Picatinny rail

Any of y'all use a picatinny on your 110? There has been regular occasion where I change scopes on my rifles, depending on where & what I'm shooting at.
Is there an advantage to using a picatinny rail to play "musical scopes"? Or am I just as well off to continue using the rings since all my scopes are 1" diameter?

ALso, I noticed on my new(er) 30.06, the scope rings & bases are "Kwik Site". I can't recall seeing them listed in any catalog... or anywhere for that matter. They appear to be reasonably well built. After firing a few hundred rounds the scope hasn't moved or fallen off, etc. Anybody got any info on them?

I guess what I'm saying is, should they go in the spare parts cabinet in place of some Leupolds or Weavers or are they worthy of sitting atop a Savage rifle?

I always fix things that aren't broke!

Im with Jack on this one. Unless you indeed want to swap out optics (Day scope to night vision for example) and NEED detachable rings. What is "wrong" with what is on there? Besides, you dont NEED to change the base(s) to go with detachable rings IF the base(s) are weaver or picatinny style.

There is weight to the saying "if it isnt broke....." that said, there is some to consider; the cost, the asthetics,steel or alum. A pict. rail would be more versitile in mounting options (if you put a compact scope) and as said before, swtching optics frequently. I like the option of a 20 moa elevation rail. that is the one I have been eyeing-up, dont know what alloy to go with though.

Thanks guys. I get the "ain't broke, don't screw with it" thing. etc... My point being there's times when I shoot the 50 yd line with a 3 -9 x40 Leupold and then walk down to the 200 yd line and swap out to a Bushie 4 - 16 x 44 and so on. Just looking to make my shooting day a wee bit more pleasureable. And easier as I am inherently lazy. I bring 4 scopes with me when I visit my local range. If I have one or two of the grandkids I'll let them chose a scope for their shooting pleasure.

As I mentioned, just looking to make it simpler. Lining up & leveling off crosshairs on a wobbly bench with big knotholes and the guy next to you is shooting one of those funny looking black guns that make more noise behind them than in front.... Leveling off a reticle can be a challenge.
See where I'm going with this? ;)

I thought if I had rails it would be quicker / easier to do a scope swap. Or am I wrong as the only experience I have had with them is I looked at a package of them in a gun store....once. :o

Love em, Frank. If you're currently doing swaps anyway, a picatinny rail with good rings will make your shooting life easier. I like EGW rails and Burris Extreme rings.

I put them on as I update. They are not as fussy about short scope tubes, and modern scopes are getting shorter.

The picatinnay rail will give you more eye relief options the only draw back is if your change barrels you will have to remove the rail most models extend over the barrel nut.

Thanx for the input, guys. Having the ability to adjust eye relief is worth the effort & money. Especially when I take the grandkids shooting. Rails seem a little "pricey" but then, what isn't....

I reckon I'll have a look around & give one the 'ol college try. Worse case scenario... I go back to a set of rings ;)

Look at an MOA base. If you are going to upgrade, may as well give yourself a bit more adjustment at the same time.

Ya never know when ya might want to reach out there a bit.

Sean

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

I put them on as I update. They are not as fussy about short scope tubes, and modern scopes are getting shorter.

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+1!

Excellent ideas ;)!

Thanks, guys. Much appreciate the info.

I was already considering what Sean said about using an MOA base. Although I may not need it right away, it would be good to experiment & learn on.

Thanks again ;)

Frank in Fla

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Originally Posted by seanhagerty

Look at an MOA base. If you are going to upgrade, may as well give yourself a bit more adjustment at the same time.

Ya never know when ya might want to reach out there a bit.

Sean

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+1 on this. All of mine are 20 MOA's....

Except.., if you are SURE that you will never shoot farther than 400-500 yds, and/or your scopes have target turrets with 50-60" or more adjustment range, then you really don't need it. Also, be aware that using a 20 MOA rail will cause your scope to have to be adjusted "down" approx. 20" for a 100 yard zero, causing most scopes to be optically off center, which in theory degrades optical clarity and performance, etc.
In practice, however, I've never really noticed much difference, and any loss is more than offset by the benefit of having enough elevation adjustment to be able to "click" my corrections out to 600+yds, even with scopes that have minimal adjustment.

Even if you don't currently shoot longer ranges, be aware that the opportunity may arise at some point in the future. I was a 200 yd. max shooter for years, due to range limitations, and was content with that, and my rifles were set up accordingly. Then another range opened up a few years ago, with a 600 yd. max, and I couldn't resist the urge to try it; now I'm hooked, and my rifles are slowly being converted to being "600yd friendly". Just something to consider. :)

I put a 20 MOA on a .300WM and then had to shim some back out to get a 100 yrd zero.

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

I put a 20 MOA on a .300WM and then had to shim some back out to get a 100 yrd zero.

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What scope was that?

I went out yesterday with my new 20 MOA rail and new scope. I am a whole two and half inches from the bottom of my adjustments to get a 100yd zero. I don't use a 100yd zero for much of anything, except get a scope on paper to start.

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Originally Posted by seanhagerty

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blue Avenger

I put a 20 MOA on a .300WM and then had to shim some back out to get a 100 yrd zero.

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What scope was that?

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8x32 Burris Sig.

Many scopes have only 30 or 40" total elevation adjustment. If, say, you're using a scope with 40" total elevation, and with your current 0moa rings it is perfectly centered when zeroed at 100 yds(unlikely, but we'll go with it for illustration purposes). You have 20" of "up" and 20" of "down" available. If you remove those bases and replace them with a 20MOA base, and install the same scope, you will have to crank it all the way down to get zeroed at 100yds. But you will now have all 40" of "up" adjustment available for use, where you only had 20" before.

This is all fine and good as long as everything goes as it should, but unfortunately, 'ole Murphy often rears his ugly head in the form of slight machining variations of the receiver, base, and rings, not to mention the scope. If these various tolerances stack up against you, instead of canceling out or going in your favor, you may find yourself shimming your base to get back to zero. Also, the scope may have slightly more, or less, than its advertised adjustment range. And if you tried this with a scope with only 30" of adjustment, well, good luck. I have a Burris 6.5-20x50 with only 30" of advertised range, and I put a 20 MOA rail under it and got lucky; the scope actually had a little more adjustment than advertised, and I don't believe that the rail as installed is actually giving the full 20" at 100yds., so I ended up at the very bottom of the adjustment scale, leaving me still about 1.5" high at 100yds, which is what I wanted anyway because it gives me a 200yd. zero. But like I said, I just got lucky that the tolerances stacked in my favor.
All this is nothing to worry about really, just something to consider before you make your choice.

Thank you for that explanation. I never did the math and figured all the tolerances.

Sean