Resizing 223 brass I need some advice from some experienced reloaders

I was resizing 223 Remington range brass for my new criterion build. I did use a Go-Gage for head spacing so I know that part is right. My first piece of brass I resized. I chambered it the bolt just closed so I unscrewed the sizing die a little. The second one I did the bolt had a very slight drag to it when it closed. Is this the way it should be?
Thanks

what kind of dies and brass and how many times has it been fired?

Redding FL die, all remington brass, fired once

If they are full length sized, you should feel no drag on the bolt

thanks

make sure your lubing inside the case neck, you may be pulling the shoulder back out on your up stroke

For a bolt gun, I like to feel just a bit of bolt pressure as it fully engages. This is called partial sizing and it gives longer brass life and usually better accuracy. The brass just barely fits the chamber, so when the cartridge is fired the case cannot expand much. Not a lot of resizing will be needed either, so the brass isn't worked as hard.

I agree if you are shooting brass from your chamber, but if I'm shooting once fired brass from another chamber I like to start from a full length sized case. Dont guess it would hurt anything, just my preference

its best to f/l resize if from a different chamber .when i went from a savage 223 barrel to a mcgowen 223 barrel i tried to use my old rounds up had to force the bolt closed and open i ended up pulling all the heads and f/l resizing them now no problems.

I have a custom 30-06 that has a very tight chamber and I was having to use new brass, or once fired from that 30-06 in it or I had major feeding problems. I bought a small base full length sizing die and that solved the problem and now I can use cases fired in any 30-06 to reload for it. I personally like my ammo to feed with no drag on the bolt.

Cast you chamber, take some measurements and compare them to your reloading book.

My guess is its not reamed out deep enough, if you gave it 2-4 tho. head space.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=3...-CASTING-ALLOY

ramdiesel, Here's an idea that might work for you, assuming you don't have a comparator. Take a fired case (from your chamber) & slip a 9/32, 1/4" drive socket over the neck & measure with your calipers. Then set your die for desired shoulder set-back. I usually F/L size a second case & note the difference between the two measurements then use a set of automotive feeler gauges between the S/H & bottom of die to yield the shoulder set-back I want. Hope this makes sense. Note: The socket won't provide a measurement to the exact datum point of shoulder as a comparator should, but this method has worked for me for several cartridges using various sockets from my set. I also have a .223 comparator made from a barrel stub that was partially reamed w/ a chamber reamer for use as a HD SP gauge. Either method yields the same results on any of my .223 chambers.

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Originally Posted by lal357

its best to f/l resize if from a different chamber

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Absolutely! Since it is "range brass" it could easily have been fired from a 5.56x45 chamber and be substantially larger. Even different .223 chambers will vary some. F/L size it once and then go to the partial neck size routine.

Clarafication: I'd rather use a tangibile measurement than a percieved "feel". A solid bolt (REMY) will give a better "feel" than a jointed bolt (Savage). The "feel" is also variable with cleanliness of bolt lugs & lug shelf, as well as, type of lube & other factors. I put more faith in the tangibile measurement than the perceived "feel". JMHO

I've been trying to get my head around this. I have the Hornady .330 Headspace Gauge Bushing. My brass I resized measures 1.463. I haven’t measured one I’ve shot I put them all in the tumbler. Ok I went to SAAMI website they are showing headspace for a 223 as (min) 1.4636 (max) 1.4736. Now the cases I resized to (1.463) have a very very slight drag on the bolt when closing it. Is my head spacing to set to tight?

Thanks for every ones input.

Are you getting a bright ring near the extractor groove? You may have a tight chamber that would require a small base die that sizes the case back down to minimum base diameter.

If its a very slight drag, and the bolt closes fully, and your brass is trimmed to the correct length, and this doesn't cause you to gnash your teeth, then load some rounds up and go forth and shoot. You should be fine, and your brass won't stretch much if it's the shoulder that's causing the bolt drag.

If it bothers you, screw your die in (down) 1/16 of a turn, retighten the lock ring, and resize the same piece and try it again. Do this until the bolt stops dragging.

IMO, I don't mind a very slight bolt drag; this tells me that my case headspace is about perfect; assuming that there are no other issues such as swollen areas at the web, or the bullet ogive contacting the lands. Look for the bright ring as GaCop stated; if nothing's rubbing near the case head, this is probably just a matter of die adjustment.

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Originally Posted by GaCop

Are you getting a bright ring near the extractor groove?

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Yes I think so. The only problem is. It won't fully eject a shot case. I’ll just take the rifle apart and loosen it up a bit,from my measurements I’m at the minimum anyways

http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/a...y/IMG_2632.jpg

I may be mistaken but I think he meant on the case, just forward of the head on the outside wall of the case. This is where the case "web" ends and the sidewalls begin. The web is the thick part of the case head, like where the primer seats into.

Don't want to be a wet blanket here but, I never pick up or accept a piece of someone elses' brass. With a new barrel to work on, it would be just asking for trouble. 223 brass is not that expensive. Have 3 .223s and keep brass seperated for each one and started out with new brass for each piece. Just has seemed to help avoid a lot of problems since the first time mistake. My .02 Quick

The failure to eject could just be a worn extractor. Lots of Savages develop this problem. Replacing the extractor usually helps- it cured mine. Midway USA sells these; a cheap fix if it works.

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Originally Posted by barrel-nut

I may be mistaken but I think he meant on the case, just forward of the head on the outside wall of the case

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Oops I'll look when I get home in the morning. I'm at work

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Originally Posted by barrel-nut

The failure to eject could just be a worn extractor. Lots of Savages develop this problem.

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This is a brand new action & CBI barrel from Jim Briggs round count is 50

Mine was "born" that way too. Never did eject correctly, until I replaced the extractor. It would just pull the empty case out, and leave it in the action. Works nicely now though.

Ram, before you re-head space consider this.... Measure your HD SP gauge w/ your comparator. Take a couple readings 'til you're comfortable w/ the measurement. Next, measure at least three pieces of your fireformed brass the same way (make sure you have removed the primers to get a correct reading) If your HD SP is correct the two measurements should be identical. The fired case may be a half thou. smaller due to the case contracting slightly after firing. You can de-cap by removing the de-cap pin from your die & gently tapping out the primers. If the fired case & the go-gauge match you're good to go. :).........Judging by the brass smeared on your bolt face you could have high pressure or it got that way from testing sized brass for fit. Either way you could have bits of brass under the extractor lip or in the extractor grooves in the bolt head. Disassemble the extractor in a zip lock & clean everything thoroughly. Also test the ejector spring for smooth function & clean the chamber in case any brass debris has gotten in there. Adjust shoulder set back to .002" & forget about "feel" of bolt closing. Your Savage will love you ;D

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Originally Posted by barrel-nut

I may be mistaken but I think he meant on the case, just forward of the head on the outside wall of the case. This is where the case "web" ends and the sidewalls begin. The web is the thick part of the case head, like where the primer seats into.

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That's correct, the cartridge case.