

After replacing the trigger, I'd probably get a quality optic & mounting system if you don't already have one before upgrading the stock.

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Originally Posted by BoilerUP

Keep your 223, and shoot 75gr Hornady Steel Match ammo...its easily sub-MOA @ 100yd in my Savage barrel and very easy to make hits out to 650yd with. <$25 per 50 rounds is good for a non-reloading college student's budget too.

After replacing the trigger, I'd probably get a quality optic & mounting system if you don't already have one before upgrading the stock.

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Thats definitely what I'm going to do. Pointless to have something that I can't afford to shoot in the long run. Now what would you recommend for a good budget (under 400-500) optic? I have heard great things about the SWFA SS for 300$, but I'm not sure if I like the idea of fixed 10 power, especially when shooting 100 yards. How about Falcon Meance or a WOTAC? I have a basic Redfield 3-9x40 scope on it now that is really nice but obviously has no range adjustment so I to have to guess my hold overs at distances beyond my zero. The rings and base are the ones that came with the rifle when I bought it. Should these be upgraded as well? Is a 20moa base necessary? All advice is welcome, as I said I'm relatively new to this and want to learn as much as possible about these items before I buy them.

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Originally Posted by Jeg181420

Thats definitely what I'm going to do. Pointless to have something that I can't afford to shoot in the long run. Now what would you recommend for a good budget (under 400-500) optic? I have heard great things about the SWFA SS for 300$, but I'm not sure if I like the idea of fixed 10 power, especially when shooting 100 yards. How about Falcon Meance or a WOTAC? I have a basic Redfield 3-9x40 scope on it now that is really nice but obviously has no range adjustment so I to have to guess my hold overs at distances beyond my zero. The rings and base are the ones that came with the rifle when I bought it. Should these be upgraded as well? Is a 20moa base necessary? All advice is welcome, as I said I'm relatively new to this and want to learn as much as possible about these items before I buy them.

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i would look at Vortex,give doug or neil a call at 212 753 5728

Camerlandny.com

After going through a ton of equipment the last couple years I found I prefer mil/mil optics, and there are many good "budget" options today.

Bushnell 3200 10x40 mil/mil ($200)
Weaver Grand Slam Tactical 3-10x40 mil/mil ($400, $300 when on sale @ Midway)
SWFA SS 12x42 or 16x42 mil/mil ($300 @ SWFA)
Vortex Viper HS 5-15x44 mil/mil ($500, $400 when on sale @ Midway)

I personally have the Weaver 3-10 and the Vortex 5-15, and both are great choices. I think the Vortex 5-15 at the $399 sale price is the very best 'budget' option out there, giving you mil/mil adjustments and a zero stop with the flexibility of variable power and a second focal plane reticle subtended @ 15x. The Vortex 5-15x resides on my 223 and I regularly shoot it @ 650yds. Wish I had ordered three when they initially were on sale...

I do think a 20MOA base is helpful for shooting a 223 600yd and beyond, and the Weaver Extended Slot 20MOA base is a great choice as is the EGW (EGW has some deals in their "bargain bin" right now too).

I also like Burris rings; XTR 30mm lows work great with the EGW or Weaver 20MOA base in my experience and Signature Zee rings with inserts are another very good option (I have the Weaver 3-10 in 1" medium Signature Zees).

When considering optics, you need to spend as much as you can afford on them. I have compared my Millet Buck Gold 6-25X56 to my Vortex Viper PST 6-24X50. The Vortex wins hands down in clarity at longer ranges as compared to that of the Millet. Both scopes track really well.

The joy of the Savage rifles is the fact you can change barrels. I think the .260 is a great idea. Just keep the .223 parts and switch back if you want to use the rifle as a .223. You can also go to many other calibers on the .308 case without having to change bolt heads. That of course would make you a Grand Master of the Brotherhood of the Barrel Nut. With bragging rights.

El Lobo

You didn't mention your setup in detail but...If it was me...

I'd upgrade the stock and optics if you haven't already... and add a CDI DBM...

I'd keep the .223 setup AND buy a .308 and a 300BLK barrel along with a set of mags, head space gauges and wrenches all settled into a nice rifle sized Pelican case for everything...

With just a few minutes of your time you'll have 3 different rifles in one...OR become a Barrel Nut and have a closet/safe full of Savages

SWFA is an AWESOME scope for the $$$$ dont settle for 10X...16x is just right...20X might be too much...Cant go wrong with EGW 20MOA Scope rail and Burris X-Treme Rings either...CHOATE Tactical is a fine budget stock too...its a SA so Bell and Carson is a choice too...

SWFA scopes are now available in mil/mil too...

To the above I recognize there are a couple fo other things involved too...a different bolt face and mags for instance..

The only shaw 223 barrel I saw on Midway is listed as a 14" twist. Definitely not fast enough for the heavy bullets you want to shot long range.

I didn't think I saw it anywhere but a decent prefit 223 barrel with a 1:8 or 1:7 shouldn't be that hard to come by over there pac-nor and shillen come to mind, no mag to change and bolt face etc The 223 can hold it's own out a long way with the right barrel and possibly decent stock, rest etc Wish pre-fits were as easy to come by down under.

Jeg, since you are not going to reload, i would choose the 308 because you have a larger selection of bullet weights available than the 223 in factory ammo.
maybe you should consider the hobby of reloading.

DDAB said it right...If your serious about shooting...you really need to consider reloading...

You might aught to look at used scopes. The Bushnell 4200 tactical, as well as the older 6500 2.5-16x42or50, The glass is good(not exceptional) tracking is spot on and they are bulletproof. The Vortex Viper's are plentiful. A used Sightron SII BS or SIII. I am not a fan but the nikon buckmaster mildot SF has a following and the glass is clear out to 300 +. I have seen a few monarchs out there lately as well.

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Originally Posted by devildogandboy

Jeg, since you are not going to reload, i would choose the 308 because you have a larger selection of bullet weights available than the 223 in factory ammo.
maybe you should consider the hobby of reloading.

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Yes. Eventually that is the plan once I'm done with school and have my own place with some room. How much would it cost to buy the basic equipment to get me started?